DirtyComanche

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:D post one letter at a time. eventually you'll have us all scratching our heads trying to piece words together (face it, that's what it is with you anyways j/k :roll: ;) ) and you'll get to the post count :D How...

Time for a new water pump.

So, apparently I need to do some major whoring? I used to post so much...

Jeepforum put their member price up too. And it's a crappy forum. I dunno if this forum will turn out to be a good one. Comancheclub is a really good one because we all have a lot in common - comanches. With the cherokee (and having ZJ/WJ/etc derivatives) I don't think there's as much of a 'brotherhood'. I'll give it a try, if it's meh I'll move on. I can only handle so much of driving through puddles and 'I just finished my 2" BB and 30s!'. BTW, I'm 2drx4 on there.

www.cherokeetalk.com I signed up a while ago, just becuase I wanted to establish my resident a$$hole status at an early stage.

Amusingly enough, my prices have dropped somewhat. Diesel is a little cheaper than 87 for the first time in a while. It's still freaking high though.

Flipping the stockish stuff is alright for a couple inches of lift, but in the end you really need to upgrade a little more. The factory inverted-Y setup is a little bit retarded, at droop you get toe-in (noticably) and stuff you get toe-out. While flexing it does some weird stuff. And it's really not very strong - the TREs are crap. The JCR setup is major bang for the buck. Go price out the TREs that it uses. I CAN'T buy the 4 TREs for the price of his entire kit! Besides, that stuff is actually strong enough to really limit worry. Get some flipserts, and drill the knucles out while you're at it, to 'improve' the drag link angle a bit. Of course, I will point out, the drag-link and track bar angle do have to be parallel (measuing with a direct line from joint centre to centre), but they also have to be relatively the same length. Or ideally exactly the same. Generally this means some fiddling with the track bar brackets. And I'd run the flattest pitman arm that will allow for a reasonable static drag-link angle, but there is not always a choice.

They look like photocopies. But that reminded me to see if I got my expenses payed back... My employer owes me $263.84 for fuel, plus $48 for meals.

I know better than to order stuff while drunk. I buy enough stupid stuff sober (I wonder when my junk from speedway is gonna show up?) My drunk posts are often very hard to pick out. It's only when I'm already frusterated with the subject (I had a long arguement on frame plating where I presented nothing but tech, and was met with nothing other than 'that's wrong because we've always done it this way') that I generally get ugly with it. And then I even give fair warning, generally starting my reply with 'So, this post is most likely going to get me banned, but I think it will be worth it'. They can stop reading there if easily offended. Of course, then they'll miss out on the tech in the post, but if we got that far they weren't listening anyways...

I didn't know door speakers were optional. I like how obvious the tail-gate lettering is!

The 88 FSM, I'd assume. I think my 89 FSM has a little note about that.

I'd rather build things myself. Mostly because I'm insane. It's not because it costs less... I'm thinking stainless it is. I get a deal on 304T. Maybe. But I'm not sure if they'll have the dimensions I'd like.

I've been 'banned' or the equivalent of it 3 times of JF. (They like to put a nasty bandwidth cap on your account instead of banning you, it basically does the same thing because your connection times out if you try to do anything). I have an account there now, and post every now and then. I think some people figured out who I am, since I do have a rather distinctive build thread in the XJ section. Whatever. Every time I got banned probably had to do with being drunk and posting. I don't have as much patience then, but I do use a lot more expressive language. I've moved on from caring when I see bad advice. They'll learn one way or another. Besides, maybe I am wrong?

A standard cell wouldn't fit. I actually want to replace the tank on my XJ with one that's a little more robust (and not rusted to all hell), and has more capacity. I know I could just buy one, but I'm sure I would find some reason to not like it. I don't want to make the tank hand any lower than the stock one - an inch higher would be even better. But I think I could make it a little wider perhaps, and extend a little farther foreward. I didn't really look at it in detail to see if it would work, I only came up with the idea while sitting here thinking about skid plates.

I think they do it that way because it's easier for mass production. Being that it can be cut, bent, and welded by an automated system. Welding will sometimes make the steel more susceptible to corrosion, either by creating an internal stress (bending steel makes it more likely to corrode, if you care to know), or by simply using the wrong filler material (dissimilar metals). Providing you use the same stainless filler rod/wire as the material, I don't see an issue.

this is why we have plasma cutters. What 'we'? I don't :cry: Don't even have one at work either... I should talk to them about that.

Pull the three that go through the frame right in front of the wheel, pull the DLE off the pitman arm, undo the two lines, and loosen the bolt for the coupler at the input end on the steering box. Don't do it in that order. Undo everything else before the frame bolts! Life will be easier... Although, you don't have to undo the lines if you take a hacksaw with you (my preferred method, normally they're seized and aren't worth the swearing).

I'm pretty sure the YJ yoke is no longer. I've heard over and over again that it is, but I've measured them, and I've seen pictures of others being measured, and they weren't any longer. I will consider it possible that there is more than one type of YJ yoke, and I always got the short style. :nuts: I haven't cared in a long time, so it's not like I ever tested a large audience.

The YJ slip yoke is the same length, just it's basically ground from the factory. I have no issues grinding yokes personally, as long as you do it right there's really no strength loss. But if you need to grind them for it to work at static height - no, it's not good.