relyt120

For the broken bolts you just need to drill through the studs and place new bolts of appropriate size though the holes, then either weld or otherwise attach those bolts' heads and reattach. its pretty straight forward and while the flares are off you may decide you like it better without them.

Awesome, love column shift. Those mirrors or huge!

I need to do it myself, gotta lift up my driver door to close it good. :rotfl2:

Are you going to swap the whole doors?? Is there anything wrong with the doors themselves or just the windows? if you are going to swap the doors be aware you may have hinge issues since the bolts are known to get stuck and strip also the part where the hinge is welded to the unibody is a known fail point that may be exacerbated by swapping the doors so you may have to repair that while you are there. There is a write up in the diy section on how to do it without welding.

So long as it is a 96 or lower Cherokee Dash and not a Grand cherokee dash then yes. The 98 and lower Cherokee dash is an exact fit for Comanches. 96 and lower

for 97+ dash you are going to have to make firewall modifications and swap basically everything over from the XJ, including the complete wiring harnesses and modify fuel tank and basically the whole motor/trans and the steering column..the list goes on. You can swap the fenders and header panel and bumper pretty easily but for the dash etc its a whole ordeal.

yes the dash from a Cherokee will swap, if the engine is the same between your MJ and the Donor XJ you can swap just about anything under the hood, assuming the same trans too.

At first I thought you were asking if you can powder coat your firearms :rotf:

Changing the dash out is actually pretty easy. If you can find a replacement I would recommend it as your best option. Otherwise you will only be able to cover up whats wrong with it.

:eek: I'm pulling for you on that rust battle. Looks like you have the perseverance to put up a good fight. That paint looks really good too, what are you using?

I've got a spare bench in my garage if you need a replacement cover...PM if you want pics or anything

Don't be surprised if you find some holes in the floor pan. Go in assuming its going to be rust city and if its not you will be pleasantly surprised. :D Its all up to you what you do on the floor A lot of guys use POR15 then either topcoat or used bed liner, which is better than nothing for sound reduction. There was also a vinyl mat for the lower optioned trucks which has its own appeal but has the same juke backing, but won't allow anything to soak through from the top. Many have also added sound deadening and/or insulating materials under the carpet to reduce road noise. IMO if your carpet is in decent shape keep it. If its trash then ditch it, repair and rust proof the floor then bed line it. If you end up not liking the bed lining you can buy new carpet or a vinyl mat to put over it. Check out some of the build threads in the Projects section, everyone does it a little different. Others will chime in. GL . :MJ 1: .

good point, He should be able to cut the window in the Tach and put a small hole in the bottom for the cable and the PRND3L swaps right in. Nice Truck! :thumbsup:

The orings for the regulator are the same as the ones for the fuel injectors. Advanced auto parts part no. 274573 That's for the fuel rail side...for the fuel line to the regulator side the part can be found here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8X56RA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 a little pricey but the FSM says they have to be changed every time you remove it...though I have reused them before so long as everything goes back in place okay. EDIT: Sorry those parts are for Renix, not sure if its the same for HO. My bad.

:thumbsup: Nice looking Truck! Put the details of it in your signature when you get a chance( engine, year, model, trans etc) Welcome :waving:

:waving: Welcome! Put your location in your profile and I'm sure someone near you will have an MJ for sale You should go with the 4.0l if possible, better to have a little more power than you need than too little. Also for me at least 4.0l parts are way easier to get your hands on. If you have any degree of traffic in your area i would recommend the AW4; traffic with a manual is not fun! If you are looking for high weight capacity look for a Metric Tonne truck which has beefier springs and better rear axle If you are not going off road or in snow then you don't really require 4x4 but once again better to have and not need than need and not have. If you want a short bed exclude 86's from your search...they were all long beds. The 97+ front clip swap is really easy, basically bolt on so you should have no problems there. Good luck with your search! . :MJ 2: .

the horn relay is attached to the left of the fuse panel, sounds like the culprit. I had a similar issue on my manual truck and the horn would randomly go off, just pull the relay for now if the horn doesn't work anyway.

should fit fine, not sure about if it needs to be a 4.0, i would assume no but someone else will chime in

if you are just swapping the fuse box then you can even use one from an XJ

Looks really good :thumbsup:

I wrote an simple recursive algorithm to determine how much to charge for an item to make a certain amount of money given the 10% final value fee and the paypal fees. Makes it easy to determine if flipping a JY part on Ebay is worth it.

Got the tires balanced and rotated. Look like its time for a new set, probably put that off until next oil change. Still getting a little bit of shake at high speed but its so much more drive-able than before. Will be replacing the control arm bushings and the last couple TRE's I didn't replace last time.

True - you could even get LWB Elims in 91/92. Forgot about that............ I think this one is an '89 Probably local sale

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-ELIMINATOR-/281725121975?forcerrptr=true&hash=item41982035b7&item=281725121975 Buy it now 6500, I think it is worth it. ~MINTY~

:yeah that: