DirtyComanche

Okay, maybe that isn't the correct term. But I have something like that. All of my projects are retarded. I start with something relatively simple, then I complicate it until it is pretty much impossible. And I do it with everything. Not just jeep projects. I know I can't take the valve cover off an engine, because I will inevitably wind up tearing down the whole engine to rebuild it. I can't cut a peice of sheetmetal off without deciding to cut another peice off, and another, and another... On a slightly related note, I think I'm going to go buy a comanche cab. It might come with a few other stray parts, but it is mostly just a cab. Uh-oh. :nuts:

Looks nice and solid.

Probably, a couple of the mods there are morons... It's somewhere in their policy too, I think. Since it is a 'business'. Oh, and half the time they don't ban people, they just set their bandwidth priority to nothing, so you can't do anything (not even load a page) unless it's a really dead time for the forum.

For block heaters, there's a couple options that each have their merit. A) Freeze plug replacement. OEM style, like what you bought. I believe you have the wrong one (normal parts store screwup). Northland probably won't help you much more than chieftan, NAPA or Lordco can. Just go in and ask for a block heater, then ask for a freeze plug for the same truck. If they are the same dimensions, you probably found the right block heater. B) In-line hose ones. They require you to cut a rad hose (lower or upper), and are then installed with a couple hose clamps. They aren't as effective. C) Pressure bottle heater, or rad cap heater. I've seen them a couple times. With a closed system one would work good. A guy could also wrap a battery blanket (basically a heating pad for the battery) over the pressure bottle. D) Magnetic stick-on heater. I've never used them, princess auto sells them, but I've seen them stuck to the oil pan on equipment before. I think they would work best on an oil pan, providing it was steel. Another thing that is really nice is a 'buddy heater'. It's just a small electric heater that a guy can throw in the cab. You can put one under the hood too - but I'd not do any sort of permanent install. We use 'em in the helicopters all the time, 1 or 2 in the cabin, 1 or 2 on the engine deck, and 1 on the tranny deck, and it keeps everything toasty warm.

A little rant... So, I live in an apartment. Parking is assigned. One spot per unit unless requested otherwise. All spots have power (for block heaters). Anyways, I came back tonight, and somebody was IN MY SPOT. Okay, so, that shouldn't be a big deal right? It's not a car I've seen before, so it's probably a visitor. But, the area where I am assigned is mostly vacant (the far fence) as a lot of the renters here don't even own vehicles. But, I leave my freaking bright yellow block heater cord out and obviously leading to MY SPOT. Why would somebody pull in and choose one of the few spots that actually has a cord left out? Cord = obviously used. I don't get it. It was a little jetta. I was going to push it aside with the diesel but decided that would be more trouble than stealing somebody else's spot and moving my cord. Bah.

Cool.

True, but I'm afraid of having an expensive camera. This is an old olympus, its water-proof and no big loss if something bad happens to it (which will probably happen eventually).

It's all near where I live. 'Near' as in within 6 hours of driving. Photoshop... I might do that to them at some point, for now I don't worry about it. I'd rather train myself to take the picture right in the first place. :hmm:

I'm with Jeepco about the window. But I'd break the full window over the vent. To change the vent you have to pull the full one, so save time and effort by breaking the easier one to change. Or, better yet, take a coathanger and straigten it other that for a hook on the end, slip it between the window pane and the door skin (pry back the weather stripping to get it in), and snag the lock control rod, then yank it up to unlock the door. A tweaker can do it in about 3 seconds, and I figured out how to do it in about 3 minutes.

I took a little drive on wednesday - coming back off tour. I didn't take any pictures on tour, but I really should have. Ohwell. The light was really uncooperative, and I kinda screwed up with the few where the light was good. Ohwell, eventually I'll figure this camera thing out. Bridge at the Pine River. I actually wanted to get a good pic of the rail bridge, but I was going to have to walk... So, another time. Image Not Found Bijoux Falls. Drive by the turn off often, but I'd never stopped. There was a trail to the top, but I decided not too since I was technically 'at work'. Image Not Found Downstream. Image Not Found Killer swans. I spooked them with the truck, so I could only get a pic of them fleeing the scene. They aren't very tame. Image Not Found I think these are all McLeod Lake. Yeah, they aren't quite level. I'm mad about that. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found And this fatty was trying to beg some food. I didn't have any though... Image Not Found

NAXJA managed to effectively kill their advance fab/engineering forum by making it members only. Oops.

Funny story, but I laugh for all the wrong reasons. You americans have no idea what a left wing nutbar is.

Maybe that's what the mystery switch on the dash did?

Yeah, and a big star of pile-ness. I don't have it with me, or anywhere near me, so no idea what P/N.

That was my only guess. The pile did have DRLs, but they were added, or so I thought... But not aftermarket. I didn't bother to look into how they were done, there was some wire splicing going on that I didn't feel like dealing with. Perhaps it was actually done right, but the wire splicing was for something else...? It freaked me right out when the headlights came on when the motor was running.

Image Not Found 90ish XJ. I ment to ask when I stripped it, but forgot. None of my other piles have had one. Just curious. :dunno:

good enough for me. consider them gone. I always remove them. I think they're useless as their described function. As to how they help with cooling, could you elaborate please? Something to do with directing air to the centre of the rotor so it is channelled back out through the vents (in a vented rotor)? Anyways, never had a problem with them off.

I guess I'd never thought about running a stock internal pump externally... Hmm.

Some paints (and other weird chemicals) prefer to be kept cold. We have a couple fridges at work loaded with random epoxies and coatings and other fun stuff with skulls 'n crossbones on it. Typically if that's the case, it'll say so somewhere on the label.

I feel the same way... Handcuffed by an apartment. And no, I'd not live in a 'park' either. Anyone here ever watch 'Trailer Park Boys'? Yeah... Anyways, there's just something about a trailer park that depresses me. So, I'm not going there.

Weird. Very weird. The old skin was easier to get along with.

Yeah, I don't think they'll be appreciating here... But, there value isn't squat instantly - give 'em about 30 years and it is. I figure I might as well do it. But I'm going to talk to my dad about it :roll: Well, more specifically if I should buy anything right now, not specifically a modular/trailer...

Get one bare and take it to a plating place... It shouldn't cost too much.

Yeah, it's a later model 14 bolt full-float, with a 10.5" ring gear and third pinion bearing... The gearset is unbreakable, basically, and the shafts are huge (they're like 1.58" or something at the splines). Hangs low, really low, so they need shaving... Often they can be had with 4.56 gears from the yard, and sometimes you'll even get a factory detroit I believe...

I wonder if there's any way you can make a mobile feel less like a mobile? Dude, once you get in there and style it up your way, it will simply feel like home. I know, I just have to get over it.