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AvianFlu

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Everything posted by AvianFlu

  1. AvianFlu
    I’ll check this tonight and get back with you all. Thanks.
  2. AvianFlu
    It doesn’t keep running when I give it gas, I could do a bit more testing with it though. I don’t think that my fuel pump even has a check valve.
  3. AvianFlu
    Hey guys, I have a bit of a weird issue. When I try to start my Comanche, it’ll go up to 2000 rpm then immediately stall. It does this continuously if I just hold the key. Any ideas? I’ve already bypassed the ballast resistor & cleaned my grounds. I have an issue with my fuel where my fuel pressure will immediately drop off if it is not cranking. I do get fuel at the Schrader valve when priming & when cranking, but it will almost immediately drop off. IMG_8803.MOV
  4. AvianFlu
    Does C139_A have to ground onto the fuel pump assembly? I grounded it onto the frame. I know that it's supposed to ground onto the pump assembly originally. I'm going to need to solder a new connection onto the assembly to ground it on there.
  5. AvianFlu
    Any easy way for me to test the open circuit? On testing continuity between C139_A & B, looks like I'm getting 25 ohms, which seems about accurate to the amount in the tank.
  6. AvianFlu
    I guess C139_B is the problem then? I tested C139_A and get 0 ohms on both ends when backprobing then touching a good ground. Testing B+ on C139_C gets 12v. According to these tests, it should be working, right? What can I do from this point to further isolate the problem?
  7. AvianFlu
    I wasn't planning on swapping out C139_B for a ground, I'm just sharing what I found. C139_A is as it should be. I haven't messed with it outside of the testing. I could buy a new housing unit, but is there no way for me to fix this?
  8. AvianFlu
    Here is what I have after swapping new pump, no change directly, but I did confirm that it works. I tested with a battery directly, I hooked up negative to C139_B & B+ to C139_C. Pump ran. Pump does not run with negative connected to C139_A (ground). I had someone else turn to key to ON while I held C139_B on a ground, and held an alligator clip between the connections on C139_C, and the pump ran. So essentially, the pump just runs when the fuel gauge sender is grounded. I know all of the wires inside the pump are correct, should I just cut off C139 and connect the wires myself?
  9. AvianFlu
    You're going to regret getting rid of it. DO NOT SELL IT.
  10. AvianFlu
    I tried testing the pump again after I took it out tonight, directly with the battery, and got nothing at all. I'll order a replacement part today. I'm hopeful it was just the pump dying out, as when I took the pump out this last time, fuel came out from the hoses, but I never heard the pump once, and I hadn't run it with the battery at all at that point. I'm finding it likely it was always just too weak to really push the fuel unless you gave it the juice straight from the battery.
  11. AvianFlu
    I repaired C139_A, I created a ground and used an eyelet and a bolt to secure it. I also cleaned up the ground behind the tail light a bit more. I'm still getting nothing from the fuel pump. I backprobed C139_A on both ends and got very close to 0 ohms on both sides. (around 0.03 usually). I did my testing solo so I didn't crank while backprobing, but I don't believe it makes a difference I'm assuming. Really at a loss of what to do at this point. I can attach photos I took of the fuel pump, but everything looked normal. Should I get another gauge cluster at this point? I mentioned before that the fuel gauge is missing, could this have anything to do with the problem? Should I just stop messing with it and buy another pump?
  12. AvianFlu
    I only have one battery so I've only tested the fuel pump & engine separately. If you mean that I've cranked the vehicle in the start position, yes.
  13. AvianFlu
    I'm waiting to test since it's raining right now, but I think(?) I may have found the problem, would like your thoughts. I took the fuel pump out, and all of the wires seemed to be hooked up correctly. I cleaned up all of the connections with a steel brush, there was a lot of white powder on any metal parts of the pump. What I think was the problem, is that the connector on the level sender was very close to the assembly. I believe that this may have been grounding on there, causing my issue. Part of what makes me think this is that there was some purple coloration in that area. I did run the sender dry on accident for a few seconds once when I didn't have enough fuel in the tank, might have happened then. I've moved the connector about 90 degrees further away.
  14. AvianFlu
    I see. Another note would be that I do not have a fuel level gauge at the moment, it's missing from my gauge cluster. Is it possible that this is causing a problem?
  15. AvianFlu
    I’ve done some further testing tonight and here’s what I’ve done: created a ground for C139_A, then tested and got around 0.8 ohm. Tried to start by holding the cable on the new ground and got nothing. I re-tested my pump with the battery and it still works, but I’m not sure it’s hooked up correctly. To start it, I had to hook B+ to C139_C, then B- to C139_B. Shouldn’t I have to hook it up as B+ to C139_C & B- to C139_A?
  16. AvianFlu
    I think I've found the issue, but I'm not sure the best way to remedy it. From pictures I've seen, it looks like C139_A(BLK) should ground out on the pump itself. However, mine is just hanging loose. I tried to ground it by just holding it on the pump test, but still didn't get any power. I tested continuity on the ground cable (which is just a loose copper wire at this point) on the tank and did not get any beep. I tested with the ground I used in the cab and did have continuity. I had continuity on one of the fuel rails, so I held the wire onto it to try and test but still did not get any power to the pump. My question at this point would be: do I need a new fuel tank for that ground, or is there any place under the bed that I could ground on, or add a ground to?
  17. AvianFlu
    Backprobed on C139_C, 12v during prime, 10v during crank with and without being connected to fuel pump. It did seem like the voltage went up for a little bit less time when the pump was connected, but not much, around .5 seconds. Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor is still bypassed.
  18. AvianFlu
    After testing, C139_C is getting 12v during prime, 10v during crank. On testing continuity, I had good continuity on C139_A on engine side, but could not get any beep when testing C139_A on the fuel pump side. Is there where my problem is?
  19. AvianFlu
    Sorry for the late reply, I had to let the battery charge all of yesterday. Upon testing today, I was getting 10-11v on C157_F (Engine) when cranking & 12v when the key was turned to ON. This is with the ballast resistor bypassed with a paperclip in between the two connectors. I did my testing with the fuel pump relay plugged in, I can jumper the relay and test again if needed. I did not get anything from the IP side of the harness, only from where the harness comes in from the engine. Should I have any voltage on IP side when it isn't plugged into the engine side?
  20. AvianFlu
    It looks like I am not getting B+ at C157_F. I was only able to test a few times because the battery died (I've been cranking on it for a while now trying to figure this out.) I tested engine & IP, not seeing any voltage. To clarify, as I'm terrible with electrical testing, I'm probing C157_F with the positive probe, and grounding the ground probe on a clean spot of the door. Will this give me accurate enough results? Sorry for needing to be spoonfed but this is all new to me.
  21. AvianFlu
    Hey Ohm, thanks for the response. Here are the results from the tests: D1_5: 12.4v D2_4: 11.98v D1_6: 12.1v These results are all from key ON, I didn't test with crank. D1_6 Was hot for only the few seconds. Please let me know where we can continue from here. Thank you!
  22. AvianFlu
    Would appreciate any help that can be given, I've been pulling my hair out on this. I have never been good with electrical stuff, and I recently purchased a '89 Comanche with the fuel tank out of it. I hooked up the fuel tank and tried to start the truck, but the fuel pump will not prime or pump when cranking. I've cleaned all grounds, swapped my relays around, bypassed the ballast resistor by setting a paperclip between the connectors, and still have nothing. The pump works when setting the battery up directly to the pump. I set a paperclip between the 30 & 87 on the fuel pump relay, and still nothing. I checked the ground behind the tail lamp, and even cleaned it up, but still have nothing. I tested the rear lights and they work so I don't think the harness back there is part of the problem. I attempted to test voltage at the connector right before it plugs into the pump, and got 12v during the prime. I'm not sure I tested it right, so any guidance is helpful. I am getting 12v at the starter relay fuel pump ballast terminal connection. I looked at the fusible link on the starter relay fuel pump ballast terminal & it appeared to be fine, I was also getting 12.4v at the link. I'm sure I might be leaving some things out, so please ask any questions and I'm happy to answer. I'm really at a loss of what to do at this point. Any advice or guidance?
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