jeepthing07

You can just drill out the yokes on the D35's to accept u-bolts. i don't think you can do it on the D30 though. http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/aub.html

I can only wish Toyota would buy the Jeep name. A reliable Jeep! It would be awesome if Toyota bought Jeep! GM buying Jeep would be worse than what DC has done to the brand in the last few years.

i think it looks better than the old libertys, not that i would buy one

I herd you can brush on por15 lay down fiberglass mat and brush more over the mat just enough to get it soaked and when it dries its hard as a rock. it should do a good job filling over pin holes

:clapping: :teehee:

Can i bring my 2wd JK? and talk to the people who work for DC about putting a sliding rear door on the JKL

not worth the price its closed knuckle and small spline if i remember right. you could get a better D60 alot cheaper

I orderd a HD steel fork from them for my NP231 and they sent me a aluminum one like i allready had :headpop:

Mine were painted... and it was a 89 2wd Pioneer. I threw them away and going flareless

http://web.archive.org/web/200609082025 ... barns.com/

Renix has a knock sensor in the side of the block also and the 2000+ 4.0's have problems with heads cracking

if just the top of its rusted out you can fix it with XJ front or rear fenders i cut the rears out of a parts XJ and they fit good.

I would really like to get to the bottom of this cause no one seems to really know the deal on the concaved flywheels. I have been looking up Part numbers on www.partsamerica.com and it seems once the 4.0's/2.5's went MPFI the flywheel changed maybe they are the only ones with the concaved surface? I'm pretty sure the renix and HO starters are the same so it probably has the same amount of teeth on the ring gear. The part #'s listed are for 4.0 flywheels are.... 1988 MJ Part No. 501004 1990 MJ Part No. 501004 1991 YJ Part No. 501002 1992 YJ Part No. 501002 1993 YJ Part No. 501002 1994 YJ Part No. 501002 1995 XJ Part No. 501002 And Part #'s for 2.5 flywheels... 1989 MJ Part No. FRA118 1990 MJ Part No. FRA118 1991 MJ Part No. 501008 1992 MJ Part No. 501008 1993 YJ Part No. 501008 1994 YJ Part No. 501008 1997 TJ Part No. 501008 1999 TJ Part No. 501008 I don’t know if this proves anything but I thought it was kind of interesting. I'm guessing you could get away machining the Pre '91 flywheels.

I can only speak from my ONE experience in the other flywheel post... I have read on other forums it was machined concaved for softer clutch engagement. I think the reason machining causes problems is because the flex plate must have been machined to match the concaved flywheel. But I really don’t know what’s causing my clutch issue since I not only did the clutch but swapped in a NV4500 at the same time.

D35's have the sleeve its $3 http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?pid=42102 no one makes a crush sleve eliminator for it. you could have a machine shop make one and use shims for the D30.

You have to find a punch that’s just a little smaller than the hole the roll pin is in. If you use a screwdriver and the end fits inside the roll pin the force of beating on it will just want to flare the roll-pin out not drive it through.

Hi-pinions have shims low pinions have crush sleeves

As far as I know the water pumps are the same (unless the 2.5 ever had V-belts then its not RR), coil is the same, rocker arms are the same I think. I'm fairly sure the timeing cover is the same The starter is different so is the radiator... The MPFI alternators are the same (some 4.0's had a 117 amp). I think the Renix alternators might be different.

The same thing happend to my shifter. I stuck the shifter in a drill press and drilled and taped it. then threaded a 3/8-16 stud into the shaft and stuck a new shift knob on it. i dident get the hole perfectly centerd but it's very strong I'm not worried about it coming off again.

I tried to remove the windshield on my parts XJ for a spare and i ended up breaking it

yes they do but there the stubby ones. I want the ones that i can go clear thru my bumper and weld on both side like these guys: http://www.bulletproofmfg.com/ Big Daddy offroad has them http://bigdaddyoffroad.biz/xcart/produc ... 255&page=1

4.0/nv4500 D35(3.07), 33x12.50's Busted the spider gears dumping the clutch @2500rpm on pavement raceing a S10 cracked the carrier too but it dident hurt the shafts or the R&P. Only time i ever broke one

On my YJ I removed the old perches put it back together with the new perches in place but loose and *hand tightened* the u bolts so I could still move the pinion up and down. Then took it off the stands and tack welded it in place and took it back out and welded them.

Renix? Mine does that sometimes and it’s the lead that runs off the positive battery cable under that black cover on the fender. I don’t know what the things called that it’s hooked to but it takes a 1/2" wrench. try messing with that if it does it again.

From the Factory Service Manual... Flywheel Inspection Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc, cover and housing are removed for service. Check condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth, and flywheel bolts. Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel face can be reduced with 180 grit emery cloth. However, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc contact surface is severely scored, heat checked, cracked, or obviously worn. Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour that would be negated by machining. However, cleanup of minor flywheel scoring can be performed by hand with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment. Replace the flywheel if scoring is deeper than 0.0762 mm (0.003 inch) . Heavy stock removal by grinding is not recommended. Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation. It can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release I'm am 99% sure thats what screwed my clutch up. I even stuck a washer as a shim under the fork pivot to try to bring the throwout bearing back to where it would have been before it was machined thinking that might have been the problem and it dident help at all. :dunno: