Boots

I have an nv3550 in mine and I like it. :wrench:

I think that mine might have plugged into the yellow box under the dash. I could be wrong though.

looks like a nice donor for a 97+ swap :D

Were certain years recalled? How do we know if it was fixed?

looks like another type of bender to me.

I drive mine to school 5 days a week. Take care of it and it will take care of you.

I just sealed up around mine about a week ago with dumb dumb, not sure what the real name for it is. Now the water is coming through the actual fuse block, not around it. Any body else have this problem? Thanks Chad

I remember reading that you could make the side marker lights flash with the turn signals. Does any body have a link or remember how to do it? Thanks :wrench: Chad

Check the ballast resistor on the drivers side fender under the hood. The ceramic thing with two wires connected to it, make sure there aren't any cracks...

Not sure why, but I love the look of your truck.

That's the axle I swapped into mine. It's a good axle and that's not a bad price either.

Won't the check valve prevent air from being able to travel back in to the axle?

Bump :wrench:

All of the ones I've seen have them...

Mine didn't come with the fan from the factory so I don't have the relay on the drivers side fender. My relay is on the Passenger side fender along with some nasty wiring. I would like to reuse the factory wiring if possible. I'm guessing that there is a wire harness that plugs into this plug that would hook up to the relay, fan, and temp switch???? Image Not Found Image Not Found Or is the factory wiring not even going to be there? Thanks Chad

So I can completely eliminate the Heater control valve with no side effects, right? I don't need to get a HO thermostat housing but I do need to make sure the radiator has the bung for the temp switch, right? Every thing else seems pretty straight forward now as far as the cooling system swap. For the fan though, any body got a wiring diagram? My dad had a laser temp gun so I'm gonna try comparing that with the dash gauge. I live in Larkin Valley, I guess it's been pretty good. Thanks Chad

specs: 1988 4.0 Liter NV3550 aftermarket A/C Closed cooling system First, I want to upgrade to the open cooling system but have some other issues that I need to figure out before I start taking stuff apart. It has a new water pump and thermostat already installed. So I need a new radiator and some sort of over flow bottle, Correct? What would you guys recommend for a radiator? What do I need to do to the heater control valve things? What will I need as far as hoses? Anything else I need to do? Second, the aftermarket A/C wiring is horrible. There is a relay/fuse on the passenger side fender and a wire running across the top of the radiator support thing. I would like to redo most of this so that it is like factory, What all is involved? Should there be factory wiring already there? Third, I'm assuming that the aux. fan was installed with the A/C because it only comes on with the A/C. I want it to come on like factory, with the A/C, at a certain temp, and I also want a switch in the cab. I'm going to need to get a HO thermostat housing and temp. switch, right? Is there any factory wiring already there? Fourth, My temp gauge never seems to go past 155 degrees. It pegs while the engine is cranking and slowly goes up as the engine is warming up, but always sits right at 155 while running. Yesterday we took a long drive in heat atleast in the high 90's, and on top of that, I was driving up some really big hills in fourth gear at around 75mph. The coolant pressure bottle thing swelled up like a balloon and started forming a crack, but luckily didn't burst. The temp gauge didn't didn't even creep up a little. Am I being paranoid or is some thing wrong here? What should I check or replace? I know that this is alot, but all help is greatly appreciated. :wrench: Thanks Chad

There should be an exhaust hanger of some sort near or on the cross member. I would check that first to see if it needs replacing. :wrench:

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Right now I have a Rough Country 4.5" lift with the stock steering. I bought this track bar then I bought the kit; http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-adjustable-track-bar_7572.html . But the stupid joint wore out after about three weeks :fs1: . So, now they are shipping me this one; http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_1079.html. Since the track bar has a drop bracket I need to drop the steering linkage too, right? Aren't the track bar and the steering linkage supposed to be some what parallel? Thanks Chad

Are all drop pitman arms created equal? Should any be avoided for certain reasons? Thanks Chad

I decided against rhino lining mine because the floor isn't flat, just something to consider.

Every one can feel free to post up how they have theirs mounted. Thanks Chad

My dad does sheet metal fabrication and I would use either 18 or 16 Gauge. 16 would probably be a little easier to weld.