Jeep Driver

Image Not Found Worth the $85 shipped......yeah. At least I have assisted brakes now and I wondered if I had some vacuum leak down.......idles more smoothly or so it seems.

Image Not Found As I stated earlier in this thread I made up my own harness upgrade. I tried the Silverstars and was THOROUGHLY unimpressed so I returned them and got my $49 back. I ordered the Autopals as pictured above and I've fairly happy with them, at least now I have bulb options. I ordered the 55/100 bulbs and he sent me 90/100s which I have not used yet, the housings came with the 55/60 and I left them in. Ya I'd say they are worth the $45 shipped. The only thing I had to do was bend the tabs on the mount ring and drill new holes to get the housing to fit tightly.....no big deal.

Image Not Found Remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan on, remove pulley. You will see 4 bolts that attach pump to block. Two bolts that attach PS bracket to WP. Image Not Found Behind the belt here there is one long bolt that attached bracket to intake, behind the pump there is a short bolt that attaches bracket to intake. Loosen the PS pump, one bolt in front as shown, two bolts in rear of pump must be taken out to swing pump out of the way to get to the short bracket-to-intake bolt. I removed my bracket all together to clean and paint but I would imagine you can just loosen the bracket enough to pull the WP out and off the block. Image Not Found Image Not Found Know that these pumps come in both rotations, CW and CCW, This application calls for the XXX-1060.........not the 1070! Also note that some have the heater hose nipple incorporated into the housing of the pump and some require a 3/8NPT nipple that is not supplied, short nipple. I wire wheel and clean my mating surfaces and use Permatex2 for water applications.

Similar to what mine did.......fuel pump relay was bad.

I would mind buying that 4.56 from ya........got a D30 to go with it?

I just changed my yesterday........will post you some pics tomorrow.

Upgraded to the 105 amp alt today over the 74 amp. I chose one for the 88 Caprice V6, three differences. Need to re-clock to line up ground bolt hole to ground mount. Be careful not to strip bolt threads...ask how I know. Tap to 1/4 20 with new bolts. Need to drill 3/8 hole above the 12oclock bolt hole in mount bracket and loosen bracket at bracket pivot to allow enough drop to align ground mount hole to bolt hole in back of alt. Need to swap pulley. Otherwise it is similar enough. Image Not Found

One of my next projects is to make up my own CAI. It will exit the rad support for filter behind the grill.

http://tomasz.korwel.net/2006/12/19/rep ... l-engines/ This is for the 4.0 but the principles are the same for the 2.5

Double check your rotor cap or 'button' position. Could start from scratch and do the TDC method.........something must be off.

You have no idea how filthy this one was........but I usually get them pretty clean.

Original Gunk. I rinse with the engine running. Then follow up some cleaner from Dollar General.....Awesome....is the name and it really is $1 a bottle and works great, it's also real good for interior cloth. May need to pull the distributor cap and dry afterwards. I also use hot water to rinse.

I will only use the cork gaskets. I also use Permatex Ultra Black on both sides. I run a 1/8 bead down the center and I fill the bolt holes with the UB sealant, this way the bolts get 'set' with the sealant and will not back out once snug. I also wire wheel my bolt clean before installing or replace them with new bolts. I hand snug each bolt in patter until the sealant oozes and just before the gasket begins to compress. I also wire wheel all mating surfaces and clean with denatured alcohol. Where water is present I use Permatex #2. I refuse to use silicone anywhere, anytime, period! It may be that your engine is over pressurizing and forcing oil out. I would check your vent lines and air box.

Junk yard........by the dozens round here.

Yes that's what I was getting at. Glad you got it straightened out and running.

Well I ordered it earlier............we'll see.

http://tomasz.korwel.net/2006/12/19/rep ... l-engines/ If you look at pic 8 you will see other hole that look like knock-outs, the one to right of the button pin hole was open and I inserted the button pin in that one causing the no start.

I looked at an XJ last week with a 4.0 and among several other problems the distributor shaft was bent to the degree that you could actually see the cap wobble as it ran.......also made a clicking noise similar to what you describe, couldn't imagine what bent the shaft.......I passed. Just curious though......I have put the button in the wrong of three holes in a 4.0 dist and got a no start......could that be your case?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... RHYAMS____ I was considering the brake booster/master upgrade........however........ The only reason is a dead booster, hard pedal. So what's not to desire about the above deal.......two for one and no lines to adapt. Should I not expect an improvement?

Wow, looks nice. How much did the paint job set you back?

Interesting. I lose all pull above 2500rpm. Optimum for me is 2000rpm. My bottom end is real strong but 2500-3500 just seems to be nothing there.........I assume air flow which is my next project. Any ideas? Also can you expound on the A/F meter?

The last 89 XJ I had was a mix of AMC and Chrysler parts, this was an early year model. The 89 I had prior to that was all Chrysler. Don't know that I would assume anything in a 89 model.

A good automotive paint store will have the trim clips and blind nuts.........or Fastenal for the blind nuts. If it were me..........I'd spend the $227 at Safelite and have them install a new windshield with the seal you want and be done with it, beats screwing up a new paint job or gooobering it up with sealant.

Edit...............you were speaking to the output shaft.......sorry

Wow guys............ 5 colors 14g wire, 2 relays, 2 new lamp connectors, tape, heat shrink, solder........and 2 brain cells..........$40 and 4 hours make-up to install complete is all it cost me.