DirtyComanche

Is it just me or is that gas meter dangerously exposed there? Or is that nowhere near your driveway/street? I'd have run it over if it was in my yard.

If you just want a battery that works, go with whoever has the best warranty and the most reasonable price... Which I think means Costco. (No, I don't buy batteries there, but I should) Batteries are one of the most rebranded products out there. There's really only a handful of big manufacturers.

If it doesn't clear, grind the flange on the header. It's just a bit wider on the HO than the Renix, IIRC, and there is probably some variations in construction of them over the years and OEM vs aftermarket. Walker makes a downpipe for the HO. It isn't very inexpensive ($40ish US), but I can't say if it is of decent quality or not but it looks like it doesn't have the clearance dent. With that downpipe you should be able to just throw the O2 sensor in it, but I would confirm that with somebody who has done it as the wires might not be long enough. If you have one made without the dent be damn certain the yoke on the front axle won't eat it if the suspension is on the bumpstops; I could show you what the one in my MJ looks like from just that happening when the PO swapped a real front axle in... Walker downpipe: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=135706&cc=1180112&jsn=2160

Pop the belt off and run it again. Doesn't take long to do and will rule out a bad idler or such. The idlers do well blow their bearings up eventually. IMHO it's folly to pull a harmonic balancer to do a timing chain and not replace the balancer... But that's me.

I'm going to say ditto on it being unlikely the online inventory will be correct. The local yard I deal with is not a u-pull-it type operation, yet they will let some people go in and pull some things. I'm on a good enough basis there that I'm one of those special people, but you're only pulling small stuff with hand tools, nothing like an axle/engine/trans. Anyways, even with all the big parts only being pulled by their own yard people their inventory is completely screwed. I was looking for a D70 rear from an 01.5-02 Dodge 2500 (rather specific) and inventory showed they had three, so the owner gave me the ID/location of all of them and off I went to look. Not one of those trucks still had the rear axle in it, in fact one of them was cut clean off behind the cab. I wandered back in to tell him that and he mumbled something not suitable for young ears, then said "I gotta go give my yard guys $#!&. Give me a minute." Same thing happened when I phoned for a Ford HP D60, I said 3.55 gears because I was going to regear it anyways and they just wanted a ratio for the yard guys, inventory showed two, neither were there, so he wound up giving me a 4.10 one at half price after they spent a whole day looking for a 3.55 one.

If it won't fire or start with starting fluid you need to verify if your ignition system is working. Pull a spark plug and check, or stick an extension in the boot, etc. I know nothing about that engine, but it's troubleshooting 101. If you're providing it with fuel (starting fluid) and it won't fire, then there is a problem with the other two things you need (air or spark). I also imagine that you might have stuck injectors, which would explain the pump continuing to run, and the lack of willingness to start (too rich to fire). But probably not. Or you didn't give it enough starting fluid, and the fuel pump or regulating system has $#!& the proverbial bed. There should be a schrader for a fuel pressure test gauge somewhere, but again, I don't know.

Looks pretty nifty. A guy would pay a fortune to have that done up here. Why the black center console lid? Just to match the tray insert in the console?

If it was in an XJ it probably came out of a regular Explorer. Verify this. The Ranger/Sport-Trac axle is the same width but uses 27 or 28 spline axles (I don't remember specifically, but they're junk) and almost certainly had drum brakes. Ask the owner to give you the companion flange off his driveshaft, along with the 12 point bolts that mate it to the pinion flange... It will save you money. The correct type of spacers will not require new studs as they bolt to the current set of studs, then your wheel is bolted to the set in them. Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/cobrandcard/marketing.html/ref=cbcc_pb_547314662_m?pr=con321&inc=50gc&ts=7u1o8ipnq4l75016sxy6f8v8r5sblzt&dasin=B0035HIEN0&plattr=math&place=priceblock&imp=A2QQD6IP2MNX79

You can buy the control arms new from the aftermarket for not a lot of money. They are considered a wear part because the bushings are so time consuming to replace. Moog: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3983961&cc=1381452&jsn=390 Something like $30/each. (I didn't feel like switching the pricing on the site, I have it in cnd so it's a bit of a guess on the conversion). Mevotech: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6115977&cc=1381452&jsn=398 $40/each, obviously a better product. There is Mopar ones available too, but they're unreasonably priced at about $120/each. I'd probably buy the Mevotech before fighting a set out of the junkyard that already have a couple hundred thousand on them.

Go look in a junkyard if you have time, I think you'll find the later ones are a bit thicker. I don't know what wheel you have now, but there's some variations over the years.

It's a GM steering column, so basically any aftermarket wheel meant for a pre-airbag GM column will fit. I'd look for another Jeep wheel personally.

Why? Seems rather inconvenient.

Lots of guys here have done the swap, just not everyone chimes in. IMHO it makes more financial sense to use the HO intake and TB than having the Renix one bored out, assuming you have access to HO parts for cheap. Since you've got a WJ to steal stuff off of, I'd use that intake and throttle body. The only real hurdle of using the HO TB is adapting the Renix TPS to it, which is really just some fiddling around and finding the correct bolts. Will it make much more power than the Renix one? Probably not much, but the design is at least theoretically better. There is some other complications with using that later intake, IIRC, as the fuel rail was quite different due to them going to a returnless setup in those years (fuel pressure regulator is in the pump). You can also go to the MAP sensor that is on the throttle body with the later setup, which IMHO is a cleaner and more reliable install; there is a writeup or thread on this here somewhere (probably started by Hornbrod, I know he uses that setup). The HO throttle body also uses a much more normal air intake, so if you want to build your own intake, switch to a different filter/box setup, or get an aftermarket intake it's much easier to find one that will fit. Also, the Renix intake WILL interfere with some of the aftermarket headers, as the Renix intake is very low and upturns the runners before going into the head. The whole reason I wound up going to the HO intake was that the header I had would never have come close to clearing the Renix intake. The factory HO header will not interfere with the Renix intake like that, it just might need some grinding on the flange like I mentioned earlier. I don't know if that power steering pump is worth using, or any different than the Renix one. Most likely it's more or less exactly the same, except it might have holes in the pulley to make accessing the bolts easier. In which case either use it or throw it on the shelf as a spare. I should have specified I used the V8 WJ pump as it was factory ported for use with the hydraulic cooling fan setup they had, so it's a great pump if you've got hydro assist steering; however the pulley offset is different between it and the typical XJ 4L stuff so you either have to swap the pulleys or mill the bracket down.

I'm not sure with the later intake as the throttle body might be different than the earlier HO one? I have pictures of how I put the Renix stuff on my earlier HO intake, I'd just have to dig them up. It's fairly simple, most of the sensors just swap over to their news holes, the throttle cable has to be changed out to a HO one, if you have an automagic transmission you need to modify things to allow the TV cable to actually work, or actually pull the transmission apart to install the HO TV cable, the TPS requires some spacers/screws and a little filing of parts to work (there is a writeup in the DIY section). You have to delete your EGR, so either use the HO header, plug the Renix one, or just crimp the pipe on the Renix one, then toss the EGR solenoid and junk. The P/S pump and bracket setup is different too, IIRC. I had lots of stuff on hand when I did it so it wasn't a big deal, of course I wound up milling my bracket so I could use a WJ pump too, but that's another story.

I don't have a picture, but there's not much to tell you. The wires for the CPS connector come out of the main loom that runs by the injectors/past the throttle body near the back of the head. It's a 3 pin GM weatherpack connector, you can buy one from Pico with the pins/seals (so no splices) for $5~. There is supposed to be a clip on the bellhousing and on the back of the head for the CPS wires, and without them there is potential for the wires to become pinched/torn. If there is splices in the wire anywhere then it is suspect and I would pull the loom off and check things. I think Cruiser has a picture out of the manual showing how the wire is routed and where the clips are supposed to be. They're often gone as people replace the CPS and just throw the wire in there.

^^^ Epic picture.

X2 on looking at the oil. Assuming the oil is okay, I'd fill the cooling system back up and monitor things. Unless there's something else obviously wrong with the engine. Any ideas why it is not running?

And maybe those screws that are mounting it are actually 5" long and screw right into the fender...

Umm, no, not likely. It looks like a fairly standard self resetting thermal style circuit breaker. The feet are to mount it, there's a slightly cheaper version without the feet that typically winds up just being left dangling, or at best zip tied to something, since they're not exactly easy to mount. There's styles with pin or blade contacts to plug into a circuit board or fuse box, again, they are not grounded. It's probably dedicated power for a stereo. Or something else broke and nobody wanted to figure out how to fix it correctly.

I moved mine. I went with XJ style stud mounts because I had a set. I do not believe in hanging anything below the axle tube. I am using stock length shocks and get acceptable travel out of it, I didn't adjust the bumpstops as they played nicely with the length of the shocks and fender clearance. I would suggest getting the axle in place and measuring before committing to what shocks you buy or mounting locations. You can see them in this shot... Sorta Or here

You can carefully unclip the brake and gas lines and move them over a bit. Also, buy a fireproof welding blanket (or a couple) and stuff one between the lines and where you're working. They're also good for covering other things you don't want damaged. Change out that leaking master cylinder ASAP. You don't want to damage the fuse block any more than it already is. Good luck on the rust repairs. It will be a big job. You might be better off just riveting some pieces in for now and seam sealing it, until you have time to take things completely apart. You're going to need a whole new floor pan on the driver's side to fix that correctly...

I said one time only, because 99% of the time they're screwed up badly. I guess if you had purchased new leaf packs recently? I've never seen an OEM pin come out in any sort of condition that I wound consider reusing it, normally it's cut them off and in the trash, no wasting time over $3 in pins.

Gotta agree with Hornbrod. Throw a nice light flake paint on it, or just a colour with some vibrancy and depth. That's a colour you paint something if the body work is less than perfect... (Been there!) People might hate me, but for the money I really think using an AMC360/3 speed slush box is a pretty boring/lackluster driveline for that thing.

Stock XJs/MJs can go a lot of places. It just gets rough... And eventually stuff breaks.

The SMP one is probably okay. SMP151 I think is the P/N, but that might be for the HO one... Just make sure there isn't a T on the end of the P/N. I've honestly never bought a new one. Normally the junkyard is full of new ones from people trying to fix idle issues that weren't the IAC. Are you sure the o-ring on it is good? And the plunger is clean along with the little passage for it?