Jeep Driver

NTK is a solid brand, worth a try. I have two NOS Mopar which are Seimens which are Renix...........won't touch those, too rare. If you're going to fiddle with one, I'd get the NTK.

Something tells me the OP is not using the correct washers.

Free gas? not so much. Someone drilled a hole in a pressurized gas line to steal gas.

I was intrigued right up to the point where you cut the frame for the header, then you lost me.

You get what you pay for. High quality aluminum wheels are not lightweight, mine are 40lbs each. Guys talk about finish wear and corrosion.........again, what you pay for. There are plenty of aftermarket wheels with 5" BS, shop around. Close enough to stock. If you are cheap and abusive, get steel. If you want quality, get aluminum, look to the high-end brands.

They will be more than happy to talk to you and answer any questions you may have. Yep, some people still take old fashioned phone calls.

http://www.harlandsharp.com/instructions/jeep ins.pdf http://www.harlandsharp.com/amc_jeep_olds.htm

Call Harlan Sharp. No need to shim, no need for custom push rods. No need for a bridge..........can't use one anyway. No need for VC modification.

Ask for one for a '98 XJ, the only difference is the mirror mount.........get a newer mirror.

Apparently we've been talking about two different things, MPI and PMI, and things have changed. http://www.fhahandbook.com/blog/do-fha-loans-require-pmi/

Back in the day.............

For those who do not put down at least 20% there is PMI or Personal Mortgage Insurance. PMI insures the lender that if the owner defaults the lender will be paid the amount of the loan in full. Generally 1% of the loan, in this case a $70K loan will be about $70 per month. Live in the house for a year, get new appraisal showing a value greater than 20% of loan, refinance or modify loan, PMI now goes away. A deal such as described here. Let's assume that this house in turn-key condition would appraise for $99K. You pick it up for $67K and have a loan of $70K. Over the course of 3-5 years you make improvements, clean up the yard, paint, new doors, new flooring, maybe build a detached garage....etc... Let's assume the housing market remains strong or strengthens, at the end of 5 years the house appraises for $120K with improvements. You sell at $115K. You enjoyed the house, you lived for free, all that has been invested is now returned, you are walking away with $45K you did not have to begin with. This is one of many ways that people acquire wealth. One of my wife's sons did exactly this and walked with $60K just last month. For a lot of people, if not most, a house is a ball and chain. You stated that the house was 'trashed' and sellers did not want to fix anything and would not discuss a deal and so forth.....look beyond them, it's just a box, look only at the box and the potential of the box. Someone posted- Do you really want a fixer upper for your first house? At 24 years old you are entitled to one thing- the opportunity to work your @$$ off, that's it, you are entitled to nothing else. Thursday my day began at 8AM, I worked three jobs in three different cities, drove 140 miles, day ended at 1AM, slept 5 hours, started all over again, at 53 I'm still working my @$$ off. I'm installing a new kitchen in an estate house that was built in 1920. You mentioned a hole in the wall, this is what I deal with all the time, holes ain't nothing.

Perspective- Here in rural TN and elsewhere...... If you OWN a 1/2 acre lot....septic, well, a couple of power poles, and someone to scrape a driveway and a flat spot.........those improvements alone may cost you $67K. Before you even think about building or dragging in a double-wide. I'm not suggesting that he buy the house, I don't know the area, I don't know the market, and I don't care what he does, matters not one lick to me, that said- OP states that he cannot rent in that area for under $1100 per month, after smoke clears, $71K loan with escrows and PMI will run him, I'm guessing, $635 per month, if he's going to stay in the area for 5 years, buying is a no-brainer. (with no money out of pocket) In the grand scheme, $67K ain't S--- Inspections, buyer's rep, attorneys.......it's nothing more than a small box on a decent sized lot, it's just a box, and it's either acceptable to him or it's not. He'll either find the conditions of the home and the loan acceptable or he'll walk at closing, it's that simple.

Traditional leather tri-fold. S--- is way too important for a rubber band.

Offer $1500 and be prepared to walk away.

The house looks pretty nice for $67,000 you need a mortgage broker not a realtor you can make the offer directly through their listing agent just have him or her write an offer contingent upon financing and from the looks of your credit score you will get financing

My mother was a realtor in the 70s and 80s, she let her license go when it came into conflict with her personal investing. We were flipping houses before flippers were flippers. We've been out of the business for 15 years, things have changed and any perspective I would have to offer would be from an insiders' POV that would conflict with common knowledge, IOWs, a really aggressive buyer's representative will do things to push a deal that most of you would think to be unethical. You don't need a realtor, if you want someone to hold your hand, even if they split the commission, that will cost you $2500. No one mentioned PMI, you will pay and that will cost you about $70 a month. At $67K, you say the house needs work, what work? It is more than likely no one will write a loan on that house in it's current state. There are ways around this but you need to know what you are doing. See Erie Insurance, they do not write coastal polices and will be cheaper than anyone else. Yes, you will have doc stamps and fees that can be rolled into the loan. Yes, mortgage company will insist on a title policy, appraisal, termite inspection, survey. Home inspections are a waste of time and money when dealing with homes/properties in this price range. And yes, they will likely send their own rep out for a drive-by with photos, they will know what they are lending money on. Look at the comps in the area, a $67K property in a $180K neighborhood will throw a red flag for sure. I'm going to give you two bits of strong advise- Never ever rely on or work with anyone willing to do anything for beer. Never ever live with a woman before you marry her........EVER! Ask around locally for a good mortgage broker who has and will work closely with first time buyers........ask about programs for first time buyers.

When buying cordless tools you are buying into a platform, the core of the platform is the battery.......this is the trap. One will not buy a Ridged drill then by a Makita circular saw then buy a Dewalt remodeling tool.....etc....... No one I know including myself will have multiple brands. One battery needs to fit everything, including the radio. Make sure the platform you buy into will offer everything you think you might need, not every platform does and not every platform is worth buying into. And wait till Pete buys a couple of batteries for his impact............if he thinks the tool is expensive.........

This is the trap. When building decks for example, instead of changing bits I'll run multiple drills and drivers, six of them and they require a slew of batteries. Then you'll have to decide which manufacturer produces the best and the most variety of 'bare' tools, circular saw, reciprocating saw, blower, jig saw, flash lights, right angle drill....etc...you'll find the 'remodeling tool' is a tool you cannot live without, otherwise known as the oscillating tool. Batteries are the trap.

I work solo 99% of the time, a 16" timber saw is available to me but I'd rarely have a use for one. Here I'm building another set of queen bunk beds. I've only owned three circular saws in my 34 years and I still have two of them ( all Makita), the smaller saw is at least 17 years old and it's well used, a testament to quality. When it comes to circular saws it's Makita or nothing. I have a Makita table saw that I bought new 22 years ago, I just replaced it with a Hitachi but I'll keep the Makita as a back up. The 10.25 is small enough to remain a one-handed saw and large enough to reach beyond the 7.25 and still make fairly precise cuts. Buy the tool, not the name, regardless of price.

When a real man needs a real saw.

Junk, don't do it. Find a 8.25

What's an 'idot'?

Happy new you to you too.

OK.