87MJTIM

I also notice the grills. Moldings and decals were offered every year, depending on the model.

Watched this on youtube.

On mine, yes the wires are there. However, I tried to install a second horn from an XJ (passenger side) and the wires were too short. I have not worked on it to correct the problem, yet.

watching

Could be the front bearing cover not sealed properly. When you were driving home with it, was it full of fluid? Now that it is full, the leak is obvious. That would mean dropping the trans and resealing the cover.

It's on the firewall just to the right and below the blower.

If you're up this way (MD), I have two AW4s looking for good homes. From an 87 and a 93. ( I have not seen either operate. POs informed me the trans worked. I make no guarantees.)

7 lbs 8 oz 9/10 5:30 PM 17.5"

Thanks. However, you did not drag the BOLD over far enough "or at least buzzes."

It won't stop you from doing any of the things I mentioned. It may/will make you look why the buzzer is going off.

That's the delay option. There should be a buzzer chime module on the fuse box. The buzzer goes off if: 1) you leave your lights on when you turn off the engine, 2) you have not buckled your seat belt, or 3) you left your keys in the ignition switch when you open the door.

You should check or change the buzzer chime module on the fuse box. It’s either brown or blue

Did you ever see the movie “Alien”? just asking.

The REM takes the temp from the CTS. The gauge take the temp from the sensor on the back of the head. They're not connected. The REM gives the reading of 190 - 198*. It will fluctuate depending on outside temps and how fast I'm moving.

Does indicate the O2 sensor is bad?

I have the same issues that Bum has. My REM will switch to closed loop after about 2-3 minutes of operating. It will then switch back to open and remain in OL. I have on the display: Eng Temp, O2 v, heater relay v and Open/closed Loop. (mostly open.) My eng temp is consistently 190* +/- Relay volts are consistent 12.5 v +/- O2 v starts out at 4.98. As the engine warms up, the volts drop. Once it reaches operating temp (190*) it runs at 2.0 to 2.3. Occasionally, it will drop below 2.0. The Renix ecu is supposed to run in open loop until the O2 heater reaches operating temp (~1200*). If the O2 sensors are "operating" as their supposed to, then why does to switch to open loop? The O2 is relatively new: ~1 yr. I installed NTK/NGK sensor.

What Don said. It's like watching the same movie preview with caption "coming soon."

Since a manual did not have a TCM, you will need the one from the XJ. Forget about the tcase since you are 2wd. You will need the drive shaft length adjusted. I believe the manual and auto trans are diff lengths.

Here you go

I have found that leaving the windows open .25" to .5" lets the hot air vent out. Also, a sun shade helps.

PM sent

89 for 89 is a direct swap. Just pull one engine for the other. P-N-P.

What year is the XJ? Yours is (probably) a Renix engine. 91+ XJs have HO engines. The engines will swap over, but you will/may need to swap all the electronics from the XJ. Fill in your profile so others know what you have.

Funny story. My wife and I purchased a used 2003 Chevy Sub 2500. I did not come with the owner's manual. The radio has the "self adjusting volume." As the speed increased, the radio volume gets louder. We found this to be very ANNOYING, especially for people in the back when we tried to have a conversation. I would turn down the volume as I sped up, then increase the volume when I slowed down. One day I was complaining about this with my daughter in the truck. She looked at the radio and asked "What does this button do?" She pressed it. Problem solved!

Yes. Lots of owners have done it. Is yours 4wd? If so, you will need a transmission with a 21 spline output shaft. Later models (90+?) have 23 splines. These won’t fit your t-case. If you get an XJ auto you could swap all the necessary parts