DirtyComanche

He has a point though, the tank should be the 18 gallon, and nobody makes the 16 gallon anyways. Now that we're talking about it I seem to recall that the 16 gallon long bed tank is just the 23.5 gallon with a longer vent tube so you can't fill it any more, it occupies the same physical area and is the same shell. I could be wrong though... I'm guessing the fuel sender is a bit messed up and OP can run it lower or get more fuel in it than he realizes. But still, I feel his pain, I don't have enough range to do a lot of what I want to do... But jerry cans are cheap and easy.

I like that guy, he just seems to enjoy everything.

What sort of suspension kit?

There's a few companies re-popping the 18 gallon tanks. Or maybe there's only one place and they're sold under multiple brands. I bought this one from Spectra (it's like $65 US or something). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17613&cc=1181720&jsn=1979 It's fine, but a little thin, like most reproduction tanks. I cleaned it thoroughly and painted it because rust is an issue here.

I thought somebody mentioned the 8.8 already? IMHO it's a good deal, but you really should drop the $650 (or whatever it is) on the c-clip eliminator kit. That mostly fixes the width issue, and gets rid of the c-clips. The ZJ D44A is just all around bad news. It doesn't take normal parts, has weak bearings, weak housing, weak tubes, and generally just falls apart. I mean, you could use it, but why? There's way better options for the same junkyard price. If anything you might pay a premium for the ZJ D44A from a wrecker as they're so problematic that people always need them.

The first one I bought they wanted to register as a car because it was a Jeep. It took some convincing that it actually was a pickup truck. Many people don't realize Jeep made trucks for 50 years or so.

I'd skip Chrysler (for now) and pull the driver's door skin off and see if the build sheet is in there. If it's not there, look on the bottom of the seat cushions. Amazingly they're often still there... If it isn't, try Chrysler. They might have something for an 89 since they were running things by then.

Kinda thought about that after my other reply... Might have had those "helper" air shocks, that don't really work that well, at some point? Where the other end of the lines go would probably offer a better clue. There's no evidence it had bags installed, not that I can see.

The sucky thing about the Doooodge tank for him is that it won't play nice with his fuel gauge. My sender/pickup is screwed now and I'm considering the Dakota tank along with swapping to a HO cluster and speedo setup... I just don't have any of the parts on hand. Of course that still doesn't really fix the fuel gauge, since the Dakota is the insane new Chrysler resistance range... Not interested in doing the new style dash and interior.

Did somebody replace the fuel tank recently? Kinda looks like they didn't feel like hooking up the evap/vent lines to the charcoal canister and just routed them overboard?

That looks like the regular shortbox 18 gallon tank. It certainly is not the LWB 23.5 gallon tank. I'm guessing that since the tag was attached to the hose that it is not relevant, the hose assembly may have been listed for the larger tank but was determined to be fit either, or it was Monday morning or Friday afternoon. How much fuel fits in it would be the real question.

How about a picture of the tank (installed) rather than the tag? The 23.5 gal tank takes three straps and is longer than the 18 gallon tank.

Metric sizes are metric sizes... They don't always convert to a 'round' size in inches. Metric sizes do seem to tend to be closer in size to what they're labelled as compared with inch sized tires.

Are the 16 and 18 gallon tanks any different, or is it just the height of the vent tube in them? A guy can hack the vent tube a bit to squeeze a little more in most tanks, but be aware you can cause it to leak or force gas into the charcoal canister if you fill it right full on a hot day.

The long bed tank will interfere with the rear axle if installed in a short bed. I have a YJ tank that I was planning to try putting where the spare tire (normally) goes, but I haven't pursued it as jerry cans are a lot easier than modding the truck up.

When the axle articulates the top of the tire tilts in. Then it rubs. It will make a big frowny faced mark. Mine rub there. Part of why I felt the JK axles would have been better, since I'm not willing to go to a wheel with less backspacing or add a spacer (there's already an adapter on it to go to 5x5 so I can use JK wheels). The stock XJ/MJ axles are just too narrow if you're going to a much larger tire than stock.

To build another "mild" truck like the one in my sig, I'd probably use JK axles. I haven't fully researched that because I have no immediate plans to either change the current truck or build another like it, but I think in retrospect that I would have been better off selling the XJ D44 I had and not using an XJ D30. For bigger stuff I don't really believe in using a D44 for anything. D60 front, either a regular Ford or a Superduty one as they're the convenient driver side drop and high pinion (SD is a lot stronger out of the box, but there is some downsides), for a rear most of the HD truck axles are reasonable options. I could see building a hybrid D44/D60 front if I had all the parts lying around and wanted to be a bit different, but there cost to benefit ratio isn't great. I eyed up a set of Volvo C303 axles once and do regret not buying them. There is some exotic swaps like that which make a lot of sense actually. Choosing the right axles isn't an easy question to answer though, as there is many different options and many different considerations depending on exactly what you're doing...

I just repeat it every time I can so hopefully people stop thinking it's a great idea.

And I think most of BC better be packed and ready to evacuate this year... The fires are just starting to go and it's nothing but heat in the forecast.

You could try Cruiser's tip of slightly enlarging the mounting holes on the CPS and pushing it closer to the flywheel. http://cruiser54.com/?p=50 If it's .1-.2V it's really unlikely to actually start. Of course I'm not sure how decent your multimeter is. But it would appear to me that your spare CPS is just as bad as the other one was.

Those cheap Chicom welders have come a long ways in the last few years. I bet it will do you well. Have fun with it. Be careful and wear the right PPE. What did you get for a mask/helmet? Make sure you're using the right shade, because your eyes are kinda important. And don't burn yourself too much with arc flash, it's not good for you either. Make sure you've got good ventilation if you're welding indoors, or get a respirator, and only weld clean metal as certain chemicals will create very nasty fumes when welded.

That's too low. Try your other one. Most of the aftermarket sensors are junk and don't last long, which is really annoying. I'm a handful of hours north in Prince George (well, I live there, I'm not there right now). Good to see there's another BC member on here.

Where are you located, BcBrunner?

What is the meter set to? Ohms? Because that's in the correct range for the resistance test, which as I said, does not have much validity. You need to set the meter to A/C volts and check it while it is being cranked.

The Wagoneer D44 swap is the most overrated/waste of time swap out there.