Boots

Milwaukee all the way... I've used a lot of the different brands but my toolboxes are full of Milwaukee 12volt and 18volt. The tools have a 5 year warranty and the batteries have a 3 year warranty. If you use them everyday you might look into the Fuel series, they're lighterweight and have brushless motors so they have more power and use less battery. I've used Makita and they were alright, but I wasn't overly impressed. Dewalt is atleast as popular in the construction industry as Milwaukee, I don't think they feel as durable though. I used a friends Ridgid impact and drill a few weeks ago, and I have a Ridgid chop saw for cutting steel, and I will never buy another Ridgid tool. We used to have a craftsman drill in our travel trailer for odd things while camping and that thing was just about worthless, but maybe they are different now.

I loved driving my manual Comanche. It came with the puke goat tranny and I swapped in an nv3550 which is pretty similar to the ax15. They don't have super long shift throws like older truck. I've never driven an automatic Comanche but my sister has an automatic 2000 cherokee and the Comanche was more fun to drive in my opinion. My dad used to always take my MJ instead of his f350 when i wasn't using it because he liked driving it.

Or should it be set to REAR/REAR and the sub is controlled by the amp and the head doesn't even know it exists?

The amp is grounded to the body, and pretty poorly at that. So we'll have to fix that.. The head gives me three options for SP-P/O MODE (rear output and preout setting) •REAR/SUB.W- select when there is a full range speaker connected to the rear speaker leads output and there is a subwoofer connected to the RCA output. •SUB.W/SUB.W- select when there is a subwoofer connected directly to the rear speaker leads output without any auxiliary amp and there is a subwoofer connected to the RCA output. •REAR/REAR- select then there is a full range speaker connected to the rear speaker leads output and the RCA out put From what I understand the only option that allows for rear speakers and a sub is REAR/SUB.W. But it says the rear speakers have to be connected to the rear speaker output leads, not the RC plugs. Shouldn't there just be four RC cables running to the amp? That's how it was setup before... Except they had adapters that tied into the speaker wires from the head and adapted them to the RC cables.

I forgot to add that before we put in the new head unit the rear speakers didn't work sometimes.

I haven't posted on here in a while, but this is the best forum and I figure somebody must know about stereos on here. Here we go. I bought my dad a new deck for his 2006 f250 crew cab for his birthday. It's a Pioneer fh-x700btf. I've installed a few decks before no problem, but not this time. When he bought the truck it already had an Eclipse EA3532 amp and a sub (don't know anything about the sub) with the factory head unit. We wired up the new head unit and now when the sub is connected to the amp the speakers(not the sub) make a bad noise, I don't know how to describe it. With the sub disconnected and the key in the aux position the speakers work but it doesn't seem like the amp is doing anything.With the sub disconnected and the key in the on position the speakers work but there is very noticeable interference and it doesn't seem like the amp is doing anything. The only thing different in the wiring is that the old head unit didn't have RC plugs so they used adapter things, we ditched those and plugged the RC cables right into the head unit. Anybody have any idea what's going on here? Are the new head unit and amp not compatible? Did something happen to the amp? Any help is appreciated

Was at the moss landing pick n pull (California). There's a white 4 cylinder manual 2wd mj in the yard. It has a straight rear bumper that I'm pretty sure isn't factory but still looks at home on it. Good tail lights. Straight tailgate. See the pictures for what ever else..

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0908_axletech_bolt_on_portal_axles_dana_60_14_bolt/

Ya, I'm cursed now.... I'm sure that I will have another at some point, it just won't quite be the same. Honestly though, my mom and dad seemed more upset as it was pulling away than I did. I will always remember it as it was not only my first mj but also my first car. I forgot to mention that the guy who bought it already had two Comanches. :yes: Thanks Chad

I sold my Manche.... :( It went to another jeep family. I told them about the club but I don't know if they will join or not, hopefully they will. I'm still going to stop in every so often to see whats up. Thanks Chad

Very cool :wrench:

I was sort of wondering about the fin on the back... Mine and yours look similar in the snout area but the brain part look completely different. How big is yours? Mabe mine is from a younger one? I hope I didn't find some ones old pet.... But I don't think I've ever pet a dog with a fin on its head.... :dunno:

I have to agree. :thumbsup:

Was exploring down on the property a couple days ago and found this sitting perfectly on the ground. I'm assuming it's a coyote. What do you all think?

:rotf: now I see..

If its windy enough when we go camping at the lake we usually have a bunch of kites tied to random crap flying them selves. Then the wind dies for a few seconds and we get to go put them all up again... Lol. Any body else ever put a kite on a fishing pole?

My dad used Herculiner in the bed of his truck. They told him to clean the metal with xylene, it evaporates and doesn't leave any residue.

Sorry for the confusion... The new TPS seems to have fixed it. The rough idle smoothed out a lot, and the high idle seems to have disappeared. The only time it has had the high idle since the new TPS was the first time I started it right after installing it. Since then it has been fine. Thanks Chad

I think a drop down tail gate would be way more functional.

It seemed to be running better today. No high idle and it seems to have smoothed out. The rough idle always seemed to be there but the high idle was very inconsistent and happened randomly. thanks Chad

So it hasn't done it since the beginning of this week, but was still idling rough. I just replaced the TPS with a brand new one and adjusted it properly. Started it up and the idle went right up again, and stayed there. After a few second I unplugged the TPS and it dropped right downtown normal, then I plugged it back in. It stayed at normal idle speed but was a little rough. I shut it down about a minute later then started it right back up, it started up like it should have. :nuts: I'm going to drive it for a few days and see how it acts, I'm not sure what else to do at this point... It has also been idling rough for a while now, but in the last week or so it has been worse. Sometimes when I come up to a stop sign and let off the gas the rpm continue to go down past were they should. Last night I had to take my sister her spare key. when I backed out of the drive way and made a 270 degree turn all at once and came to a stop, the rpm went all the way down to zero on the tach and it barely came back up to normal after I pressed the throttle. What do you guys think? Thanks Chad

That link has tons of information! Thanks! Ya, it pretty much sucks having to deal with the poison oak. My property would be awesome for paint ball but nobody ever wants to come over after I mention the poison oak. Its nice when I go to somebody else's property and I can just go crashing through the brush and not worry about it. Lol Thanks Chad

It would make a sweet lawn ornament. :banana:

Covered with pudding