Andy in Pa

You know, I am starting to wonder if the flywheel is loose or cracked or something. If the relationship with the CPS somehow changes with clutch in/out, it would affect rpm at high levels. With the clutch pushed in, it unloads the flywheel and it spins more freely. Or maybe the CPS is loose? It sounds like you were just in there working on it not too long ago.

I don't hear any noise in the video, but are you hearing anything that sounds loose? Also, do the rpms change at all at idle with pushing the clutch in? Even a little jump? You may want to to take a good look at the wiring under the dash by the clutch pedal/linkage. Maybe something is getting rubbed or pinched when the clutch gets pushed in.

I used the Bosch 69302 kit, it comes with everything you need. If you replace the pump and STILL have a problem, look up a post I made about this earlier this year. My problem was the ECU, not the pump. It was doing the same thing though, only pressurizing to 5-10psi on the fuel rail. In my case the fuel pump relay was buzzing too though.

There may already be a post about this somewhere, but I could not find it. SO with the research I have done, I thought I could contribute to the sticky thread with this post. My goal is to run all LED marker/turn signal/Hazard lights. The side marker lights up front are easy, just replace the incandescent lights with appropriate LED's. There is already a post for that with some light research on this site. If you want to convert them to turn signals as well, there is already a post for that too. This post deals with just flashers- what is needed and why. The "why" is simple... our factory flashers use a thermo-electric circuit, which depends on the power draw of an incandescent bulb to flash. I can explain in deeper detail how this works, but you can also google it if your curious. The simple answer is LED's do not draw enough power for the flasher to thermally "switch", so either you get one blink and the light stays on, a rapid series of blinks with no audible clicking, or something else specific to your vehicle/grounding/wire condition when trying to use a factory-like flasher on an all LED setup. 1. You CAN run a mix of incandescent bulbs and LED's on a factory-like flasher. I would still plan on replacing the factory units if your truck still has them. 2. You CAN run both incandescent AND ANY combo of LED lights with an LED flasher too. 3. For ALL LED lights, you will need an electronic flasher that has a ground wire, and be able to make the appropriate GOOD ground connection. Test your ground and MAKE SURE ITS GOOD. Some sites call them Electro-Mechanical flashers because they still contain the relay contacts for the audible clicking sound we all have grown accustomed to. Here is a list of Electronic flashers specifically for ALL LED lights. Keep in mind, these types of flashers CAN BE polarity sensitive too, and there have been cases where the female connections on the fuse block have been switched. If you install one of these and STILL have a problem (it will be obvious, like -"nothing works at all"- type of obvious), try switching the female connectors (recommend making two jumpers to test it first though). NAPA- NF EL12L1 (Amazon) CEC- EF32RL (Amazon) CEC- EF32RLNP (NP = not polarity sensitive) If you don't care about the audible clicking, www.superbrightleds.com has two options that I am aware of, that are actually quite affordable. These options also do not have a ground wire that needs connected. There is no relay to "click" so no grounding needed on this type. CF12ANL-01 - $9.95 FL2-RED - $12.96 This one has a bracket for remote mounting. I am sure there are others, but hopefully this will get you moving in the right direction to source the correct LED flasher for your turn signals and hazards from your auto parts store. .

Yep, I really didn't think anything about it, and just ordered it thinking it would work. Its a flasher... simple circuit that any shadetree electrical guru could design, but I guess even for that its "buyer beware".

Gonna bump this back up because I got what was listed on Amazon as an electric flasher that works with LED's, and amber LED bulbs to convert the front marker/turn signal bulbs to LED's (This is on my 89 MJ). Reason was I found a bad socket. I assume it went bad because of age, and due to the heat of the incandescent bulbs. New socket installed (Dorman 85898 works perfectly), put in the new flasher, put in the LED bulb on that side, and now it flashes rapidly and the relay is not "clicking" when I hit the turn signal. Worked fine with the incandescent bulb in the front, and LED's in the back. I have not changed the Hazard flasher yet, would that make a difference? Superbrightleds.com has one they sell for this (their part # CF12), but it doesn't click, and I kind of like that clicking sound in case I forget to turn it off. I have read plenty that says I just need the electric flasher (not thermal), but it doesn't seem to be working in my case. With this flasher it does say it works with mix LED's. Maybe that means it doesn't work with only LED's... Here is the flasher I used... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGC28B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Thoughts? Anything helpful you can add? Thanks, Andy

Assuming the steering box is good (and honestly I would replace it since you can't get it to stop leaking at this point) there are some very stout steering box bracing kits out there. I would recommend looking at www.Ironman4x4fab.com steering box brace. I just put one of these on my daughters MJ, and honestly there is no way the steering box CAN move at all at this point. It can be tough to put on if the truck has been hit or tweaked in the front at all. I think Andy the owner actually has a video of the install on the website right now. If you have creaks you can't find, then I highly recommend this kit.

Yikes... yeah that is either a missing shim or bad carrier bearings. Who was the last one inside that axle? Take a good hard look at the gears too and make sure there are no bad wear patterns. If its badly worn, even after its fixed it may have a growl or whine.

The AW4 and xfer case from your 92 should bolt and connect right up. You may even get lucky and the speedo cable won't need to be changed. When I did it a few years ago, I was able to get the speedo cable to reach too, so you may get lucky there. To go from an electrical to a cable driven speedo, its just the difference of a sensor being in the place where the cable goes. Unplug and remove the sensor, and bolt up your speedo cable. Also, I suggest just going to an aftermarket linkage setup for the xfer case. So many better designs exist now, and some under $100. The newer (97-01) XJ's are actually more complicated with connections. I tried recently to put a 96 AW4 in a 99 XJ, and the connectors/cabling was different.

As I see it, if there is looseness or play in the small u-joint in your steering shaft, replace the shaft with new. Its a pretty critical piece of hardware. I say this as one who has never had a steering shaft with slop indicating the small u-joint was worn out. I did put a Flaming River aftermarket steering shaft in my MJ when I rebuilt though, because someone gave it to me. The factory shaft was loose, but the little joint was tight and technically did not have any play.

No difference, they are mostly all poly. Can't help with longer sway bar links. I have used simple shock extenders on sway bar links to get 2 more inches of length in the past. Worked really well. I can't remember thread size or anything like that though, you'll have to do your own research for that. I agree with what the others are saying too. Where you are now looks like the perfect height. Maybe you should just see how the tires are hitting and see if trimming the flares and liner would solve it. Otherwise, you may also need to put longer shackles in the rear to compensate for the added front height to get that look back.

I would be very good about cleaning up the main leafs, assuming neither are the bent one you have pictured. Try cleaning the rust off the others too and see how bad they actually are. If the leafs are too bad, score some leaf springs out of an S10 pickup and make some custom leaf springs using the MJ main leafs.

That's a nice looking truck!! Yes, a simple spacer and maybe some very light plastic trimming on the flares and liner and it should be good. I actually don't think I would go more than a 1" spacer. Its sitting at about 2" of lift right now. Are those 31" tires or 32's?

Coil spring spacers are fine to use. No safety concerns there. Its wheel spacers that are unsafe to use.

If you like the ride of the springs, I would consider just installing a set of those 2" spacers above the coil springs. Way cheaper than the ACOS spacers, and its likely the springs won't settle any further. I wouldn't be too concerned about bump stops unless your planning on wheeling the rig hard. If you wheel it at all, then get a set of sway bar disconnects that are adjustable.

For the brake lines, in the front you can bend the hard line straight in the front on both sides and mount it lower on the frame rail to give the brake line more flexibility. This works for 3-4" of lift, but not sure if it will for 5.5". In the rear, in a serious pinch, I used an L bracket mounted to the screw that holds the small junction block to the axle. then loosened the brake lines at that block and turned it 90* so the inlet into the block is aimed straight up. Then remounted the block on the L bracket higher up. Again... works great on 3-4" of lift, and/or as a temp fix and even driving around town, but its too risky to flex the suspension. I used 95 YJ rear e-brake cables on my XJ. They are longer and have the correct ends for using the factory MJ hardware.

I JUST pulled a D35 from my MJ to swap in an 8.25. Its sitting in my driveway. about 1-1/2 hours east of you in Downingtown, Pa. It has 3.07 gears, but in your case, since its 2wd, it won't matter. I am converting a 2wd 5 spd MJ to 4wd. You can have the D35, its from an 89 MJ and will swap right in. No leaks whatsoever, and was smooth and quiet. Let me know if your interested. Brakes are all dis-assembled right now, but I had rebuilt them with new parts and they worked fine. A.

Fuel pump is grounded through the connector for the fuel pump assembly outside the fuel tank. That ground runs back to the ground lug behind the taillight. The integrity of this grounding circuit MUST be 100% or the fuel pump won't run. The rubber gasket only seals the assembly to the tank, there is plenty of metal contact (for good grounding) in place once the lock ring is locked.

I just went through something similar with my MJ, and it turned out to be the actual contact internal to the ECU was bad. In my case, the pump would run, but at a very low speed. What the ECU does is cycle the ground reference for 2 seconds when the key is first turned on to activate the relay and prime the pump, then shut off... THEN when you turn it to START position this latches to ground and the relay activates and the pump runs. I tested absolutely EVERYTHING, and it all tested out perfectly. I traced the wiring everywhere, including right to the ECU connector. My solution was to provide a ground reference to the wire that was supposed to ground through the ECU. Works perfectly now, but the fuel pump runs constantly when the key is in the "Run" position. Its not a problem on our Jeeps though because there is a return line back to the tank. Also FYI, The ONLY place the fuel pump is grounded is behind the drivers side rear tail light. You should see 0 ohms between that place and the ground reference on the pump assembly. If you turn the key on and jump the relay and the ballast resistor and there is no 12v being fed to the relay, it could be the ignition switch mounted to the steering column, as that is where this 12V originates. Search for my post, maybe something in there would be helpful to you... A.

I like this idea, I would run a set for sure.

Just what I needed, thank you!!

I am converting a 2WD MJ to 4WD, and have been searching a few places that "part out" Jeeps. The one question they keep asking me is what is the length.... to which I have no answer because I don't have a point of reference. Is there some place in the Comanche Club world that this is documented? If not, can someone measure one for me? Specifics are it would be for an 89 MJ with an ax15 and NP231. Thank you... Andy

91/92 possibly. I know a 92 XJ has them welded on. Its also possible that accident repair may have put in a later style into an earlier year MJ or XJ for that matter. The flange portion is not as big though, so its not hard to slip the isolator over the bumpstop cup.

Tomken makes a pretty simple but strong basic bumper for MJ's and XJ's. They even have a grill guard you can buy that fits their bumper as well.