DirtyComanche

Actually, I've seen those champions in use. They work. Just slow. Seem to last a fairly long time and make close to the rated pull. If I was to get another winch it would either be that T-Max comp winch (9.5K, very small) or a used 8274. I'd probably still run steel cable as synthetic hates where we wheel.

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say the only difference between the can/us vehicles was that they put a sticker on the firewall that said 'this vehicle conforms to Canadian emissions and safety standards and is not designed to conform to those of any other country' and gave us a kilometer/hour gauge standard with the mile/hour in small lettering as an option. :nuts: Brochure is in good shape. So is all the trucks in it. Maybe I should restomod one of these things sometime instead of destroying it.

So, what if I do drive on a semi-float axle with a broken shaft? Oh yeah... What if you've got an aircraft and a runway. The runway is the exact length that is needed for the aircraft to take off at X weight. Now, we throw 1000lbs of pigeons in the back of the plane that is already at X weight. (it is now X + 1000lbs) If we make all the pigeons fly while the aircraft attempts take-off, will it make it before running out of runway?

I'd say 'probably' to the spacers. The track difference is rather extreme and there's not a lot of clearance between the frame/tires as it is.

All the parts includes the axleshafts, brake rotors, calipers, caliper brackets, brake hoses... I think it isn't worth it to convert them.

Exactly. As to of what it is worth. I have no idea.

I think he's a little stuck because the leaf hangers are in the way.

No, because the blokes at NAXJA don't know what they're talking about :roll: . Actually, I think BrettM's route on there works fine. But I don't remember as I looked at it a long time ago. You NEED at least an 8" ram unless you have VERY short steering arms (IIRC, he called for that in his cheap thread). And you should NOT put any washers, blocks, limiters, etc in them. I don't care what they say, that is wrong. You do NOT do that to hydraulic rams. The steering box has its own pressure cutoffs which should be LONG before you break a knuckle. I went to a local tractor supply and had my hoses made and bought the ram. Drill and tapped a spare box. Then made the brackets. Nothing else to it. Well, I pulled the front axle and steering for welding. The only other kicker is I used a 10"x2" (IIRC) ram because it was on sale.

:huh???: the truth is that fram sucks. Oil filters at least. I'd try getting rid of that filter and then go from there. Does it really matter that much? I mean, I'm one of those guys that says 'oil is oil...' and mixes brands. I run fram filters because they are cheap and have the grippy part on them so I can change my oil easier every year or two. I did notice the MJ had some hardcore valve noise on startup last week. Or maybe the idler pulley is trying to seize again.

You've got a bad ground up front if the fuel pump won't work without the tailights hooked up. This looks pretty good. I'd probably have not bothered to do anything with that bed though. It's seen better days. :nuts: The porportions of the LWB actually looks pretty good bobbed, IMHO.

I can tell you the front is a LP D60 with a Cad setup and unitized hubs. Wait, 95? Maybe not.

There's kits the use a similar concept to convert FS trucks to link rear suspension. Personally I think it's kinda hack. And as Pete said, if you're SOA you're gonna have too much tire for the D35.

I did mine in about 3 days of actual work. And I work killer slow (see my DD thread...). It is a little more complicated if you're working with a D30 though.

Mine started to pull the bolts - not crack. You could visibly see where the washers were. I made my own. There's no rocket science - you just need thicker metal to spread the load. Oh, and I went to hydro assist too. That helps!

My uncle has a early 60's/late 50's chevy apache. It had the origonal vacuum operated wipers. The would operate at different speeds accodring to the throttle postion, engine RPM, and load. Pretty useless stuff if you live in an area that it rains 200+ days a year. :roll:

A rollacge is needed one you break into 11s on a NHRA track, IIRC. But, uh, I probably have that wrong.

I have mine under the rad. It's a ramsey crap 8k. It doesn't same ramsey on it, but it's the same thing... They're about the smallest winch of suitable power. Slow. Slow. Slow. You could make one fit with the bumper in the stock location if you hack the front crossmember and build a new one back about 6".

Good grief. What's redline? Must not be very streetable.

Almost blasphemy isnt it! But when your looking at the situation from my side, it only makes sense. I want to build 2 SETS of these axles; exact copies. 1 for the MJ and 1 for the honda buggy. It will allow be to buy 1 set of spares and allow me to spend less in the long run I hope. Diamond housings with FACTORY 4.10 TRD Elockers third members front and rear. HP in the front (through TRD). These chunks will allow me to get FACTORY parts at most any dealership in the world. Allowing me to get parts fast and easily. Longfield 300m 30 spline shafts in the front with his 300M hubs. Rear will be filled with Longfields rear shafts. This will let me run 37s without an ounce of fear. Even with the doubler I want to toss in and the stroker WAY in the future. Isn't a TRD (8.4") gearset going to really only be of comparable strength to a D44? They don't have a third pinion bearing, do they? Well, I guess they'd both hold up as long as you don't back up. Personally I don't think you'd see me running toy parts. I've spent way too much time calling the toy guys bad names and making fun of their motors - I'd never live it down. I'd probably wind up spending big bucks on hi-9s just because I'm stubbron. But a factory E-locker sounds sweet. Knowing me I'd probably lock them and leave them like that though. Well, one way or another this should be interesting. You should skip the mild stage and just move right on to the monstrosity.

I've always loved those cars.

Toy axles? Uh...

Just have a 12 pack and get the sawzall out and see what happens. Although, if you cut your arm off it's not my fault.

To pull that shafts without a slide hammer, reverse the brake drums and do the lug nuts up just a little bit. The grab the brake drum and yard it towards you. Repeat as needed. The shaft will hopefully pop out.

Holy nice shop batman. When I'm not a broke student I'll get me one of those :popcorn:

I think it's a little too bad for that. But maybe I'll try it. What grit should you be using for that?