skidoo_j

***wow three Oregonians in a row ***

I second SMS headliner. I'm a very happy customer. When it came down to it I priced out redoing my old one vs getting one from sms. I would have saved 50-60 doing it my self, but I had never done it before, wasn't sure of condition of my current backer board, and figured my time was worth something. Sure enough when I removed my old liner the backer was just about powder in a few places and got pretty beat up during removal. If you're set to repair / refinish: Duct tape Fiberglass Cardboard and spray adhesive some rigid plastic. Based on your photo it's broken where the metal clips go so anything you repair it with needs to be pretty stout. The liner will stay in place with out the clips, but I've found it doesnt' rattle with the clips/velcro

Mine get's hit. It knocked the grease zert out.

did you keep the stock proportioning valve then? the one you sent a link to is just one line in one line out valve. So if you kept the stock one and eliminated one line did you plug the correct port? The residual pressure valves are often used in hot rod applications where the master is near level with the brakes, but a few people have used them, Not needed was just to see if it could have been a cause for your issue. was the booster used? sometimes it's the simple things, did you tighten all the bolts holding the booster to the truck well? Was the firewall weak? Do any of your bleeder valves leak?

What brand of adjustable proportioning valve did you use? Does it hold residual pressure to the drums? Are the Cylinders in the drums good? Did you use a new hose from bed to rear axle? What about the the fronts? I'm just proposing ideas, if you did the dual booster upgrade and kept your old rubber hoses maybe they're swelling some...

I've got mine sitting in a box as i put the novak on. Only holding on to it for back up. You'd prolly want to put a new bushing kit in it. Shoot me a pm with an offer and a zip code.

I had read your thread the other day, and was debating on the clifford header or the banks header if mine does turn out cracked. Was there anyway you could have modified the header of intake to keep the oem intake? I thought I read you couldn't use the 99 intake on our blocks? I was originally looking at a '99 intake and trying to figure out if i could adapt my tb to that intake easier.

In the DIy forum there's a page that goes over the stock lengths of drivelines. If you have to order a new one there's probably a local shop near you or you can always get one from tom woods or something similiar. Expect to pay anywhere from 200-400 depending on what you're ordering.

Well I guess it's nice that I found out the dynomax black jack headers hadn't cracked, but rather the paper gasket blew out on the back tube. So now I get to spend 3-4 hours tearing it apart to replace a $2 gasket. Anyone have any recommendations on what to use to seal it so it won't happen again? The only gasket I've found to replace it locally is a felpro, am I better off ordering something different? Any permatex products that i should use along with the gasket?

If your napa is less then autozone that is amazing!!!!! I have to fight with my local napa just to honor their online prices. Hell they even refused to sell me stuff at the online price after I'd reserved it for in store purchase.

just get this... you'll love it. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm Night and day in operation smoothness. Plus it's adjustment is way more direct and it also eliminates popping out of 4x4 due to drivetrain twist. I love mine.

Just placed an order through Devin. Great guy always willing to help. The special on the light is huge, Not something I'm ready for but what a great price.

Jeep AND a dub? Your poor wallet! :rotf: Do miss my little dub though Pretty much. 98 vw gti ginster over run 2.0 with Techtonics cam, neuspeed super charger, underdriven accessories with pulley bro's pulley on the SC running 6psi, neuspeed lowering springs, bilstiens, eurosport tower bars, neuspeed sway bars front rear, eurosport borla exhaust from techtonics, oversized front brakes, zimmerman rears, tsw hockenheim rims. kamei grill, euro bumpers, euro trim down sides. I've spent several shinny pennies on it. 75k original miles

I'd keep the electric switch and get rid of the vacuum disconnect, either convert to a single passenger, lock the collar, or make it a posi-loc with a cable. Wire up the switch to your dash.

Based on my research the Duralast golds are actually better then the new optima. The only benefit the optima has is it's sealed and can go upside down. We bought two of the duralast golds to go in my dads Diesel dodge, they've held up great. And both are holding up very well. In my VW i refused to pay double the price and ended up with a walmart special.

I just installed a '97 np231 and it had a medium input shaft length. The OD's were the same and there was plenty of space in the trans to swallow the extra 1/2". I did replace the seal on the transmission just incase there were slight difference in the running areas of the seals.

Old topic, but I'm in the middle of a zj conversion and I'm at 180 out of pocket and that's with new outer bearings and seals, new pads, new rotors, new retainers, custom made preload shims, and custom made ebrake adapters.

I'd say now that you've posted pics you need to post what's in your build. A few questions come to mind when looking at your rig. The first is what front axle is that, followed by what did you do for a transfercase so you have a passenger side drop? What size tires are those?

It's a standard water pump bearing. I pressed mine out and took it to the local bearing shop for replace. no autoparts stores listed it, but i'm sure if i'd taken it into somewhere like napa they could have replaced it too.

Replaced U-joints and rebuilt a double cardan front drive shaft from an automatic and installed it today. I didn't realize how little room i had left on my stock shaft. (from center to center of the shaft i measured 28 7/8" when I pulled the shaft it's max length was 29").

Wranglers do not have an electric fan which is why they overheat quickly. Replacing the fan is simple and I would hope she could get it done cheaply. Alexia can it be changed with out removing the belt? Are just the 36mm wrench and a 13mm needed to change it? If that's it She maybe able to change her self if one of the autoparts places have the 36mm

This isn't a dating site... She's no model, but she's no cow. So sorry no picture will be posted.

Anyone willing to replace her fan clutch? Atleast that's what I've diagnosed over the phone now. She's doing a couple tests to make sure she's not spewing fluid. While at a light it temp raises about 240, when she starts to move it still stays above the half way mark but she's still in slower traffic. Sounds to me like the clutch fan is dead, and her electric fan is doing it's best. Really looking for someone willing to do this or knowing somewhere that's not going to bend her over again. Somone's gotta be willing to help out a Marine's sister.

Installed Rocky Road Super sliders and Control arms drop brackets. They had them "on sale" in their garage sale listings. I'd say based on every review I've read about them in the past they've changed alot!!!! They sent me missing hardware with little to no fighting. They even sent me a spacer for the sliders that "shouldn't have bee needed". But they sent it anyways. Overall I was very pleased with their customer service and product. I have to admit The brackets are gawdy hanging down there, however the on road driving is night and day more comfortable on my test drive.

I know this was posted well over 2.5 years ago, but I can add some helpful info for both. I did the upgrade on my '88 XJ using a booster and MC combo from a '96 XJ. Did everything just like the tutorials and write up showed. Excellent upgrade for sure. Paired with ZJ rear disc brakes, my 31's can lock up if I need them to. Did the WJ booster and MC on my '86 MJ. Used an XJ proportion valve and changed it over to a standard brake system, removing the load sensing valve. Running stock 225 size tires... Definitely a good upgrade as well. All in all, both were bolt in and required the same amount of work to get them functional. As far as braking improvements goes, both seem about the same, but definitely twice as good as the stock single diaphragm setup. I haven't had the chance to drive my MJ with the WJ booster very much, but can say this for sure: I'd recommend this upgrade to any Jeeper with the crappy factory setup. Can you confirm that the wj required beating the lip of the firewall for clearance vs the 95/96? did both require a shift in the washer fluid res?