DirtyComanche

Metric sizes are metric sizes... They don't always convert to a 'round' size in inches. Metric sizes do seem to tend to be closer in size to what they're labelled as compared with inch sized tires.

Are the 16 and 18 gallon tanks any different, or is it just the height of the vent tube in them? A guy can hack the vent tube a bit to squeeze a little more in most tanks, but be aware you can cause it to leak or force gas into the charcoal canister if you fill it right full on a hot day.

The long bed tank will interfere with the rear axle if installed in a short bed. I have a YJ tank that I was planning to try putting where the spare tire (normally) goes, but I haven't pursued it as jerry cans are a lot easier than modding the truck up.

When the axle articulates the top of the tire tilts in. Then it rubs. It will make a big frowny faced mark. Mine rub there. Part of why I felt the JK axles would have been better, since I'm not willing to go to a wheel with less backspacing or add a spacer (there's already an adapter on it to go to 5x5 so I can use JK wheels). The stock XJ/MJ axles are just too narrow if you're going to a much larger tire than stock.

To build another "mild" truck like the one in my sig, I'd probably use JK axles. I haven't fully researched that because I have no immediate plans to either change the current truck or build another like it, but I think in retrospect that I would have been better off selling the XJ D44 I had and not using an XJ D30. For bigger stuff I don't really believe in using a D44 for anything. D60 front, either a regular Ford or a Superduty one as they're the convenient driver side drop and high pinion (SD is a lot stronger out of the box, but there is some downsides), for a rear most of the HD truck axles are reasonable options. I could see building a hybrid D44/D60 front if I had all the parts lying around and wanted to be a bit different, but there cost to benefit ratio isn't great. I eyed up a set of Volvo C303 axles once and do regret not buying them. There is some exotic swaps like that which make a lot of sense actually. Choosing the right axles isn't an easy question to answer though, as there is many different options and many different considerations depending on exactly what you're doing...

I just repeat it every time I can so hopefully people stop thinking it's a great idea.

And I think most of BC better be packed and ready to evacuate this year... The fires are just starting to go and it's nothing but heat in the forecast.

You could try Cruiser's tip of slightly enlarging the mounting holes on the CPS and pushing it closer to the flywheel. http://cruiser54.com/?p=50 If it's .1-.2V it's really unlikely to actually start. Of course I'm not sure how decent your multimeter is. But it would appear to me that your spare CPS is just as bad as the other one was.

Those cheap Chicom welders have come a long ways in the last few years. I bet it will do you well. Have fun with it. Be careful and wear the right PPE. What did you get for a mask/helmet? Make sure you're using the right shade, because your eyes are kinda important. And don't burn yourself too much with arc flash, it's not good for you either. Make sure you've got good ventilation if you're welding indoors, or get a respirator, and only weld clean metal as certain chemicals will create very nasty fumes when welded.

That's too low. Try your other one. Most of the aftermarket sensors are junk and don't last long, which is really annoying. I'm a handful of hours north in Prince George (well, I live there, I'm not there right now). Good to see there's another BC member on here.

Where are you located, BcBrunner?

What is the meter set to? Ohms? Because that's in the correct range for the resistance test, which as I said, does not have much validity. You need to set the meter to A/C volts and check it while it is being cranked.

The Wagoneer D44 swap is the most overrated/waste of time swap out there.

Check the output voltage on it while cracking. The resistance check doesn't seem to have much validity.

So, stuck valve? Hole in the piston?

It was a big thing in 4x4ing back when gears weren't that low, transmissions only had 3 speeds and engines had 60HP.

That's a score if I ever saw one.

Surprisingly common to see, actually. The neat thing is that more times than not it actually still works out okay enough that it can be driven on, especially if it's a hub centric wheel (which that is, but it's not meant for that hub).

Get pics. I doubt it's factory as there's no evidence they made a bracket to do it. But never say never...

Normally the pins step so bad that it takes tremendous force to move them. I often just cut them and drive the pieces out because of that.

I only drill them a size over because normally the holes are oblonged. It's a case by case thing. I also tried using metric bolts that were just a hair bigger, along with high tolerance bolts (also a hair oversize).

They're just a 1/4" roll pin, IIRC. Maybe they're 3/16"? Sorry, I don't remember. I drill the hinge the next size over and put a bolt in when I make the doors quick removable, and I would probably do that even if I wasn't making them removable.

If there was one thing that was consistent about AMC, it was that they were inconsistent with everything they built.

Correct. There's dynamic seals on both ends. The adapter space is not meant to be sealed and has a drain on the bottom of it. There's some exceptions to this out there in other applications, but every factory trans/tcase combo in a MJ will be like this.

The ATP Y803 or Pioneer CA3004 are likely the best bet. The first one is for cruise control applications, so it's out. And the last one is 100" long, which is insanely long... An 83" cable with screw on ends should be fine.