Andy in Pa

Hahaha!! Yeah, what is up with that prong on the coil?? Test spot or something? I noticed that recently too.

Ok, thanks for the clarification!! I really hope someone else can benefit from this thread. I tried to make everything as clear as possible, but please contact me through PM if you are having a similar problem and need help. Result in this case was a bad input at the ECU, so technically replacing the ECU should fix the problem, assuming the ECU is a known-good unit.

Hmmm... good point. I wonder if it comes on in accessory mode too. Might have to test that out. I can't even HEAR the new pump run, even with the ballast resistor jumped. Its gets pressure though!!

I don't really think that is a big deal, do you? It has a return line, so its not like the pump will be pushing against a blocked line.

OK, so I pulled the lower valance and could get right to the bolts much easier. Tested the wire, and it's perfect from the relay all the way to the connector at the ECU. This means a bad ECU in this case. Who has a known good ECU that they want to part with? Any concerns about just grounding that wire at the relay?

Lol... so at the top huh? Can't even get my hand in there let alone see them. Gonna have to get someone with smaller arms/hands to check it out...

Thanks for the pic, I will have to go look again. Are those screws at the top, bottom or side (closest to the firewall?) Never had to pull an ECU.

I checked and re-crimped two of the wires today on that stud. Actually when I replaced the battery I hooked it right up to that stud as well. Each ring terminal holds two wires, so a total of 4 grounds connect there. Its clean, tight and 100% now. Relay still buzzing. I did not have the time to pull the lower valance off the dash to get to the ECU. Should be able to confirm the A5 pin tomorrow. If it turns out the ECU is bad, I will probably just ground that wire at the relay and call it good. Seems like the much easier solution than scrambling all around to a dozen junkyards and pulling ECU's that I know nothing about.

Thanks guys... yes the ground behind the rail light is cleaned up, tested and good to the fuel pump. Didn't fix the problem. Cruiser, I have done 99% of the ground refreshes you recommend on your page. All are good. I am going to recheck the multi ground lug on the dipstick tube. Also good info on the ECU, thanks for that. More testing to do today, I'll update when I have more info. Like I said, when I jumped ground to the pin 2 on the relay, everything worked properly. I really need to check the integrity of that ground connection to confirm its the ECU. My concern is that there is no logic (either relay or software) needed from the sync sensor or cps that could be holding this ground reference from working at the ECU.

i just jumped a ground reference right to the fuel pump relay on pin 2, turned the key to ON and no buzz, and the fuel pressure came right up to just under 40psi. Yep, there is something faulty in that circuit. I will see if I can confirm continuity to that pin on the ECU. I hope I don't have to swap the ECU out. Seems like it may be hard to find one for a 5 spd.

Hey gents, this problem is driving me nuts, so I am hoping you can help me out. MJ is a 4.0L 5 spd short bed. Very rust-free rig, that has been running great for a while. Suddenly it started running poorly and died on my daughter. We got it home, and I started out by checking spark, confirmed all seems to be working well, then moved on to fuel. The fuel pump relay is buzzing, and the pump is running, it just doesn't sound healthy at all. It never stops as long as the key is in the "On" position. Just keeps running/buzzing. Please see below for the list of things I have done so far: 1. CHeck/cleaned spark plugs. Noticed a few looked a bit white, so possibly lean, others were gray/black so OK 2. Checked spark plug wires, all good and pretty new. 3. Pulled distributor cap/rotor. Also pretty new and they look fine. distributor is also less than a year old. 4. Pulled and changed the relay 5. Removed and checked the coil and mounting block. All looked good 6. Jumped the ballast resistor 7. Cleaned the relay block with brakeleen and let dry. 8. Checked and confirmed good the ground going to the pump (grounded behind the drivers side taillight) 9. Checked fuel pressure. Its at less than 20psi (expected this, but was hopeful) 10. Replaced fuel pump with a new Bosch unit 69302 11. Changed the fuel filter No change after ANY of this... I did some research and do have some schematics, so went back to the fuel pump relay. I tested ohms at the Orng w/Tr wire, expecting to see a ground reference (its supposed to see ground at the ECU) but could not get it to reference ground with the key on or off. Orng wire had .7 ohms, which I am guessing is fuel pump motor windings resistance. Yellow wire was 12vdc with key on, red wire was 12vdc all the time. It seems to not be picking up a ground reference at the ECU. Does the sync sensor or CPS have anything to do with that? Its not cranking, so I am not sure how the CPS would come into play yet unless it provides some sort of gatekeeper signal to the ECU. I am proficient with electrical tools, meters and such, is there some way to check and troubleshoot a problem with the sync sensor, CPS and/or the ECU? Does the computer need to see a signal from somewhere to provide the ground reference for the fuel pump relay? Don't know how the logic works with this, but am willing to learn and figure this out.

Just did the same. Take it back out, use a screwdriver and make sure the slider is all the way to the back and move it forward one click. Re-install, paying attention to NOT move the slider. You have to have that one back click for Accessory mode.

I have swapped out the bolt for a longer one and tightened it to drive the HB on to a point I can safely use the original bolt. Can be tricky, just make very sure its engaged properly on the crank and it should go right on.

I like that look too. Are they metric sizes or are they actually called out as a 35-10.50-17 size tire? I have another application where I would like to use these. A.

Can you still get the wheelhouse plastic? Source?

That's interesting, I was thinking the 4cylinder 4 spds may have had 3.73's or maybe 4.56's or something a bit more "off the reservation". Or was that the 4cyl autos? I have never run into them personally, but it seems I have read that there are a few unique gear ranges involved when it comes to the 4cylinders in XJ's and MJ's. No matter what, definitely check before buying!!

Also, something else to consider is its unlikely you will find an HPD30 from a 4 cylinder XJ or MJ, so its likely that the gearing will not be correct, and you will need to regear the new axle. I think that most 4 cylinder MJ's and XJ's had 4.10 gears. Auto's had 3.55 gears mostly.

I really like this idea, and think if you had a roll bar designed with the angled back pieces landing on top of the wheel wells in the bed for a short bed, it would be easy to modify it for a long bed. Just stretch those arms back a bit more so they land at the same place on a long bed. Make those angled arms removable, main hoop would stay the same. Its easily shipped this way, and more universal. It won't match the factory roll bar, but I bet it would sell anyway. Others could use it in various mid-size pickups too. Also you wouldn't have to wait (and rely on) measurements from other folks either. Just a thought...

I run the Brown Dog polys with bracket kit on my 96 XJ trail Jeep and was concerned about the vibes. I was pleasantly surprised that it was no problem. Take a close look and make sure the metal portion of the mount is not touching (or close to) the engine bracket on the drivers side. Its quite tight there, and also on the passengers side by the alternator. I remember having to notch the metal on the MORE motor mounts on my 88 Cherokee (many years ago) to make them work and not have vibes. I can also see a case where the bolts on the mounts, if left too loose, could possibly make light contact on the metal collar inside the bushings, which could cause vibes too. I tightened my Brown Dogs like the directions said too though, and have no issues.

I have not seen anyone mention vacuum lines yet. Please make sure all of your vacuum lines are in good shape. Having a leak will cause it to stumble and shut off like this as well. This also includes around the throttle body and the fittings on the intake manifold. The line to the MAP sensor. Those rubber 90's and such on the vacuum lines tend to dry-rot and don't seal as well as they need to sometimes. Don't forget the lines and the vacuum ball underneath the front fender. Then follow Cruisers recommendations for setting the voltage on the TPS. Leave the meter on it and make sure the voltage changes linearly as the throttle opens/closes. Something in the ignition system could cause this too. The ignition control module is potted from the bottom, and that potting gets dried out and starts to crack. Moisture can get in there and cause these problems. Are the cap/rotor, plugs and wires new? Were the plugs gapped correctly before install?

I have never seen a factory one. What is your goal? To be able to lock/hold it into just 1st gear, or to also lock/hold it into 2nd gear as well? I can say that I use one of those small Radesigns shifters on my XJ, and love the ability to lock it into any gear when rock crawling. I used an aftermarket version of an On-Off-On switch for the same reason.

Lol, ok... I will get some when I pull the old disty out.

So I recently pulled the distributor out of my 89 MJ to re-seal it properly and take care of the pesky oil leak. When I removed it, I noticed that it had this extra bracket over top of the distributor tang that seemed to be useless and redundant in the process of holding the ditributor in place... I just got done with a bunch of research to figure out why this happened, and, well, it turns out that it is not redundant, it is actually quite important if you plan on keeping your distributor IN PLACE for the duration of your drive. The tang broke, and the distributor popped up while I was driving, which made the MJ run poorly. It never lost engagement with the oil pump though, so it had pressure the whole time. Lesson learned... New distributor ordered, and hopefully in hand by the weekend. Little hold-down clamp is going back on!! Just when you get cocky and think you have seen it all, a humbling experience like this happens and whacks you with a stick...

You don't need 3, just the set of 2 matched. Ignition is a different key anyway. Those GM keys were interchangeable at that time too. I used to cut keys around this time at a hardware store, and quite often a blank would have the right pattern and length, but be round instead of square, or vice versa. No worries, just wanted to let you know they are available brand new for our years.

Check Crown Automotive. I looked for 89 Comanche door lock cylinders, but they didn't have them, so I looked for 89 Cherokee, and they list them for 84-90 XJ's. They are easy to order on the Quadratec site. Talk to Crown though, I think you can get two keyed alike from them. Edit- Apparently someone asked this question, here is Q-tecs answer-- Yes, Please see #8122874K2 for the pair with matching keys. For a complete set of 3 it is 8122874K3