Wildman

No, I do believe that the external slave is all one piece, pre-filled, from the master to the slave, that part number I posted is only for the BA10, the AX15 is RAYBESTOS Part # BH38938, and a lot shorter that the BA10 hose.

From your picture, the clutch line has popped, if your slave had blown out, the fluid most likely would be dripping out the front of the tranny. The clutch hose can be bought thru a parts store.......RAYBESTOS Part # BH38935 .............For a Peugeot Transmission (BA10) Which if you have a '88 is your 5 speed tranny. Here's a link to a picture of the hose. It is a pain to replace, but not that hard, note the flair fitting on the line, so use of your 'flair' wrenches should be used. Soak that fitting down with some PB Blaster before you start wrenching. And bleeding of the line after your done replacing it, that where you might need help, with someone pumping the clutch pedal.

Don't know about the wire :dunno: But, what year is your MJ?? From '88 up, there's a Ballast Resistor on the front left fender, common for going out, you can take a paper clip and jump it to check it out- The white ceramic piece, with the orange/ black tracer.

Or.......you could ask one of us if they have an extra aux fan laying around, and save a few $$$ over a new one :roll:

Yea, good to hear you found your MJ :thumbsup: Dang crack heads didn't realize what they had there hands on, a classic vehicle worth more that the $5 stereo they took :razz:

Yea, go for it, you got one good one, and one donor (the blown engine one) but it's not worth the $$$ he's asking, you can find a front axle for less. The only thing bad about the 360 is............it loves to suck up that $4 a gallon juice :cry: but more power than you'll ever need :brows:

I hope you bleed the new slave cylinder???? But the real question is........did you replace the steel / rubber line from the master to the slave???? You know......20 year old rubber........dry rotted, collapsed line :roll: There are 2 clutch kits for the '89......The Aisin Transmission (AX-15) and the Peugeot Transmission (BA-10) which is more likely what you have, the clutchs are Not interchangeable. This could also be your problem. Oh........And Welcome to the ComancheClub :wavey:

I don't have that one #277, but I have #278 which is all body for the MJ. I think the #277 is engine and drive train for the MJ, 1986 edition. If you have the 4 book set for 1989, your all set ;) There is really no major changes from '87-90 for like 5 Jeep models in your set. Still......for $20, it's worth picking up, for the 2.5 and 2.8 :roll: info.

Same as Mr. Hornbrod wrote, I've tried them on my van, and no luck, and at like $10 a piece, I'll do it with the bottle and hose every time, and Yes, I have my shadow help me :D As jaekl wrote, Power Bleeding is about the best way to solve this problem :D But you should use a reservoir can to supply the fluid so you don't run dry.

Yea, the power slider are long gone :cry: But then again......we're dealing with 20 year old trucks. Are you using Urethane to set/seal the slider??? Here's the link for the CRL slider, just PM me and I'll quote you a price.

Cause the seats are out.. + shes a woman and doesn't know how to follow directions.. :hmm: I thought the last time we talked, you were going to get a 5 gallon bucket in there, so you would have real "bucket seats"???? :nanner:

Well......I was referring to what camjeep3 wrote :yes: Chatter could also be from the flywheel having hot spots, we covered this some time ago. The chatter would show up when you pulling off a dead stop, in 1st gear or reverse.......I have it on my DD, only because I didn't change the flywheel last year when I dropped a clutch plate in :roll: And your right.......some times we have to trust others, but we all know, that some of "them" places try to go for the gold when some one pulls in there shop :rant:

Before or after the Make over??????? :rotfl2:

What you have in the picture is an after market slider. Here's a picture of a OEM slider, with the gasket- CRL use to also have a 3 piece slider (after market) and a power slider, but both are discontinued :cry: Just happen to have a picture of one ;) As far as your slider........well, er......not sliding, you need to get something in the track to "lube' it up, I would try spray silicone to try to "soften" the rubber seal first.

Check out Keystone or Continental, last time I checked they were around $35, Yes, after market.......but if you have either place near you, you'll save a ton $$$ on shipping. Oh, and you need to ask for XJ parts, they don't know what a Comanche is :roll:

I'll agree with the One wheel at a time, 1/4" clear line into a bottle, submerged in brake fluid, and pump the brake pedal 6-8 time, close the bleeder, fill master, go to the next wheel. Eagle posted up a long time ago about bleeding the 4 wheels, and then the height leveling valve........I'll see if I can find the post. I'm glad to see you got some one to help you with your MJ project- The only thing is........If your shadow what to help, tell him NO, and find something else for your shadow to do :razz: :shake: Here it is..........4th post down- http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... e+bleeding

Easy answer..........He took it to Cottman Transmission :teehee: Motion is spot on, on his answer :thumbsup: You need to match what year your Transmission is, to get the correct output / input spline count.

Man.........you should have put a better warning on that video...... *Not To Be Viewed Before 7AM* :grrrr: Now I'm awake :oops:

That's good to hear :D You mean the "main" ground on the Passenger side?? Yep, that would kill the engine. You probably got 'spark' from the body ground, enough to light up a test light, but not enough to fire the plugs. Yes........good upgrade ;) You might be able to 'adjust' the door with the 3 screws in each hinge, and some shim plates to get the final results you want on the body lines, that is if your door is not sprung (bent / warped) Next time.........if you want to take out a mail box, use a base ball bat, alot less fixing latter on :brows:

Yea......Congrats on the big win :jump: I guest I owe you some chip dip now ;) With so little news in your paper........I bet you'll make the front page now :D Of course, I know we all just helped a little :brows: Enjoy your make over :yes:

Yes, the wire runs from the dash, thru couple connectors up to that pair of wires with the small connector on it, should have been, like coiled up behind the B pillar trim, and Yes, you need to cut a hole in the back of the cap, to mount the cargo light. All you need is the dash switch and the cargo light :D

On the drivers side??? Yup........Cargo light wire.

Now that's looking better.......couple more weeks, and you'll be catching up to me :D Nice having a place to do some :wrench: ain't it :brows:

I could see the wires getting warm, but not super hot. Could your fan motor be going, and causing too much of a load on the wires???

Just one thing................ :teehee: And yes, I know you will not know if Steph has won until the phone call tomorrow.