jeepthing07

I have the JD2 but i can't comment on it cause i never bought any dies for it. Too expensive :(

T4/5 is slightly stronger than the AX5. I thought about getting one from a 2.8 S10 and useing it in my comanche but ended up with a free AX5. A T4/5 should bolt to a 2.5 i don't know what spline the t-case is. i don't know where the shifter would come though the floor compared to a AX5 and i don't know what it would do to the length of the driveshafts. to put a AX15 in you would need a bellhousing from a dodge dakota with a 2.5 and the AX15 and i think they are hard to find.

Personally I would stay with the old front end I don’t like the 97+

I bought a pair of 85150's off superlifts ebay store. I was going to stick them on the front after making some upper mount adapters. After makeing the adapters the 85150's were to long for my 4.5-5" lift so i used them on the rear.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... rSeals.htm

It's a solvent its what herculiner says to use before applying herculiner. I had it so thats what i used. It said on the can it could be used to thin rust prevenative paint or something like that so i used it to prep the whole MJ. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylol

What i did... #1 Wash it #2 Roughed up the factory paint with 400 grit to give the spraypaint a rough surface to stick to #3 Wash it again #4 Touched up rusted/no paint areas with POR15 #5 Wiped it down with Xylol #6 Painted it Image Not Found

You don't need to touch the transmission or remove the crank to change the rear main on a 4.0.

I put a Borla exhaust on my 4.0 YJ and it helped allot. the Borla tailpipe is only 2" stock it was 2-1/4.

Loosen all the control arm bolts if you can so everything moves easy. Wedge a 2 foot or so piece of 2x4 between the axle and the steering linkage and use the 2x4 for leverage to move the axle back and forth to align the holes. Worked for me and it was simple

76-77 had different doors. 78-95 doors were basically the same besides the door hinges. 76-77 also had different roll bars.

I did it on a friends 258 the manual said to loosen all the main caps and re-torque them. He hasent had a problem yet with it. We used the double lip seal.

Sounds like the O2 sensor, it should have 4 wires

I have about a 4.5" lift and shocks for a 4" lifted YJ are the closest I have found to fitting mine. I think anything over 5" lift requires an upper mount to change it from a stud to an eyelet. Eyelet shocks come in longer lengths. This is the chart I was going by (because superlift shocks were cheap) but different brand run different lengths. http://www.superlift.com/print/applicat ... kspecs.pdf Upper mount is S1 Lower mount is EB1 #85310 is the longest that will fit stock mounts its 29.78 extended and 17.66 collapsed. Rough country shocks run shorter than that and skyjacker run longer from what I have seen. Another thing...YJ shocks don't come with the bar pin in the lower mount you have to use one off the old shock or something. edit: The YJ skyjacker shock runs a little longer 30.460/17.420 in. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

No

I'm sorry :cry:

Get the double lip seals if you can

the CAD axle's UCA mount won't break i would rather have a CAD axle than a non CAD

i gutted the cat on my 94 4.0 YJ and it ran rich got really bad gas mileage and lost power (and no it did not have a O2 sensor after the cat). So i put in a straight pipe my gas mileage returned and i got my power back. I would never gut a cat again unless you sleeve it with straight pipe.

My friend bought a high flow cat for his 1998 5.9 grand cherokee limited. You could look through it it was a straight shot through. The factory ones you can't it has the ceramic honeycomb/stuff blocking the flow. While the high flow just had it around the walls of the cat. I don't have to get emissions tests so nothing i have has a cat anymore :D

People do it... ATF has alot of detergents in it. its probably gentler and safer than engine flush. I would rather let chunks of carbon/parafine/gunk stick to what its stuck to. Its better than washing it off then running it through engine bearings. I have herd of stories of engines/auto transmission going out ofter being flushed. My friend ran this stuff http://www.auto-rx.com through his 258 now it knocks. If you do flush an engine with anything i would change the filter sevral times after the flush.

No the rear bumper won't fit. who built your bumpers? they are hella ugly if they were black they wouldent looks so bad. same with the rims

All the MPFI 2.5's had aluminum covers they are $120 from the dealer. My plastic one wouldent stop leaking i found a aluminum one off a 94 YJ on ebay for $12 so i grabed it. The front CCV port is a 3/8 NPT fitting and the rear is a 1" hole. I'm going to stick a chrome chevy type filter in the rear intake hole. so i won't have any plastic lines to crack fall apart. Image Not Found

I just got a aluminum 2.5 valve cover for my 89 TBI is yours aluminum? i thought they were all plastic untill the 2.5 got MPFI that AMC logo is awesome!

Guns N' Roses Chinese Democracy is finaly coming out... "Chinese Democracy -- which now has a tentative release date of March 6" Its the most expensive album ever recorded haha... I think i will check it out will anyone else? :popcorn: