Jeep Driver

Fix your transfer case first. If you are going to regear the rear you'll have to match it in the front.

In the last couple of weekends I watched- Fast TImes at Ridgemont High Animal House Ferris Bueller's Day Off Upcoming will be Breakfast Club and Fight Club and I have most of the 007 movies.

You mean intolerable?

Strange.

He's referring to 97+ conversions.

Yep.

I think we may have to alter our vernacular.

Very nice.

And what you'll find on those sites is there there is nothing MJ specific listed even thought they list the MJ.

NItto is a quality. I'll have nothing else on the MJ.

Many years ago my mother bought a Corvette for status and 'investment'. The car sat covered in their garage for 11 years. When it came time to move and sell....they had to install a complete new braking system, new battery, new tires and a few other things. They lost about $5K on their 'investment'. Same applied to a speed boat and a couple of motorcycles they owned. I'm not suggesting you are buying for investment. What I am suggesting is- Buy what you want and be willing and able............then use the $#!& out of it. Or, don't buy it. If you are not 'willing and able' then buy a turnkey. The fun is in the hunt anyway.

Added myself.........again. :)

Nice.

Mark my words.......I've seen no prices, however- Stripped, bare bones - $40K Moderately equipped - $60K Fully equipped - $80K Few, very few will be bare bones, select dealers will get one so that it can be legally advertised as 'Starting at $40K'

That's not how any of this works.

They could have just been honest about the whole thing. Announcer stands center, J10 to the right and Wrangler to the left. Announcer states: pointing to the J10-- " We could have brought you one of these but instead we brought you this POS " now pointing to the Wrangler. And no J10 would have been harmed.

All I'll say is Nope! Ain't watching the homos at 1/2 time either. Wish I could say what needs to be said................

I paid $75 for mine about 3 years ago and I drove 6 hours round trip to get it. And I've got about 5 hours work in it. Like anything else, it's worth what it's worth to you.

One wire will have constant power. Use a test light, ground the test light at the pillar, test the power wire, if the test light illuminates, you have 12V at the pillar. Constant ground, make your own new constant ground at the pillar. Switched ground......activated at the head light switch or the door switches. Use ohm meter, switch ground wire should show continuity with door open or with head light switch in the dome light position. If not, you have a ground problem. Touch one lead to the wire and one lead to the new ground you are making at the pillar, needle of ohm meter will move from one extreme to the other, if not, no continuity at ground wire......no ground. Either way, if you have 12V at the pillar you can have manual light after making new ground at the pillar........then work on your door switches which you'll likely have to replace.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-5106wcc?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-timken&gclid=CjwKCAiAyrXiBRAjEiwATI95mZsFUpO7a55lNYr2KaS2RxBwpPdAGEbM198Rh-t71YXuiYLIvEomDhoC-hwQAvD_BwE For $20 you can replace the clutch bearing.......if you are swapping the engine........let it ride for a while. Why delete that which you will replace? For the trans, since you are keeping it 2W.........TH350 or go with the 700R4. Keep it simple. Assuming your are going SBC which is the only practical swap IMO. See KansasHogan.

You should have one power wire and two grounds. One ground switched at dash and doors the other is straight to ground for manual function at the light. You can test grounds with ohm meter. If you have power at the wire end you will get light. Get the ground figured out.

$1100 for a good looking, running, driving, car is an absolute no-brainer. Don't even know why you asked.

That's great.

Nice.