Jeep Driver

That's the first POS that goes to the trash of anything I drive.

Pull your plugs and examine them. One at a time of course.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_technovation-clutch-slave-cylinder-perfection-clutch_19340082-p?searchTerm=clutch+slave# View this pic...........bleeder.

Boy I sure wish I could find an aluminum cover.

There is a bleed valve on the slave. I got my master from Advanced last weekend, $50. Used one for a 94 XJ, metal and not plastic. Works fine. Slave is for a 97 Wrangler........same as XJ.....used one that I had.

Before anyone jumps my case......... Would I pay $800 for a rebuilt trans from a reputable trans rebulder? Sure I would. I have no interest whatsoever in rebuilding my trans. But I buy the package with a warranty and I install it myself. In my 30 years of driving many trucks/vans/cars no one has ever worked on mine but me short of an alignment. I want to know myself what's going on and what's inside my engines. My guess is yes. The rear main cap comes off to replace the rear seal and who knows what they did? could have scared your rear main.......could have losened all the main caps to drop the crank..........who knows? and they won't admit to it if they did screw something up. It was a 3-4 hour job (at home) with common tools and would have cost you about $50-60. Learn to do for yourself.

There! This! Never Never Never let someone else touch the internals of your engine...............EVER. Period. Had nothing to do with the 5-30.

I can't see any conection between the clutch and master change and the loss in oil pressure.

Mine is off a 94 and I'm only familiar with mine. I just swapped a 97 Wrangler slave on last weekend so I know there must be a spread of years with interchangable parts. Worst case is you'll need to find a bell from 94 up and swap out the bell and fork and TOB......possibly the slave too. How about posting pics and measurements. I have a bell and fork that I can pic and measure for you to compare.

The shrould directs or forces the pull of air through the raditator, otherwise the fan will pull air from around the fan itself thus losing the majority of it's efficiency.

Do you know what year it is?

Yeah, next time torque that b*@$£ down. Give it all you got and then some.

Yes. Shroud is a MUST HAVE.

Metal? How did you 'over torque'? What gasket? Pics? I 'snug' all pan and cover bolts........never 'torque'. I don't use rubber gaskets. I know the plastic covers use shoulder bolts and there is no way to damage the cover by torquing the bolts down as long as you use the correct gasket material.

Here.

Too close for me.

Now I understand what you want to accomplish. I looked into this some time back and I don't remember the details but..... Search around on the Fiero sites, they are building HP 2.5s using specific S10 blocks with HD mains and billet cranks. Custom ground roller cams, ported heads, headers....etc... also they are using flow through heads (intake on passenger side and exhaust on driver side). Yeah I know......GM 2.5 not the AMC 2.5 but the engine mount and trans and fly wheel should all interchange. Cost about $4K to twist 7200rpm. Everyone want's somthing for nothing........ain't the case with the 2.5. Best thing you can do is make up a CAI. If you really want it to breath port the head and go with the Banks Toruque Tube......run you about $900.

Go to ebay and search for TB for comache.........Won't let me post link here. $249

Yep, believe they changed in 91. There was a recent thread on this topic here somewhere. Swap yer axle I guess if you are serious enough.

Those are common parts at parts stores also. Got mine from a 98XJ......were just fine.

Good, now you can do a complete write up with pics. We'll all look forward to it.

These type of items are what I call 'pocket parts' at the local picknpull.

NAPA does the part# to length in inches conversion........they will help you find one.

You need linkage. Master and slave. Front axle.....with brakes. Front drive shaft. Grab the boot and shifter knob.......4x4 indicator at handle........grab the console. I'd rather have the whole XJ........offer him $500..........scrap it for $400. Save the extra bolts.....goodies.......starter..........alt.......etc.... You'll need to have a new rear drive shaft made.......no you won't find one.........no the XJ won't work.........yes 3" diameter.........no your old 2 piece (shaft in shaft) ain't worth having. Grab the metal valve cover. Radiator. Confirm your dif ratio..........XJ should have a 4.10 D30 and your D35 should be a 4.11

They can't be the same. The '84 - '90 2.5L engines used a variant of the Renix system -- the injection was throttle body but the ignition uses the same CPS as the Renix 4.0L. And the '91 and newer 2.5L engines use the Chrysler multi-port system and take the same CPS as the '91 and newer 4.0Ls. The arrangement of the trigger teeth on the flywheel is completely different. Yep, you got me on that and I should know better.