DirtyComanche

Knock sensor.

Oil capacity isn't quite that much, I think count on 2 quarts each but you'll probably not need quite all of it. Fill until it's coming out the hole. XJ/MJ front axles take all the same bushings. I believed 2wd/4wd to be the same, but oddly there is different listings for them from some manufacturers. There's a link to the factory parts catalog in the write ups subforum, you could check it if you want to be sure.

If you broke a pane I believe it's toast... I tried to get one repaired years ago and you couldn't get the pieces, and apparently they aren't meant to be taken apart.

I'm not the OP, but I have rewired three vehicles from scratch without buying an aftermarket harness of any sort. I'm thinking I would never do it again. The first one was very bare bones. The second was more elaborate. The third was about the same. The main thing is I wound up with a lot more money and time into it than I would have liked. The Painless type harnesses suddenly look like a decent deal. Once you start trying to find pins for all the weird OEM connectors it just gets painful and expensive. Not to mention a lot of the stuff that's available is crap. On my current XJ I cut the main underhood harness down and rerouted it to on the firewall (where it should have been from the factory, IMHO) and even that was quite a few hours (but very little money) into it. For an XJ/MJ with the Renix setup I'd pull a harness from the junkyard and clean it up/cut it down before I'd dare make one. There is not that many extra things on it. My XJ is more of a trail rig, but it's retaining street legality and many of the features, there really just isn't that much wire you can cut out at that point. You actually do need all of that stuff. BTW, the factory wrapped the soldered splices with duct tape. And the 4L Renix harness has two generations, at least that I've seen. 87 to mid-89 and mid-89 to 90. They use different connectors, and you can swap them in their entirety, but you can't mix and match them. I am not sure if all of the early ones have the C101 connector on the engine harness, I want to say the early 89 stuff will not have it despite not being interchangeable with the mid-89 to 90 stuff.

Interesting, and good news. Keep us updated on it long term. Although, if it's working correctly now, it will probably work correctly forever.

No, it's a way smaller o-ring than that. My notes say the size is a -903, but that won't mean anything to most people. A hydraulic shop should know what that means, tell them it's for a hydraulic application that sees abuse. There's a GM P/N 26001594 that I believe to be correct. Rockauto lists a 10 pack for about $3 US (might be the price for one but you have to buy a box of 10?), so I'm thinking they are the ones.

Run a good synthetic oil, or a diesel synthetic (such as Shell Rotella T6, not my first choice but some people swear by them) and just let it do its job. It will slowly remove whatever might be deposited in the engine. You do not want to add something to it that will suddenly cause all of the stuff that is stuck to things to come off, as that might cause the oil filter to plug, and either starve the engine, or have it bypass which will force contamination into the clean side of the oil system. They make oil filter cutters specifically for the job. They're kinda like a pipe cutter. Normally not a lot of money. Try an auto parts store or Speedway/Summit/Jegs.

They come with self tapper but i would drill thru and use lock washer here is the model # best price Amazon AIR LIFT 59503 Ride Control Rear Air Spring Kit Interesting. I would probably destroy them when my axle droops out, or so I'm guessing. But they would be kinda nice if I used air switches for in cab control, I've already got the compressor.

At this point I'd say ball joints most likely. Wheel bearing maybe. Tire/wheel or shock issue is also possible. And there's a good chance both your tranny and motor mounts are worn/torn/smooshed, not that it's likely giving you the vibration during braking. And Don's method of checking ball joints is good. 2x4 or a big pry bar. You gotta really put some effort into them to feel them. If the boots are torn, they look dry, there's rusty powder streaking out of them, etc, just change them.

I wouldn't drain the oil out and put it back in. It's asking for trouble. Change the filter a couple times instead, if you're worried about it. The oil is going through it and it will catch whatever is in it. You can cut the filter open and take a look at it if you're curious or worried about what might be in it. IMHO once oil goes in the drain bucket it's only good for the furnace.

-The ZJ tie rod ends will bolt in. Make sure you get the threaded adjuster coupler for them too as it is not the same as the original MJ/XJ stuff. -Either steering stabilizer should work, the Monroe lists XJ/MJ/ZJ/YJ/TJ as all being interchangeable. I used an OEM TJ one. -Yes, 5x4.5. Watch out for slight differences in hub diameters, some OEM wheels (IE, Ford) will not necessarily go over the hub. Aftermarket ones are normally fine. -If you're planning on using it in the Peugeot, 75w90 is fine or Redline MT-90 seems to be the preferred flavour. Some guys put motor oil in them, 10w-30 or 20w-50, I wouldn't. Axles will take 75w-90, however it is suggested that for severe use that 80w-140 or 75w-140 synthetic be used in the rear axle. I use Lucas 75w-140 synthetic in both axles personally, because I get it cheap and it does seem to perform well.

I know what you mean, I had to absolutely butcher the floor to do it on my XJ.

Are you going to put an X in the interior/seatbelt cage, or not worry about it since it's more or less only for the belts? And are you going to do some frame tie-ins for where it's bolted to the floor, or again leave it be? Long arms are looking good. :thumbsup:

That's great! And the truck is looking really good. What's next for it?

Welcome :waving: Post up more pictures when you pick 'er up. Looks real nice from this side, so I'm curious how bad the hit is.

On pulling that pump, hose down the lock ring with WD-40 or whatever your favorite rusty lube is first, and really hose it down. If it won't budge with a big flathead screwdriver and hammer, you can peel the tabs it locks into back with a cold chisel/screwdriver and hammer, since I'm assuming the tank is pretty much junk anyways. Once you peel them back a bit the ring will move easily with the same screwdriver and hammer. Get a new lock ring for when you swap it over to your tank, and put the lock ring in with grease on it so it will slide in easily and not get seized for next time. Should be a 5 or 10 minute job under the truck...

There is supposed to be a bushing for the clutch master cylinder pushrod. There's also supposed to be one in the pivot up top. If either of them are missing it will make the assembly loose and you may not get enough throw to disengage the clutch. The clutch master cylinder pushrod is not normally adjustable.

Found it. Dorman 603-001. Looks like it works perfect. I'm going to order one (or a couple) since I hate the bottle I have and my early 2.5L XJ bottle has been backordered for months.

It's most likely from the stud end of the sway bar link punching through it. The truck was not bumpstopped correctly and had extended swaybar links, or was jumped. You're making a ton of progress on this. Lots of a new parts. Couple questions. What is the coolant overflow bottle from? And what are you painting on for rust proofing in the cab?

What airbags are you going with and how are you mounting them? I'm kinda tossing around the idea that they might be something I want some day, but I'm not sure.

That looks a little vulnerable down there.

Well, that explains what those holes are for. I never knew.

There was a factory no bumper location?

You linked the 97-01 versions. Can you use them? What's the difference?The late model ones 'push in' as the apparatus is not removeable. Early models you could unscrew the whole assy. But the stop can still be removed.I use prothane bumps. So can you install the later style bumps into the earlier unscrewable type stops? Some of this stuff is a little hard to source in Canada for a decent price, and I can get the later style ones a lot cheaper. Do you like the Prothane progressive bumps? I'd debated trying to find a Timbren product that would work, or some other progressive products and adapting it.

How many people that don't do their own work and want a 29 year old somewhat obscure pickup truck? None of the people I know that would be interested would want to spend a lot of money. I don't think a full repaint will net any more money than buffing that. But that's me. If I owned that truck I would buff it and touch it up, then decide if I was happy with it or not. And I'd probably be happy, because it would be good enough, and short of really going at it and doing a proper full repaint I doubt it would be much better.