Andy in Pa

Yes, this... Just hooked my washer pump up. My MJ did not have the Low Washer Fluid indicator, so its just hanging out in there as well.

I know up until a 96 XJ you definitely can. The seat belt mounts are identical. I used the seat belt and retracting assembly out of my 96 XJ in my 89 MJ and it bolted right up and works fine. The latches were different though so I used the female end as well. If you grab them out of a wreck, just grab the mating ends as well.

My rule of thumb with powder coating is what is it going to be used for? If its a hard core wheeling rig, then use spray paint because its GOING to get scratched. If its a lighter trails rig, driver, or commuter rig, then powder coat.

I went through this recently too, and there are some extras, especially with a 5 spd. A critical thing that helped me immensely is printing out the electrical schematics from one of Cruisers links. In his post above, click on his website. Lots of helpful info in there.

Yep that's the one. A.

Sounds like a moisture thing. The coil mounts to a distribution block that is potted on the bottom. That potting cracks with age and allows moisture in, causing everything from misses like this to complete no-start conditions. Had one fail in my 87 MJ. Was wondering why it was acting finicky for a few months, then it completely failed and I figured it out.

The problem is probably inside the drum then. Better take both apart and compare what is going on there. Could be a broken spring or maybe the lever the cable attaches to is not attached correctly..

I like your plan and the ingenuity behind it. If your willing to listen to a suggestion, I have an idea that may make them higher clearance and stronger as well. Instead of making the rocker a rectangle, I would change the boxing piece so it tapers up to the outside, making the rocker more high clearance. Bring the 3" dimension up to 1.5", and change the bends to line it up the way you planned. I also think 16 gauge (.0625") is a bit thin, but understand why your using it. I am afraid that you will bend it if you land hard on them. I dented my 120 wall DOM tube rockers on my XJ with a hard landing.

An inline connector is intended to pass current, voltage and power (watts) unimpeded. If there is a poor contact, or for some reason a stranded wire is broken and only a few strands are still connected, the power draw from the device the connector feeds does not change. It still requires 12 VDC at 3 watts. The poor connection (or broken wire with only a few strands connected) cannot handle this power (watts) the device draws, so it melts the connector, or burns the stranded wire completely through. Connectors have a multitude of failure modes. The wire could be compromised inside the connector, a contact could be loose, or the contacts could have some oxidation on them causing a poor contact. I'll give you an example-- I was trying to diagnose some electrical problems in my MJ recently. Had power to the fuse block, fuses were NOT blown, no power coming out of the fuse block. I replaced the fuse with a new one, and it worked. The fuses had a buildup of this white oxidation on the connection tabs, and they were no longer making good contact with the contacts in the fuse block. Hope this helps...

Got it, and put in as well. Works great, thanks for your help! A.

Just PM'ed you my address...

Just sent the paypal over, thanks so much for your help with this!! WHen you get it sent, please send me over any tracking info. Rgds, Andy

Great, thanks for confirming that. I couldn't imagine how it would be different, but I am not the first set of hands (or the second, or third...) under this dash. Yes, if you could dig up that part number that would be great. Mine is non-existent at the moment.

This is going to sound crazy, but in my efforts to solve some electrical gremlins with my 90 MJ (manual 5spd 4.0L) I think I have realized that the fuse block is mounted 90* off what schematics show. My Hazard Flasher is upper right, and my wiper/washer circuit breaker is middle/bottom. Turn signal flasher is lower/left... Everything seems turned 90* counter-clockwise... Is this possible?? The underhood connector does not look like it was messed with at all. Also one more thing... I need to replace the wiper/washer circuit breaker, does anyone know what part number I need? Thanks!! Andy

That is what I need, thanks!! Do you have a Paypal or something I can pay you with?

I am still looking to replace the entire in-cab e-brake assembly. I need the release handle and all. Let me know what you have... Thanks, Andy

Really? Ok, I guess I need to go take a better look at it. My 96 XJ crawler should be the same I would think. Any clue if you can still get that spring? I'll have to do some digging... Thanks, that would be a MUCH easier fix!!!

I think someone modified the e-brake pedal assy in my MJ to allow the rear end to "drift out" on corners. There are no increments in the pedal when you push it down, and it doesn't lock down either. Anyone have one available? Thanks, Andy

A little OT, but where did you get those interior lights? I really like them.

Need to replace the whole assembly in my drivers door. I am hoping someone here has one that is in good shape locally. I would like to keep the movable one, as the MJ does not have AC, and it really helps with ventilation when driving. Anyone have one from a part out? Thanks, Andy

Hi Gents, I have never seen anyone from the Comanche Club in this area put together a Meet and Greet or wheeling trip or anything, but I wanted to tell those that ARE interested in any of these activities to check out the North Atlantic Chapter forum on NAXJA. We are always doing something in this area dealing with XJ's and MJ's, and make regular runs to Rausch Creek Offroad Park. There is something going on at least once a month. So, if you want to get out and wheel your MJ, or would like to meet up with other XJ/MJ owners, check out the NAC. If you have any questions about NAXJA, you can PM me either on here or over there. Thanks, Andy

I actually met you when I walked up to talk to Bruce at the show. Don't remember the Waggie, but I did see your MJ around C-ville a few times, still have it? I have both an MJ and an XJ. A.

Cut the stud completely off the plate, re-drill it for a 1/2" bolt and slip one of those metal collars into the shock bushing, and bolt it on there. You could weld the bolt to the u-bolt plate to give it a little more rigidity.

I would say it probably means you need to bench-bleed your master cylinder. You have air trapped somewhere, unless a fitting is loose, but you would see fluid leaking out if that was the case.

I'll tell you exactly what it is.... :brows: There is a control unit UNDER the ignition coil on the pass side fender. It has two plugs that plug into it on the side that faces the engine. Remove the coil and remove this control unit and look at the filling epoxy on the underside of it (yes, its epoxy although it doesn't look like it). If there are ANY cracks in that epoxy, that is your problem. The electronics encased in that epoxy are not sealed from the outside elements any longer, and fail when the control unit becomes heat-soaked. I had this EXACT same problem with my 87 MJ. It would run for approx. 10-15 minutes, then would die and NOT restart until it had cooled down. I replaced the CPS and the coil, and then went down to the Advanced Auto Parts below my house to investigate how much the pickup was for the distributor. I was talking to this young kid that works there about the problem (he has an MJ too, and had the same problem) and he told me about this control unit. He said exactly what I said above. If there are any cracks in the epoxy, the control unit is bad. I replaced it and problem solved!!! I consider myself an expert in diagnosing these Jeeps.... and I learned something new that day!! :yes: So try that, I bet it fixes your problem too.