dotis

I have an 86 Comanche 2.5 5 speed, with a/c, I just got it running after about a year sitting, everything is running great, but I have an issue with the heat. at mfirst the heat seemed to be on all the time, then I found a vacumn line off and once I put it back on, the heat then stopped, now I have good control over the vents, it will do defrost, heat, vent and a/c but the heat will never come on. I'm thinking it's the heater valve?

Were there ever any Comanches used by the US Military?

Anyone everput 6x9 speakers in the rear columns under the seatbelt retractors? If so did they sound good?

Well, I have never experienced this before, but the oil filter guys were right, I swapped the filter from the fram, used a purolater, drove to work this morning and half way here, it just quieted down and is Much more reasonable. I still have some noise, but it is what I believe is normal, 100% better, thanks for all the input.

It's a 1986 2.5, 5 speed BTW

Got my truck running it had sat for a year, after some fixing it runs great, I put a hundred or so miles on it, and it runs good, so yesterday I decided to change the oil and filter, did so every thing was great for 5 miles or so then my valvetrain started making a lot of tapping noise, I know they make some noise normaly, but why did it start up after I changed oil and filter, I used Napa 10W40 and Fram filter. Any ideas?

Being a guy with large hands this turned out to be an impossibility for me, besides the fact that the ground connection would have been impossible to deal with as it has the safety clip thingy so it doesn't just come off. So I made it easy, and cut the front of the dash a square large enough for the switch to get past using the new switch as a template, the old switch just came out plugged in the new switch easily, put it back in and made a metal panel that covers the hole and the switch mounts to, easy and looks just fine. Removing the lower panel and the instrument panel did not help at all for me, the still isn't much access and the wires are very short so the switch moves very little when connected.

Any tips on how to change the headlight switch without tearing the dash apart? I got the plunger out and screwed it loose, I then figured I could just drop it dowm and replace it, it seems the wires are so short it won't move around.

OK it runs now. The issues were as follows: 1. I knew it wasn't ignition, timing or speed sensor as it ran fine with gas poured into the intake. 2. checked injector signal with a noid light no signal 3. rang out wiring and found no voltage to injector 4. replaced relays and sockets (very coroded) got signal to injector 5. checked again with noid light still no signal 6. took out ECU rang out wires to it all ok 7. put ECU back in still no signal 8. replaced ECU now good signal, pour gas in intake runs and noid light is flashing as it should 9. took off noid light and hooked up as normal still no run 10. replaced fuel pump purrs like a kitten SO... I had a combination of problems, but all solved and it runs great Thanks to everyone for their help! This is a great list.

OK, I found several problems in the wiring, the relay connections were major corroded, I replaced relays and sockets, still no good, replace the ecu now I have a good noid light signal, I can put the noid light on and pour gas in the intake it will start and the light gives a good signal, I am quite certain I need a fuel pump, still have a spare? what would be the cost?

Not yet, had snow and other wife things to do, will get back into it this weekend, I got new relays as they are cheap for the fuel pump and B+ latch, the connectors were really ugly, I think I will find a connection issue eventually, I will have to just ring out all the wires one by one.

Thanks! that sounds about right, I've replaced the injector with a new one, so that is not it, and I have plugged a noid light across the injector wires and there is no signal with the key on. so I think the ECM is not sending a ground signal is the right answer. I'll pull the ECM out and ring out the circuits today.

86 2.5 with TBI, runs good and has great spark when I pour gas in the intake. I have checked the fuel pump it is fine, replaced the fuel filter, I get gas to the injector, the pump runs, the fuel pump relay is ok, I get 3.5Volts to the injector. I guess the next thing is the ECM or the wire from the injector to the ECM? The speed sensor should be ok as the ignition is working to let it run when I por gas in it. correct?

Well I rang out the wires to the fuel injector, I have 3.5 volt there, is that what I should expect? Now I have to look at the ecm I guess as that is where the other inje ctor wire goes. Apparently the injector was NOT it.

Thanks, that makes logical sense, that's what I'm looking for. The fuse box and interior was kinda moldy and moist, so I'm thinking maybe it could be the connections on the computor.