Jeep Driver

No and you really don't what the coolant to exchange any faster, it needs to stay in the rad long enough to cool. The thermostat is there to create a balance, it continually exchanges hot coolant for cool coolant. May be a bad stat. One way to make the flow constant yet restrained is to use a reducer plate instead of the stat.

They can be found. It's also a locale thing.

BTW I'm a huge fan of the 2.5 now. I'm seriously thinking of dropping the coin on the Banks torque tubes and a new exhaust. But I've got to get the truck painted first.

May be something like a 13mm 1.5 pitch. You can measure the depth at the block plus bell housing less 1/4" See my above post.

I just checked.........they must be metric because they won't take a 1/2" nut. But bolt is near 1/2" diameter but thread is off. HD will screw you over on cost per bolt anyway and I don't think they'll carry grade 8.

I think they are ASE not metric. Two different length IIRC. HD won't have them anyway........go to NAPA or Fastenal. I may have a couple in my bolt box.........will check tomorrow.

The benefit to me is to not drop the trans in the future if you have a hydraulic problem. Very much worth in IMO.

Harmonic balancer.........replace it.

If you can't find one through the dealer or NAPA email this guy, all he has is the two plug version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Throttle-Bo ... 54&vxp=mtr

No. Sound different of coarse but no whine as you describe.

Before it get's asked or before some thinks what I said is counter intuitive...... Why get it drivable before the lift? As the other poster stated that there is no way to get to 5.5" economically, just the adjustable lower control arms and track bar will cost you a quick $500. Wheels+tires, shocks, springs, TB, CAs, etc....odds and ends.........steering components....New rear DS....longer brake lines...... and you can quickly be into this for $2500-$3000. You asked about an economical swap???? Most of the Dana axles I've seen will be tagged at the dif cover, if not there is a bill-of-material number on the tube and that number can be ran at Dana's website.

There are some other local deals I was going to post but...... Look for a complete XJ as a donor, +-$600. This will give you trans, TC, front DS, linkage, and other goodies as well as front and rear axles. I would complete the swap and get it drivable then take the next step to a lift. Don't forget that the donor can be scrapped and you'll get most of your money back. Look for a donor with a non CAD front axle.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/3023773011.html

I got a mechanic buddy with a shop down the road, I stop in next week and see if he has a way to test the rpms.

My 4.0 to 2.5 tach has not been adjusted. Idle reads 450-500 when is should read 550-600. Not off by as much as everyone thinks. I live with it. Supposedly mine is adjustable, when I change the faces out to white I may adjust it then if I can find someone with a handheld tach.......if not screw it.

And vacuum lines and intake gasket.

Yeah you got another problem and it ain't your computer. Cruser54 continues to rant on about going through your wiring and sensors..............and falls to deaf ears. You need to go through your entire electric system and clean it up. In my opinion you cannot piece meal this........band-aid over band-aid over band-aid and you are wasting your time. Check all your wires, connections, grounds, sensors. Your TPS is there for a reason.

So I mentioned in another thread that I picked up some odds and ends at the JY a few weeks ago. I found a filthy but otherwise in excellent condition AMC valve cover. Two hours of cleaning, a little black and silver......good as new. I've been using Havoline 40w with Pure1 filters and after 31K miles she's still squeaky clean. I also began using about 20% Lucas (even the suggestion of such a thing got a couple of guys really pissed at me on another board) but I'll keep doing what I'm doing, the oil is still a dull gold after three months of daily driving. I've had a couple of discussions here regarding rubber gaskets, they SUCK. This one leaked from the beginning I'll bet. I'll stick to my favorite, Ultra Black. I ordered from Jeep what was supposed to be a vacuum kit for the 2.5 and it came as a 4.0 kit. A little heat will reform the line. The valve cover I removed was an aftermarket replacement, compared to the OEM if feel much lighter and thinner. I'm trying to bring here back one piece at a time when I can find it.

What's a spare tire?

Advanced carries it........longer of the two, 33" IIRC.

I'll be using base coat/clear coat on mine. Acrylic if you want cheap and easy. And boring.

If it were me.......I'd just go aftermarket.......for the sake of clearance. Cost is $140 for two plus wire and relays. I really like the soft-start or graduating controls but that is about $140 too. SPAL

Who made it?

This. :) I used a ratchet strap on mine to keep a slight amount of tension on the trans towards the engine....very slight. Then wiggle the trans in all directions until it falls into place. The pilot shaft is not finding the pilot bearing.

That's why they say to mark it, but I never had myself and never had a problem. Guess it's time for new joints.