Jeep Driver

You need a stay at home wife. Better yet a well armed stay at home wife. I dump a mag in the back yard every once in a while just to make sure the locals don't forget who lives here.

I got mine at Advanced. It's the longer one without cruise control for the XJ. My plastic clip is broke too...........just hold it in place as you install the cluster.......it'll stay.

If you do find one from a 93-94 and up you will need to change the bearing plate for the throw-out bearing/internal/external slave. I find them all the time searching for XJs but dismiss so I can't remember off hand where.........seems to be a 2X XJ being parted in your area.......maybe AZ?. Check CL 500 miles out from you. Also you can get your rebuilt for about $600-650 but you have to pay shipping unless you travel. I suspect a shop pull/rebuild/reinstall will run about $1800.

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/2800086241.html

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003 ... /index.php Everything you need to know is here.

http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-37-16-spa ... ion-3.aspx This is the s--t of fan controllers.......but you pay for it. I did not seek out a Taurus fan because of the current draw............IIRC the start-up on high speed exceeds 50 amp. I had the same Hayden fan in my Ranger for about 8 years and I'm sorry I didn't remove it before I got rid of the truck, It would still be running in my MJ. As airspeed said make sure your set up is rated 50 amp or better. Cheap on the fan and expensive on the controller.......either way you're gonna pay for it.

Some feedback would be appreciated.

I've built a gun related site before and I realize it will take about 18 months to establish.....but please........use it while it's free and SPREAD THE WORD.

Also I need to build the 'parts' page. If you have a part and pic send to jeepmurphy@yahoo.com For example: Trans for 89 MJ 2w.........condition, city and state, pic, miles, direct contact. Short and simple on parts, just listing with pic and price.

txjeeptx your ad is here- http://jeepseekers.com/index.html go to buy/sell page and view. I'm looking for content so please if you have a Jeep for sale send me pics and description with DIRECT contact and I will produce it for you FREE. There is no other make specific auto ad site that I know......until now. I got tired of the idiots at CL.......won't pay the $100 for autotrader.com...........nor the $150 at sleezebay. The site just went live yesterday and it's ground-up so it will evolve over time. Eventually I will categorize by state...ie...click on GA and see ads for Georgia etc. I need 4-6 or more quality pic......no phone pics.......and concise description, phone # or email. No spam, no sharing, NO BS!!! Just bringing serious people together.

I actually wanted to start a thread on this subject. I find in disheartening that too many guys turn their trucks into what I call trailtrash (yeah I know I'll get a load of crap for that comment). But anyway...... Yeah restore it and keep it stock. As you know or may not know the Dakota and Ranger are out of production and the amount of trucks being scraped is amazing to me. The used midsized truck market is becoming scarce of good roadworthy older trucks. Also take a look at the new Obummer cafe standards going into effect 2014/15, some of the blame for the loss of midsized trucks. Bring it back.

BTW- Had the smart guy who somehow installed the nuts you can't' get too had.......... Next time use very very fine hobby wire......thread like wire........and wrap it around the end of the threaded end of the bolt and fish the bolt into the box of the frame through the holes of the frame and plate. Use lock nut on the bolt at head. Now you buzz on the nut with an impact........the bolt will NOT turn and you will have set and torqued that union without having to get to the head with a wrench or socket. Also had he done that you could have done the reverse and hit the nut with an impact and then fished out the bolt.

I assume there is no obvious hole to access the nuts? Box section of the frame? Cut off the end of a box wrench and weld to the side of the wrench handle to reach 'in behind' if you will. or Drill 7/8 holes in the backside of the frame to allow for a socket (or what ever diameter the socket is) or Grind off the heads of the bolts and fish the remnants (nut with bolt) out with a telescoping magnet. Just skinnin fish.

My parking circuit triggers my driving lights and my high beams trigger my bright driving lights and I have the ability to interrupt the triggers by switches on the dash (keeping the relays and hot wires close the lights and out from under the dash). Operating is a no brainer unless I feel the need to not use them. As for the cops............well.........I'll not say what I think.

TBI? It might.......worth a try.

http://kenjonestiresblog.com/blog/tract ... -tractors/

http://animoto.com/play/c69YW4fUpqzO6V7BCgWnCQ

Make your own slide show at Animoto.

Let me help you here. You get to drive donor, big plus to check parts. Swap axle, trans, TC, linkage. Rape for known good parts, alt, starter, battery, etc.......... Sell stack light grill only available to the Wagoneer........maybe $100-$150 Scrap body.......and your front axle and 2wd trans........weight........maybe $300 Sell good rear axle........check is Tracloc........maybe $100 By the time you get done your swap cost you maybe $200 or less.

http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/c ... 30897.html

If you have AC you cannot move the rad forward. So you took up an inch or more? between sheet metal and rad move? That's why I went the route I went, so I could offset the fan and clear the pump pulley.

How much did you pay them for nothing? just curious? 4X or 2X? With as many rotted out Jeeps in your area I would think it cheaper to buy a donor and pay someone to swap a known good trans.

Image Not Found It overcools with the 16" aftermarket. Don't really think it matters which one you choose it will overcool. The only consideration may be the current draw of the Taurus fan. I have it mounted with two aluminum plates because that is all I had at the time, when I find a big enough plate I'll remake the mount, it does draw evenly over the entire radiator though, works well.

BTW as you are finding out or will find out.........new parts for autos more than 20 years old are being phased out. I don't know if it's a matter of the market or a matter of it being purposeful by the PTB, maybe a little of both. We will have to work around this.

I don't 'try', I do. http://www.teamcherokee.com/Emissions/index.html #18 down the page. 2.5 or 4.0 is the same, the pigtail is different. The one I posted in my link will work also, you will need a pigtail. If you buy new the pigtail is about $24 IIRC so I point you to the JY for a Chrysler tail.