Jeep Driver

1990 was the last year for Renix. 1991 was the first year for the HO. So Chrysler continued for two years........Sorry, my mistake.

Use a ratchet strap if it needs to go left or right.

Nobody picked up that a 1990 is not Renix?

Ignition switch. http://comancheclub.com/topic/23310-ignition-switch-help/ If I read you correctly........ You state that you have no power or power fades when you turn ignition.....yes? no? Well.....if all checks out as you state............what is left? Edit: I don't have a 92 to look at.....so.......I'm guessing........ Power supply in from bat/alt should have a fused link to a breaker..........link or breaker is giving a weak supply giving you the illusion you have power but under load if fades. Just a guess. The PO threw some parts at it though didn't he? When you give up on it, just drop it off at my house. :P

I had a 71 Camaro that I fiberglassed the floor pans. 4-5 layers of glass........probably stronger than they ever were. Just a thought. At 19 years old, I brought this car home in pieces, literally in pieces, one piece at a time......every nut and bolt......built the engine too.

I live in the mountains. There is one incline that is measurable, 1.5 miles long, perfectly straight and even, at about 6%. When I first got my truck it would not manage that incline in 4th gear, no matter what speed I hit it at, I had to drop to 3rd and ream it out. After improvements, If I begin the incline at 45 in 4th it will maintain, if I hit it at 50, doesn't even whimper. Bear in mind I pull a 3000lbs trailer around during mowing season. You can dismiss the intake all you want........ Edit: I also went from 235-75-15s to 31s........significant increase in tire size for the 2.5. Edit again: As long as I maintain 70-80 on the interstate in 5th......very smooth and no lack of power, incline or not.

My understanding is that the AMC 2.5 started out as the GM Iron Duke........block should be compatible with bell housing. Edit: Further, I'm pointing in a direction- This is the extent that one goes to to get performance out of 30 year old 4cyl. Following the research provided......they go extensively into which blocks, cranks, heads...etc. I did not say this is your solution or end-all...........I said, look here........

http://ironduke7.tripod.com/IronDuke.htm

I bought mine about two years ago, the previous owner had just rebuilt the engine but reinstalled all the old sensors. It ran well but it didn't feel smooth and I could tell something just wasn't right, the first thing I did was to through the process of replacing all the sensors and sending units, TPS, CPS, IAT, coolant sensor in the intake, O2 sensor.........all of them..... Tuned it up also......plugs, wires, caps,,,,,,,,etc....... The single greatest gain was to grab some cold air and get rid of that POS air box, with the radiator out of the way........easy to do on the 2.5. And get rid of the catalytic converter...gotta go. I even went to an electric fan to get rid of the mechanical. Going through you electrical system is a MUST......all new cables and grounds....ect.......a MUST do! My engine runs smooth and quiet, at idle, I cannot hear it run nor feel it run........most of my hearing is shot anyway. Go to the Fiero performance sites.....S10 blocks and cranks.....flow through heads.....headers........ignitions.........all performance builds........but plan on spending $7K+++++ to get any kind of power out of your 2.5.

Huh?

The rear end in my Ranger went out at 37K miles, 1000 mile past the warranty. At the time I was afraid to tear into it, not to mention it was my only transportation. I took it to a speed shop in town that specialized in building racing differentials.........not cheap. Anyhow, the guy never mentioned anything about a 'break in' period........I drove the S--- out of it for another 210K miles and never even change the gear oil.

Yeah, I know. But it's what's available........that was well over a year ago and it still runs well.

My 2.5 runs fine. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Never heard of any of that.

I have the same problem, I use two clamps at each connection.

I guess no one watched the Myth Buster's tailgate test?

I've been scouring tail lights for about a year now, trying to come up with a solution. After I get my rear bumper done..... I'm considering making a fiberglass mold to make up filler panels for the rear lights. A panel that can be epoxied in and bondoed over, this way the body is not permanently altered. Looking possibly to the HH lights or something similar.

This? http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Interior-Transmission-Shifter-Boot.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=513&t_pt=3277&t_pn=cro53004433&utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=product&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gclid=CLaRus2Ej7sCFcTm7AodiA8Asg http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-XJ-Cherokee-MJ-Comanche-4sp-5sp-manual-trans-shift-boot-bezel-53000056-/200981905698?_trksid=p2054897.l4276 http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/-p-57395.html?gclid=CMTlodmFj7sCFaHm7AodKioABg http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Jeep-Inner-Shift-Boot-XJ-Cherokee-MJ-Comanche-YJ-Wrangler-Diesel-Gas-4cyl-/231075780400?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

Just scanning their site..........looks like you will spend about $250. Is that about what you figured?

$2.06 per twelve pack at Lowes, the same pack is about $6 at the AP stores. Cut the old plug off and use the protected female ends. If the plug is burnt........your switch is toast, see NAPA as the BWDs at the other stores do not last.

http://asheville.craigslist.org/pts/4169016175.html Sure would purty her up.

After much debate with self.....I may go with the Fey. Finally got around to making up the receiver/bumper brackets. Or may still make up my own bumper......don't know yet. Are you happy with yours? I like the chrome and that's the main reason I may go Fey. Jury is still out......got a week or so to think about it. Have you got any pics of yours from underneath? other angles? Summit has them shipped for $239 Image Not Found

Local shop here sells Exide. Once the battery has set on a shelf for 3 months they take the labels off and sell them as 'seconds', $65. Rated and tested at 1100 CCAs. Image Not Found

I've been driving for 32 years and I've never had a spare tire. In the wife's Jeep......yes......but I drive work trucks and I've never toted one around. As for the tank to tank transfer.......I'd keep things simple and use a manual switch to a transfer pump from the aux tank to the main tank, but that's just me. The body alone is worth what he's asking for it. The bed may even be worth it.

That may mount nicely at the spare tire location.......fuel neck behind a pull down tag like the old Impala........? Just a thought.