fiatslug87

There's a stop light switch connected to the back of the brake pedal and when it's depressed the switch completes the circuit lighting up the brake lights. I'm sure that's your problem. I had problems with NAPA stop light switches but good luck with ones from Federated Auto Parts. It's a very easy replacement, just make sure you remember the order/location of all the bits you remove.

If you're getting a compatible cluster there shouldn’t be any other wiring requirement for the fuel gauge. There are two ribbon connectors that plug into the back of the cluster that take care of everything. You might have to move the bulbs around in the "message center" to match your configuration however.

Check your EGR valve (I assume you have a pre '91). Mine would stick causing the MJ to bog down while accelerating.

I didn't replace the clutch in my '90 until 202,000 miles (I'm the original owner so I know it hadn't been replaced) . The problem was actually that the slave cylinder was leaking very badly. The mechanic told me the clutch plate was still fine and was very surprised it was original, but as Eagle stated, if it's already apart the plate might as well be replaced.

Wouldn't it only be accurate if the markings are in the same places as the original?

I just measured the center holes of my spare set of stock Eliminator wheels (10 hole) and they are ~59mm (2.32 in).

Well, I like the ones from NAPA PN 718023(+) & 718024(-) they're the perfect lengths with non-lead clamps. I can see some people not liking the clamps, but they're fine by me. The on-line price is whacked, mine were less than half that ($15.89 & $10.59) maybe still a bit high though.

I just put a piece of plywood between the springs and foam. Not very comfortable for long rides but I sit up OK, it was cheap and it's temporary.

Looks like my '90 which is Spinnaker Blue Metallic Clearcoat (code PB3).

actually my brake light came on in my 89 and my bro was drivign, he pulled over and the rear-brakes side of the MC was EMPTY... it senses pressure in the system. but it does work with my e-brake too. however when that happened the e-brake on/off made no difference. My mistake, I've had leaking brake cylinders and very low fluid in my master cylinder with no brake light warning so I didn't think it was prognostic. I just checked the FSM and it says “the light is used to alert the driver if a pressure differential exists between the front and rear hydraulic systems.” Does this indicate a problem with your combination proportioning valve/brake switch? The FSM also says this part is not serviceable.

That light indicates your parking brake is engaged, not the functioning of your brakes, but it sounds like it's a short or loose connection somewhere. Track the wiring from the parking brake and check for loose connections or frayed insulation, these are the hardest to find unless really obvious. I had a similar issue with my fuel pump, when I slammed the door it would/would not work and I found a loose connection right by the parking brake, coincidentally.

Well I actually like the older look and can get the whole '86 truck for $250.

Will the front fenders, header panel and associated parts from an '86 MJ bolt right into an '89 MJ. I think they will but just want confirmation from someone who really knows. My '89 was just hit so I need to replace the whole front end and have a line on an '86 as a donor. Thanks.

Nice long bed, how about one in red? Thanks.

I think the 3911 is Ring/Pinion gear tooth combination 39-ring/11-pinion which gives you a 3.55:1 axle ratio. OOPS too late!!!

You might have to remove the grill but not the front clip. I'd remove the grill. it makes it easier to ensure you're drilling straight into the bolt. When you use the easy out, make sure you put a nice punch mark in the center of the bolt so your bit doesn't walk. Also use some sort of lubricant while drilling and drill slowly. Did you break it during re-install? To answer your original question: Water pump bolts- 13 ft-lbs (18 nM) Fan nuts- 18 ft-lbs (24 nM) Good luck.

Anyone have a white one or a light blue one?

Here are what my titles say: 1990 MJ - AMER (bought this one new) 1989 MJ - JPEG (???) 1988 MJ - AMER

The '89 and '90 FSMs are very similar, two volumes each (Electrical & Body/Engine) with much of the text/diagrams being identical. Both were "published" by Chrysler, don't know what AMC's manuals look like.

I recommend cutting off the end of the extension past the ball bearing and squaring off the shaft. I tried the easy way of just grinding off two adjacent sides but it was too weak and it broke.

Roughly 1 1/8" x 3 1/4"

Cheap? Where and how much?

Here's the link for the mounted hitch pictures. http://home.comcast.net/~fiatslug87/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html

According to the Crown Automotive catalog, there are some differences. Some parts are listed as 1986-Nov 5, 1988 and Nov. 6, 1988-1999. I've posted the Crown explosion diagram and parts list if you're interested: http://home.comcast.net/~fiatslug87/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html

Draw Tite makes one which fits either long or short bed but says with factory installed step bumper only (as Pete mentioned). The part number is 75021, I'll post a link with pictures of it installed.