DirtyComanche

How did I miss this thread? I did it. I wouldn't do it again. My reasoning, I think, was that my other suspension setup had inherent flaws that I could not easily fix (rusty's LAs), and motivated by the concept that front leafs would be cheap and work well, I tried it. My results were less than spectacular. Image Not Found Flex is alright. That was all that was alright. Honestly. Leafs suck, period. Luckily we don't have any F-toy retards to argue with me about that on this site. Anyways, I bent springs, nearly broke one, had ugly axlewrap, found the leafs had too be on too wide of a centre to work well with a narrow (61") axle, and they would unload while climbing. Oh, did I mention axle wrap? And the steering was slightly vauge, which is inherent to not having a track bar. You have coils and links, for the actual cost of swapping in leafs you should stick with coils and links. And you can actually have somewhat proper suspension geometry with coils.

You used the tranny out of the XJ? The CPS (crank position sensor) is based off the flywheel/flexplate. You have to use a renix (87-90) flywheel/flexplate or it won't work. Otherwise, I'm somewhat at a loss.

High idle on brakes = bad brake booster. The booster is leaking vacuum (okay, it is leaking air into the intake) and causing the idle to rise. Unless it is always or randomly high, then I'd suggest IAC or TPS. Your gauge problem I don't know about. Bad sender? Bad guage?

WJ isn't 5x4.5, but 5x5 IIRC.

Oh, your BA10-5 is 21 spline. I thought you hadn't counted the splines on the tcase input yet.

I don't think so. Early AW4s were 21 spline. But that ended in 89 with the introduction of the AX-15 (23 spline), AFAIK. But, they might well have still used a 21 spliner in a 90. Edit, althought it might have been behind a TF-904 I guess. I think they're 21 spline.

Should be good one 2 and 3. And I think 4 as well, it just needs to be adjusted. For #1 you can rip all the lines out, buy you'll lose the 4wd indicator light. No biggy?

Okay, I guess ya got me there Pete. :cheers:

They aren't really rare. If anything it is rare to get a working BA10-5. AX-15s are perhaps more expensive because of desirability, but there is plenty of wrecked jeeps to yield them.

Have you ever cut open that seam? It's not much for structure. I just think self-tapping screws are hack. I have standards, I try to conform to them.

There's a reason for it though... It is a good idea. I save about 20-25% of each pay check, the majority is for long term and some of it goes into the 'fund for whatever' account that if it grows too much I transfer into my long term savings. It's nice knowing that if I lose my job today, I have enough savings that I can go for a couple months without being employed. And if I don't lose my job, I might actually be able to retire before I'm 90.

I wouldn't use a self tapping screw in a structeral application. It is wrong. Sure, they might be rated. I don't care. I personally think welding them on and damning all thoughts of removal is the easiest method that is acceptable. The better choice, but much harder, is to drill say a 3/4" hole through both sides of the frame rail, weld a peice of 3/4x.120 DOM tubing in the hole as a sleeve, then bolt it on with 1/2" bolts through the frame. 1/2" bolts are stupid overkill, but it depends what you can get for tubing to use as a sleeve. Accurate Gauge and T&S Tubing are the guys in PG to talk to - I haven't asked for anything smaller than 1"x.120 DOM though so I do not know the avaliability of smaller sizes. Other thoughts that I've had is rivetting them on. I don't know of a commercial (read, affordable) rivet that would work for this. Perhaps a steel Cherry 'Q' if one can actually still buy them. But, that's a little more complicated. Removable though, just a PITA when the time comes. My choice would be to do weld in rocker replacements. I think they look better and offer more clearance. But, if the rockers are mint it's really hard to bring yourself to cut them up. I buy junk vehicles for a reason - no second thoughts when it comes to sheetmetal removal.

It depends how bad the locals are trying to rip him off. Once you throw in shipping and brokerage, plus waiting a week (or more) for something to show up, often there's no point ordering from the south. If rockauto ships via UPS, instantly there is no point. I won't buy anything out of the US that is shipped UPS, and I tell that to every vendor who won't ship things otherwise.

Awesome, she got what she deserved.

I have never heard that :hmm: You will likely get away with that theory with a 3" lift, but with the larger lifts there is no way to keep the pinion down like that...even with a CV style shaft. :dunno: Tom Woods has some excellent (and simple) diagrams on how shafts are supposed to be aligned... http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

Got a discount? No parts store actually sells things at list price... Unless you're willing to pay it.

Not really reasonable. But I can see how they got to that price. Pump - $80 Labour 3.5x120 - $420 =$500 But, yeah, it doesn't take 3.5 hours to change the pump... I don't even think the book time is that high.

I got up at 5am to help warm up 3 choppers, then hopped in a truck and drove 800kms... Then I had beer. And pizza. Now I'm bound for a camp... It's a dry camp, hence having the beer yesterday.

I got up at 5am to help warm up 3 choppers, then hopped in a truck and drove 800kms... Then I had beer. And pizza. Now I'm bound for a camp... It's a dry camp, hence having the beer yesterday.

Won't say everying, other than it was -45 and there was a strong wind. And my friend picked that night to get his 4runner stuck... Lets just say a 3/4 ton diesel is NOT the ideal recovery rig for most conditions.

Won't say everying, other than it was -45 and there was a strong wind. And my friend picked that night to get his 4runner stuck... Lets just say a 3/4 ton diesel is NOT the ideal recovery rig for most conditions.

Okay, just a few things... The term '4-link' is a little vauge when applied here. I am assuming that RK will still have a panhard bar up front with the '4-link' kit. This makes it a 5-link. Which is the same concept as the stock XJ front. However, with a 5-link (or probably more properly called a 'parallel 4-link with panhard') the links MUST be parallel or only slightly angled in relation to each other. Without bothering to look at the pictures, I have no idea what they have actually done. If the links aren't parallel, it binds. Plain and simple. If you have rubber bushings it isn't as bad. But it still binds. However, with a 3-link (with panhard) you need to have some amount of triangulation/angle on the links. Typically the lowers are angled out, the uppers in (viewing towards the axle). The more, the better. A 3-link with panhard will outperform the parallel 4-link in MANY ways. Both on and off the road. However, if the angles were not right, I could see it as a 'band-aid' solution to change it to a parallel 4-link. Anywho, whatever. I won't be buying one. I'd rather build what is optimal to the constraints of my praticular application.

Dropping the tcase is rarely (I prefer 'never') needed in a MJ. It is long enough that both driveshaft angles will be acceptable unless you build something stupid tall. The front shaft angle should be fine without the drop.

Good luck. It always sucks to have to leave a truck anywhere in the bush. You just never know.

I have no idea. They should have been the same. The only thing that would jump out at me was if the front yokes on the tcases were different. But AFAIK, they're all the same. It should be more like 3" exposed, off the top of my head... I'd have to measure a shaft to really tell you (it depends on the shaft too - some have more splining and will show a little more, some less, but not by too much).