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AvianFlu

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  1. AvianFlu
    I’ll check this tonight and get back with you all. Thanks.
  2. AvianFlu
    It doesn’t keep running when I give it gas, I could do a bit more testing with it though. I don’t think that my fuel pump even has a check valve.
  3. AvianFlu
    Hey guys, I have a bit of a weird issue. When I try to start my Comanche, it’ll go up to 2000 rpm then immediately stall. It does this continuously if I just hold the key. Any ideas? I’ve already bypassed the ballast resistor & cleaned my grounds. I have an issue with my fuel where my fuel pressure will immediately drop off if it is not cranking. I do get fuel at the Schrader valve when priming & when cranking, but it will almost immediately drop off. IMG_8803.MOV
  4. AvianFlu
    Does C139_A have to ground onto the fuel pump assembly? I grounded it onto the frame. I know that it's supposed to ground onto the pump assembly originally. I'm going to need to solder a new connection onto the assembly to ground it on there.
  5. AvianFlu
    Any easy way for me to test the open circuit? On testing continuity between C139_A & B, looks like I'm getting 25 ohms, which seems about accurate to the amount in the tank.
  6. AvianFlu
    I guess C139_B is the problem then? I tested C139_A and get 0 ohms on both ends when backprobing then touching a good ground. Testing B+ on C139_C gets 12v. According to these tests, it should be working, right? What can I do from this point to further isolate the problem?
  7. AvianFlu
    I wasn't planning on swapping out C139_B for a ground, I'm just sharing what I found. C139_A is as it should be. I haven't messed with it outside of the testing. I could buy a new housing unit, but is there no way for me to fix this?
  8. AvianFlu
    Here is what I have after swapping new pump, no change directly, but I did confirm that it works. I tested with a battery directly, I hooked up negative to C139_B & B+ to C139_C. Pump ran. Pump does not run with negative connected to C139_A (ground). I had someone else turn to key to ON while I held C139_B on a ground, and held an alligator clip between the connections on C139_C, and the pump ran. So essentially, the pump just runs when the fuel gauge sender is grounded. I know all of the wires inside the pump are correct, should I just cut off C139 and connect the wires myself?
  9. AvianFlu
    You're going to regret getting rid of it. DO NOT SELL IT.
  10. AvianFlu
    I tried testing the pump again after I took it out tonight, directly with the battery, and got nothing at all. I'll order a replacement part today. I'm hopeful it was just the pump dying out, as when I took the pump out this last time, fuel came out from the hoses, but I never heard the pump once, and I hadn't run it with the battery at all at that point. I'm finding it likely it was always just too weak to really push the fuel unless you gave it the juice straight from the battery.
  11. AvianFlu
    I repaired C139_A, I created a ground and used an eyelet and a bolt to secure it. I also cleaned up the ground behind the tail light a bit more. I'm still getting nothing from the fuel pump. I backprobed C139_A on both ends and got very close to 0 ohms on both sides. (around 0.03 usually). I did my testing solo so I didn't crank while backprobing, but I don't believe it makes a difference I'm assuming. Really at a loss of what to do at this point. I can attach photos I took of the fuel pump, but everything looked normal. Should I get another gauge cluster at this point? I mentioned before that the fuel gauge is missing, could this have anything to do with the problem? Should I just stop messing with it and buy another pump?
  12. AvianFlu
    I only have one battery so I've only tested the fuel pump & engine separately. If you mean that I've cranked the vehicle in the start position, yes.
  13. AvianFlu
    I'm waiting to test since it's raining right now, but I think(?) I may have found the problem, would like your thoughts. I took the fuel pump out, and all of the wires seemed to be hooked up correctly. I cleaned up all of the connections with a steel brush, there was a lot of white powder on any metal parts of the pump. What I think was the problem, is that the connector on the level sender was very close to the assembly. I believe that this may have been grounding on there, causing my issue. Part of what makes me think this is that there was some purple coloration in that area. I did run the sender dry on accident for a few seconds once when I didn't have enough fuel in the tank, might have happened then. I've moved the connector about 90 degrees further away.
  14. AvianFlu
    I see. Another note would be that I do not have a fuel level gauge at the moment, it's missing from my gauge cluster. Is it possible that this is causing a problem?
  15. AvianFlu
    I’ve done some further testing tonight and here’s what I’ve done: created a ground for C139_A, then tested and got around 0.8 ohm. Tried to start by holding the cable on the new ground and got nothing. I re-tested my pump with the battery and it still works, but I’m not sure it’s hooked up correctly. To start it, I had to hook B+ to C139_C, then B- to C139_B. Shouldn’t I have to hook it up as B+ to C139_C & B- to C139_A?
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