DirtyComanche

The thing about stainless that I don't like is that it's horrible to drill. And I mean horrible... But I guess if I planned it right, that shouldn't be a big deal.

Actually, it's funny you say that, there's lots of Canadian geese near where I lived in my home town, and every now and then you'd see an odd-ball or two in the flock that were definatly NOT Canadian geese. But it didn't seem to bother them :nuts:

Why regular steel? The coating crap doesn't work so well from what I've seen. And AFAIK stainless is reasonably easy to weld - I can do it with a stick half decently, or at least make it look half decent... Aluminum won't be bad for corrosion as long as you use 5052 - which is ment for marine/corrosive environments, or if you use an alcladded product (which can't be welded, which means you have to rivet it, which means I'm not interested despite the fact that I can do that).

Is this at least feasible? I don't really see why not, but I'm often blinded by my sheer ignorance. So, If you were to do it, aluminum or stainless? I've never welded aluminum with a MIG, and I've only ever welded stainless with a stick (but I fail to see how it could be hard if I bought stainless wire). Would you make the tank thick enough that you could consider it to have an integrated skid plate? IE, 1/8" sides, 3/16" bottom if stainless, 5/16" bottom, 1/4" sides if aluminum? Or such? Would you use a stock style fuel pump? Just thinking, probably not going to ever do it...

I can try...

At the same time though, the way it comes complete in the can? It's kinda scary, you just pop the top and there's a lonely looking cheeseburger in there. I dunno, it just weirds me out.

They do look a LOT better when they all match.

How many gauges do you need? I figure a tachometer, speedo, voltage, temp, oil pressure and fuel quantity is all that's needed? Which is all the factory stuff. I guess if you have an auto, you might want tranny temp. But what else could a guy need? Air pressure if you had OBA I guess, seems kinda unneeded though.

I like my autometers in the MJ. They ain't exactly cheap though. And to fit them to a somewhat factory appearance would take some work. I seem to recall at some point seeing a thread where a guy had made a new instrument panel to mimic the stock one (probably not on this board). Was a lot of work as the stock peice has a printed circuit board on it that also has the turn signal indicators and a bunch of other jazz, including the warning lights and such to the left.

F-bomb metric. I'll order some 1/4" quick pins. Thanks for measuring, deziped...

Take out a loan or whatever is needed. If you don't fix it, it'll get worse, and besides the risk of death (which is at least a minor inconvenience) the surgery price will go up the worse it gets.

Most guys eff it up. They look at the gauge and assume A)It's actually accurate B)That's the temperature of the entire head C)It's a problem that it's warmer than the typical 1970s carburated chevy runs. Time and time again I see people swap in 160* (or pull) tstats to fix their 'running hot' problem, only to find that the engine runs like a pile of $#!& and fuel economy goes to half. If you screw it up bad enough, the computer will never come out of closed loop (warm up mode), and it'll run pig rich 100% of the time. Or, if you screw it up a little it'll take longer to come out of closed loop, and settle at a temperature that is not optimal for combustion. The ECM and fuel injection was designed and programmed with the intention of it running fairly warm. The OEMs figured it out long ago that they could eek more power and milage that way.

230 is a little hot. But you should run a 198* stat and you should see about 210-215* at the head... The factory gauge is not accurate typically, so you may not actually have any issues. Swapping in a lower stat is not right. The EFI is supposed to run warm/hot or it will have more issues.

Chesseburger in a can. Yes. You heard right. Chesseburger in a can. Where you get 'em: http://www.trekking-mahlzeiten.de/trekk ... _4641.html Review: http://gizmodo.com/351304/cheeseburger- ... n-reviewed

That last pic is pretty ugly, that'll need a bunch or surgery. For the lean, drive/wheel it a bunch and see what happens. Might all work out...

That's awesome! But so horrible at the same time!

He'd had it for a couple months and was waiting for surgery. But it 'ruptured' on him 3 nights ago. Hopefully the wonder of our universal healthcare can get it fixed for him within a month. If he's lucky :roll:

So, one of my co-workers got a hernia. We were all sitting around drinking and BSing tonight, and I decided I wanted to see what it looked like. Ugh, ugh, ugh. I'm not lifting heavy objects ever again. That is all.

the alternator should boil the water out from the heat its absorbing from the motor. but it sounds good in theory. Water isn't the issue. Dirt/sand/crap is. It takes very little to score up the brushes and the surface they ride on, which will cause your field voltage to drop to almost nothing and the alternator won't make no juice. The idea is that if it can drain out it will prevent damage...

I want to put the 12V cummins out of my dodge into a J10 or J20 at some point. Unfortunatly, there's a lot of 'if's for that project. Basically I need a reliable daily for the mean time, a good j-truck donor, and something bad to happen to my dodge. Yeah. My plate is already too full.

Cool. I should do that to the engines at work.

You can buy the tent canvas, it's better than a tarp... This guy made a killer roof tent http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/s ... php?t=4802

I have to admit I'd never even thought about using that flexible exhaust tubing to make a header.

If I remember tomorrow I'll copy the pages out of the FSM for you.

Wow, that'd have pissed me off.