Andy in Pa

I believe all the t-cases that went behind an AX-15 were 23 spline. So when you are sourcing the 242 t-case, just make sure it has a 23 spline input. A.

Me neither, but I like to pull the upper rad hose and fill the radiator that way.

Wow!!! Never knew there was such a thing on the 4cyl. Well played htchevyii

It is very easy to install that ignition switch incorrectly. I have done that already. One spot off, and it won't slide the switch far enough to hit the "Start" contacts. If you fixed that fusible link AND installed that ignition switch at the same time, and its not installed correctly, that may be your problem.

I am in for a set of these MJ seat brackets as well. Please reach out to me so we can make this happen. Thanks, Andy

That is a block heater. That is very common in the colder states. Looks like it was completely destroyed at some point, but there is usually an electrode that sticks out in the center where a wire attaches. They can be a MAJOR pain to replace if one goes bad. Happened to my neighbors car, and I helped him replace it. Shouldnt affect how it runs at all, but it looks like someone tried to put a new one in and had to JB weld it in place.

Ok, so this is more of a fluid dynamics issue than anything else. You are killing radiators because you are over pressuring them, This is because of the overflow pressure cap being at the expansion tank. Because of line size and dead-heading the system BECAUSE of the heater cooler lines still running through the Mac tank, the pressure builds in the MAIN cooling circuit (engine, upper/lower hoses and radiator), with no way to relieve quickly. Put a straw in your mouth, now try to blow out as fast as possible.... take the straw out and do the same. Which relieves pressure faster? It will be a fully functioning OPEN system if you eliminate those heater core lines and run them directly to the heater core. An open cooling system is a NON PRESSURIZED system... at least nothing over the pressure rating on the cap on the radiator. Honestly, you may STILL over-pressure the radiator and force leaks, because the radiator cap is not on the radiator. OR... you NEED to put a solid cap on that aluminum expansion tank, and get rid of the overflow bottle entirely. FYI... There IS NO NEED FOR AN OVERFLOW BOTTLE on a closed cooling system. Its one or the other with the way you have this set up. You can put an open cooling system radiator into a closed system setup, because the pressure relief is still at the radiator (AKA the main source of antifreeze volume and pressure), not at the expansion tank. Its not suggested because its overkill to have a expansion tank (with a normal sealed cap like factory) AND an overflow bottle, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

The leaf springs themselves are different, but rear shackles and all front end components are the same. There are companies out there that offer SPECIFIC MJ leaf springs though, you just have to do some digging. Also FYI, rear axle spring perches are different as well. A rear out of an XJ will not bolt right into an MJ without moving the spring perches on the axle.

I have known people that have chased that rear main seal leak, and finally just decide to live with it. If that is the only thing wrong with your MJ, I say you have invested plenty, and now its time to drive it and enjoy it. If you look under almost EVERY other XJ, MJ, ZJ, or TJ with that motor, with over 100kmiles, they are either extremely lucky that the RMS is not leaking, or, like 90% of them, they leave a few little oil drips from their RMS.

incandescent bulbs or LED? While running, or just "key on"? Any other weird electrical problems that may point to the 101 connector or something else this may be combined with? License plate lights work?

Please do a "shadetree" alignment on the front end. Just having the truck that far out of alignment could create that wobble. Find 3 and 9 oclock on the tires and measure the distance from inside of tire to inside of tire as accurately as you can. Loosen and adjust the draglink adjustment until those numbers are close. If that doesn't make sense, dig up a few videos on youtube and follow along with them. Lots of good info out there.

That is definitely your water pump leaking. I had exactly the same thing happen to me, AFTER I replaced the lower hose, thinking it was the problem. So at the risk of confusing this issue slightly, I have a question on what type of cooling system you are actually running. It says you have an "Open" cooling system, but your still running that metal catch can (replacing the plastic one needed for a "Closed" cooling system). Does your radiator have a cap, or is it still the older style with no cap? When converted to an "Open" cooling system, that plastic bottle is removed (in your case it would be the metal catch can) and the cooling lines are re-run as well to eliminate the extra piping not needed any longer. Then a small plastic overflow bottle needs to be installed so the over-pressure line has somewhere to go in case there is an over-pressure condition and it burps out past the cap on the radiator. This bottle should have the fitting on the bottom so the fluid can be drawn back into the radiator as it cools down. Seems like you have some redundancy that could be removed to simplify your cooling system a good bit.

Just found this thread... you've been busy!! Looks great, my daughters MJ is also still doing well. Andy

If you left the grease seal from that u-joint cap on the u-joint trunion, believe it or not, that is enough to not allow the trunion already through the cap hole NOT go in far enough for the opposite side to slip into place. Once the grease seal is off, the slight edge of the center "black" part of the u-joint has to go into the cap hole, and it slips into place.

Actually, yes you are going to have a problem if you try to run 35's on factory backspaced 16" (5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5 pattern) Jeep wheels, so you'll need adapeter even if you had that bolt pattern. In your case, add the correct 1-1/2" conversion spacers to the 16" Jeep wheels and you'll be good to go. I bet the tire will stick out less than an inch with that combo. And if its a D44 front axle, there is much less worry about the load the spacers put on the hub bearings and such.

Yes, sounds like you need to start (as you have done) and keep going back until you locate the problem. These attached schematics should help. Although, remember the relay is energized by a signal, but the power going to the compressor comes from the set of contacts on the relay. Maybe the relay is energizing, but the feed power to the N/O contacts on the relay is not getting power. Is there a fuse for the AC comp?

I agree with checking this measurement, you have to measure the true length though, by holding the tape measure along the leaf spring. If you just measure eye-to-eye, it will be way short because the arch of the springs. Another question I have relates to the center pin on the new springs. Is the head of the center pin on the top surface of the springs or the bottom surface? If bottom, they are XJ springs, set up for SOA like factory. If top, they are MJ springs.

While the ignition switch was out, could you turn the tumbler and get the key out?

Eagle- I think that cable is attached to the actual shifter, but it has no other additional function besides being a spring-loaded indicator to show which gear your in. When I converted my first MJ to the gauge package setup, that indicator could be unbolted and bolted into the gauge package. I didn't have to disconnect the cord attached to the needle or anything, just had to make a hole in the gauge face for it to be visible. Spinnaker- Its likely the spring return is broken in your indicator, and it just needs a new spring put in. The small cord that attaches to the needle is probably still there, and the needle is just not visible because it is pulled all the way to the right. Also FYI, that indicator needle only has a small cord linking it to the shifter arm. I would consider it non-load-bearing, as all it does is pull against a very light spring to move the needle.

Does it go into the correct gears though? Is it definitely in Park, Rev, Neu, Drive when you shift it?

The ignition switch is basically a slide switch. It can be installed a "switch-click" off either forward or backward, which will either keep the key switch from actually being able to turn far enough to "Start" the truck, or keep it from turning all the way off to remove the key. The last one I did, I installed it a click forward, which meant the key would not turn far enough to Start the truck. Just remember, at static (with the key fully off) you should be able to turn the key ONE click further counter-clockwise for "Accessory" mode.

It is still possible that your truck is still not in "Park" fully, so rule that out first. Yes, you'll at least have to disassemble the dash a good bit to get a good look in there. And once its disassembled that far (and you have confirmed its actually in "Park"), there is only two more bolts to loosen to allow the steering column to drop to gain better access. I suggest hitting up youtube to watch some videos on how to do this. It is well documented out there, and anything up to 90 (XJ or MJ) will be the same.

There is probably no way to tell if the column is original, but if a "manual" column was swapped in, there will be an extra little lever by the key tumbler that will need to be pushed down to turn the tumbler the rest of the way counter clockwise and take the key out. This should not be present on an Auto trans MJ, but stranger things have happened. If normal, the tumbler WILL need to be pushed in slightly to turn fully counterclockwise and remove the key. The other possibility is your ignition switch was loose, and it moved slightly in its mount on the steering column (top of the column, and easiest to access if you loosen and drop the column slightly). The key switch connects to the ignition switch with a simple metal rod, and if its loose or not set correctly will impede the key switch travel.

I think you are correct. I had a very similar problem years ago with my 96 XJ. Had cooling issues that I could not diagnose, (on an XJ with 45kmiles), and it turned out to be excessive heat coming from the trans due to damage to the TC input nose being egged out after an ugly bell-housing breakage (long story, it came out in 5 pieces). After replacing the bell-housing and getting it back on the road, it took about 6 months for it to finally kill the gasket at the TC nose, and completely drain my aw-4 of all tranny fluid in about 28 seconds or less. That was a bad day... When I pulled the trans and the TC, the nose had gotten so hot that it was "blued". At the time I was using an additional large cooler, and the trans lines were still using the factory radiator cooler too. I also had the electric fan on a switch and it was running. And BTW, the fluid NEVER looked burnt or blackened or anything. It came pouring out of my trans a bright, clean looking cherry red. Clearly this is an extreme circumstance, but the point is you are on the right track. Even traffic accidents could cause unseen damage that rears its ugly head in strange ways years later. Turns out my bell-housing was cracked for a LONG time prior to the breakage, likely because of an accident.

You may be on to something with the trans cooler. These trans can run quite warm, and if the converter is not going into "Lockup" mode at speed, it will create more heat. Also, if you eliminated the trans cooling in the radiator, you'll definitely need a decently sized one for in front of the radiator. Best place for it is in front of the electric fan, with the fan on a switch and turned on. Do a quick test the next time you drive it, and at a steady state of cruising at 45mph or so, step very lightly on the brake pedal. You should see the rpms jump slightly on the tach. This means the TC is unlocking, and it should lock again once your off the brake and at that steady speed again. This will at least tell you that the trans shouldn't be making any excessive heat.