DirtyComanche

It's a good idea other than it kills visibility out the back... Backup camera might be a worthwhile mod.

Most people have no idea because it doesn't matter to them, and why should it? Get the quick lube to check the gear oil and forget about it. And rarely do they get swapped out unless there is other mods. You MAY see the odd XJ in a boneyard with an 8.8 in it since it is such a popular mod, but that's about the extent of what I've seen for non-factory stuff. Most people with modded vehicles don't send them to the boneyard.

I'd assume the existing ones are wrong and measure the compressed distance between the upper and lower mounts. That's with the current shocks off, axle squished to the bumpstop... which you probably can't replicate so it's easier to measure from the the bumpstop to whatever it contacts (axle tube) and subtract 1", then subtract that from the current shock mount to mount distance. From there look for the longest travel shock you can find that meets the minimum distance. Monroe has a decent catalog, along with Bilstein, and you can browse through random stuff on Rockauto that should be similar and see if specs are listed.

It's the factory fluid in many P/S systems that run basically identical pumps and steering boxes. I consider it to be basically backwards compatible, I doubt there would be any noticeable difference between either.

Measure and order based on that.

Personally I wouldn't use any of it. As Pete said, the driveshaft and tcase are not desirable. The front axle also is of the early design and uses the smaller ujoints and different brakes and unit bearings. I'd find a later Jeep to pull everything from, 95ish and up will get you an external slave AX-15.

Yes, it will. As a cleaner option the standard old GM is a very similar resistance range (0-99 ohms vs 0-88 ohms) and you can get an aftermarket one of those for very little money... It just might not peg right full with the tank full, but it will be very close as most gauges are calibrated to show past the full line when absolutely full.

Lower radiator hose isn't collapsing?

What do the plugs look like? Cat or exhaust plugged? I know you said it's new, buuuuuut...

Make one out of hardware store junk.

Rockauto, eBay, Amazon for most stock replacement type items. Aftermarket is a lot longer list.

For the record you can delete it. But it's part of the emissions system so it may be illegal to do so, and you need to go to a vented cap or run the vent from the tank elsewhere. On my XJ it is run into a small filter along with a bunch of the other vents. I retained the restrictor/poppet valve, and it will probably smell like fuel if you don't.

Xwhatever on putting a thermostat back in. It's probably only part of the problem though.

It's closer to 70lbs, that thread is whack. A NP231 is only 65lbs. I could put a 242 on a scale if you really care, but IMHO you're probably pushing your luck even at that weight. Know any young guys that can do the grunt work? It's way less of a pain to do them by hand than with a jack...

According to Rockauto they are unique to that year, which is not surprising, with the exception that they list that some of the manual transmission ones work for 95-96 (I'm guessing a handful of very early 96s might use the 95 ECM, or it's listed wrong, there is a 96 specific ECM listed which is what they normally look like). https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1996,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180314,electrical,engine+control+module+(ecm+computer),2896

How is it expensive? Looks like it's all just junkyard or generic parts?

If he turns the steering to full right lock and take the drag link end off the pitman arm, it would be easy enough to measure if it will make enough difference or not.

I'm almost certainly heading through Jasper at some point in the summer, I'll let you know.

We don't have the same stores here, but I have 8 or 10 of the same 6 ton ones despite having different brands on them (Princess Auto, Performance Tools, and one other brand, NAPA or something, they're all the same Chinese junk and I'm sure Horror Fraught sells the same). When you buy these make sure to look at them before use, quality control is pretty bad. I have a pair of smaller ones that I basically never use. I had more but I gave some of them away. They're really only good for working on stuff like cars. I hate cars. I wish I had a set of bigger ones. Princess Auto sells some 12 ton ones that are about 20" tall at the lowest setting, they never really go on sale so I haven't bought them. I may make some eventually. I have some 2x4 cribbing that the 6 ton stands sit properly on too. Also, 6 tons rating means you can put about a quarter of that on them comfortably. Yes, they fail and kill people. So bigger is better.

It's only 1" drop. A ZJ one would be 2" drop. It might make enough difference to fix it, but I have my doubts.

Apparently Superior went out of business, guess I missed that, but Yukon makes the same kit. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=10255 East Coat Gear Supply has it listed at $588. I'd talk to WayneHartwig on Pirate (DiffsOnly) and see what he can do, I'd guess probably right around the $500 mark.

No, I hope they still make it. Superior Gear and Axle, IIRC. I can look when I get in from the shop tonight.

Yup. Especially on some low compression 1960s technology truck motor.

I never really understood the point of it, but you're correct, that is the functional difference. I don't care, I just need a column that isn't screwed that has keys. Or I could rekey the one allegedly good spare I have.

I think you wrote the start of that article to be really confusing, as you listed TJ and WJ blocks as interchanging in the second bullet point, then in a later bullet point indicated they don't interchange with the XJ/ZJ. For a guy thin slicing the article, he will be lead to believe they interchange with the XJ/MJ block as that's the only factory installation of a Renix, and the article is about using a newer engine with Renix controls. IMHO you should have said in that second bullet point that they interchange with each other, but not with the XJ/MJ/ZJ. Anyways, I'd put the HO intake, exhaust, downpipe, TB on and adapt the TPS. Using the HO stuff is cleaner, since you've got the HO head to bolt it to.