Jeep Driver

Look up the 2.5 for the 98-01 XJ at the dealer........I believe they are the same as 88. Should be current enough that they still stock.

The first Vance and Hines can I had on my Honda was a 'slip-on' exactly like the full system I put on shown here. The slip on I used on my Ranger (don't' have a pic of it) but it ran and sounded real nice. Muffler shop charged my $120 to run new pipe off the cat to the rear, can hung just before the bumper. If you know any of your bike buddies that have an extra slip-on.........works great.

If I ever get the extra cash.......... I want the Banks Torque Tubes. I talked to the local muffler shop already about running out straight pipe. Where the cat is now (was!) I want it to spit to duals to the bumper. Then I will bring it home and cut and weld in two cans just before the bumper and then tips out. It's only cash....scrape........scrape.........

Try it. http://www.sandersreproglass.com/glass.php Get a quote. Of coarse anything can be done but I speak in practical terms.......the guy is not likely to install a $300+ piece of custom glass in a $100 topper. And yes it need to be tempered.

You want solid advice? Find a good machine shop in your area....a competent one that you are comfortable with. Have your engine rebuilt. Will you save money buying crate? Probably not by the time you pay shipping and core and core shipping return.....then try to get warranty honored.......... Is your mechanic capable? competent? The only crate I'd buy is a factory crate.....assuming you are talking replacement and not specialty. This way you know the parts inside and what's been done to it. It also gives you a good week++ to clean up the engine bay and do other work that you'd likely not do if you swap only.

Tempered glass cannot be cut. Lexan I guess or you may find a replacement used.

Brakes on the dolly, it's the only way I would tow. Also, you'll have very little tongue weight with the dolly so you'll have very little braking at the rear. You may have great brakes on the truck but you'll lose traction before you lose brakes. When you see these 6000lb dually trucks pulling 10Klb 5th wheels.........the tandem trailer axles have brakes. When set up properly the trailer will do 70-80% of the braking. The trailer stops the truck.....the truck doesn't stop the trailer.

For those of us who live in the mountains 4x4 is a MUST have, not a luxury or toy item. Steep gravel drives and snow and mud etc....

http://bentframe4x4.proboards.com/index ... thread=132

My guess is your E-brake is hung up......not releasing.

Yeah I knew you'd like them. When I get the extra change I'll have them on mine too. I'll go with the HDs though as I have no lift. Same as I had on my Ranger.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8342

Don't think so.

How's the ride?

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mmid= ... vetype=4WD

B46-2126-H1 5100s with 1-2" lift rear BE3-6422-H0 standard height HD rear B46-1798-H1 standard height HD front Don't see a listing for 5100 non lift.

tap and die wouldn't grip?????? Drill the bolt out completely, tap the nut.

Drill out.........use easy out.....tap to clean threads. If that does not work......drill and tap.

2.5 takes 4 quarts.

Yes the cable runs through the rings. You could probably move the rings out from eachother an inch or so in both directions or add new rings further out thus taking up the slack. As another said.......you'll need to remove the seat and clean and lube then adjust cable as described. Edit: BTW don't release the slider without securing it to the truck......you'll be tempted to see if it works while out.

Since you have cad ability............ Design three plates. One is the main support plate, the other is the spacer plate (similar to what I have mocked-up), the third is the receiver cross tube end plates. The main plate is bolted to the cross tube plate and the stock bumper is bolted to the two plates using two of the same bolts. The buyer will need to weld his own receiver to the cross tube and weld the cross tube to the end plates. All you are selling is six plates. Easy to produce........easy to ship...........no manufacturing........no liability.

Two weeks ago a started a new job and I'll be 4-8 weeks with no income until commissions catch up, I'm not spending any money right now. At the same time I started the job I took the bumper off to mock-up new bumper and hitch, below are pics. I priced material, I found one supplier who will sell by the foot but does not have all the materials in stock for $89. All other suppliers want to sell only by the 20' length, $329. Here in E TN suppliers are far and few unlike back home in Tampa.

Hitch design takes advantage of the stock bumper. What will your design do for those without a stock bumper? Stock bumpers are no longer available from what I can find. Who wants a stock bumper anyway?

Thanks.

Any of you guys ever install one on the rear?