Boots

Is that seriously what they do for all the Cash for clunkers cars? :eek:

I think there might be little clip things on the sides that have to be pushed in or pulled out for it to come apart. Know what I'm talking about? Kinda like most of the other connectors have. I could be wrong though. :wrench:

This place makes them also. http://www.softopper.com/Softopper_Model__TN73C-details.aspx?TruckDetails=1986-1992%20Jeep%20Comanche%2073%20inches

:agree:

I had a whole new one made...

In JP magazine they put a newer 6 speed in an 89 MJ. :wrench:

THANKS :bowdown:

Now that you mention it, I don't think that the nut was any further up with the old one. But I could have sworn that there was a much smaller gap between the arm and the steering box housing. Maybe the new arm is thinner, I will compare it to the old one later. Thanks :wrench: Chad

Anyone? Do you think it should go further or not worry about it? Thanks Chad

I put on my new drop pit man arm and torqued it to what my Haynes manual said (around 180 foot pounds). I feel like the arm should go up the shaft on the steering box further though. What do you guys think? Thanks Chad

can you drill a hole in the bolt and use a small lock? or use a cable that can be put through the bolt and locked? Or you can make a new bolt out of a piece of all thread and a locking lug nut. Then you just use the key and your lug wrench to remove it. That would also work for your High Lift Jack mount as well. It actually is a piece of all thread with a nut welded on. I thought of the locking lug nut thing, but I want to figure out something a little more secure. And I feel like it would look weird sticking up that far. Don't really want to have to crawl under the truck to unlock it either.... Thanks for all the ideas. Chad

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21018&start=0 Look on the first page. :thumbsup:

Isn't there more than one shade of Olive Drab?

Finished my spare tire mount... When I take it out, there's only a 1/2" hole in the bed. The bottom piece stays in though. The bolt is the same size as the lug nuts. Still need to figure out a way to lock it. What do you guys think? Thanks Chad

I used my stock shaft when I did my dana 44 swap. Mine cane out of an MJ but it should be the same. I now have a lift and new shaft but I ran it at stock height with the stock shaft for about a year.

Over all how hard would you say that it was to do the entire dana 44 swap? Including narrowing and all that. I have a dana 44 rear and a front one would sure be nice. Oh, and I really really like your Comanche. Thanks :wrench: Chad

I think that there was a funny shaped clip that held the fork onto the little ball. Pretty sure that it was a pain in the butt to put on too. Thanks Chad

I found this out the hard way after every thing was apart. The nv3550 uses a "non bleedable" slave/master cylinder setup. I used the whole thing from the 2001 xj mine came out of. I had to modify the firewall and how it attaches to the pedal, but it wasn't that hard. The assembly has three parts; the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the special hose that connects them together. They don't use threaded fittings. They just slide in and have a little pin that holds them together. You can buy the parts individually or as one complete assembly that is pre-bled. I had to get a new slave cylinder because the old one was missing the rod. I managed to bleed it by submerging the whole thing in fluid and playing with it until all the air was out. Talk about a big mess... I believe Advanced Adapters (or maybe it was Novak??) makes a clutch system for it that used a normal set up. I had to trim a the opening in the tranny hump. Wasn't a big deal, still need to make a new shifter boot though. The shifter still fits in the center console fine. You will need the cross member and mount from a xj with an nv3500, I had to drill holes for the extra brackets some mj's have. I believe you will also need a special pilot bushing. I have no idea what size or what mine is supposed to go to because my dad went and got it while i was working on something else. I got the clutch kit for the 88 and ended up throwing away a bunch of the parts, like the internal slave and such. I think that we concluded that we should have used the 01 clutch kit, supposed to be a stronger clutch anyways. Might want to do some more research on that though. If you get a shifter, make sure it had the little bushing things on the ends of the rods, you should know what I mean when you look at it. I'm happy to answer any other questions you have. thanks Chad

How come you made them so long? Wouldn't you want them to be closer to the axle? Not trying to be smart, just asking.

:agree: I'm using a np231 from a TJ and I just took the cable one out of my old t-case and slid it in to the newer one.

Ever heard of degreaser? :rotfl2:

Thanks

Last time I used Super clean or something like that. It was in a purple jug and the degreaser was purple too. It worked really good, should have worn gloves, my hands peeled for like a week. I've found that a brush of some kind makes a huge difference, and warm water instead of cold. I power wash my 88 4.0 liter engine bay every couple months it seems like, I've never had any sort of problems with the electronics. I would suggest making sure that your fuse block isn't leaking so you don't open your door to a puddle of water. :wrench:

Just figured out how to convert a Tiff to a JPEG... Self portrait I don't usually like to brag, but... Of all the local high schools. :D Edit: Does it look ginormous to every body else too? Sometimes they come out smaller on my dad's laptop.