Wildman

I started with Spencer about 4 years ago, in fact, the J E E P tailgate detail I got him started on, after I sent him an OEM set, that got "copied" and tried at my expense before they went into production. But, I also bought a OEM Pioneer right decal, that I paid alot for.......and sent it to him, to copied, and flip to make the left side, oh, about 3 years ago.......and........ :dunno: I know, at that time, we had 3-4 people that wanted the Pioneer decals, and......... :roll: So, you might have better luck :dunno: Me, I'm out the decal, and nothing to show for it........well, except a few PM, every few months, that it was getting worked on, he had other projects that had to get done, and his main printing business was always getting in the way........Been about 15 months since I've last hear anything from him :hmm: Like I said, you might have better luck getting a response :D Oh, and I'm glad someone on the board got the Eliminator Decals

:agree: jpnjim is spot on :thumbsup: The D44 is somewhat rare, and to find one, in that price range is a steal :brows: I see D35's w/ 3.07 selling local for that price range :ack: You better be posting tonight with pictures of it sitting in your garage :yes: The only thing sweeter would be to find the 5 pack leaf springs to go with it :brows: But, I have seen D44's with the 4 pack leafs.

PM sent :D

:hmm: There are No wire on the CAD, just vacuum lines. We just went thru this the past week.......check this out, and see if it helps you at all - viewforum.php?f=2&start=25

Just in case you didn't hear........Yesterday (2/12/10) was the first day in history that 49 states had some snow :eek: The only state that didn't........well, your not driving to that one :teehee: You just can't escape the snow this year :headpop:

Should not be a problem.........looks like just a broken blood vessel in you eye. It it don't clear up in a day or two........get it checked out........AT an ophthalmologist's. I don't let Emergency room "attendants" touch my eye's any more after a Bad experience with one :shake: 12 years latter, and still have the scare tissue to prove it :fs1: Of course..........I see the ophthalmologist every 6 months anywho.......for another problem :roll: )Oh.......and I hope you could read this ^(

My DD has the vinyl mat, and I like it :D Actually.....the water sits on top of the vinyl, and does not "wick" in the carpet. Plus it's easy to 'mop' up the water/melted snow with a sponge from the vinyl :brows: Just my 2 cents :roll:

I really don't know 2.5's :oops: But......there is also the EGR Solenoid on the drivers fender. Check this page out, about 1/2 way down is the test for the EGR - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm That Blue vacuum line you mention........that the "supply" for the transfer case 4wd switch, it hooks up on the right side of the engine, near the charcoal canister, there is a Tee there, and the other run goes to the vacuum reserve in the right front bumper.

2X's on the tranny switch ;) Or......you could pull the fuse for the lights :brows: Until you get the switch replaced. Would be #13 fuse (Trans), a 7.5 amp fuse. :eek: $200 fine.......... :shake: Did you convince him you were driving in reverse :D

That's what I was wondering :hmm: Yea, better check that out, it could be the steering gear (box) is worn out :( Time for the up grade :brows: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15106 Or a Durango steering box :D

Do you Mod's just want a bunch of "common" item pictures tossed up, and then organize them latter :dunno: like this........ Renix era cluster - MJ Parking/Emergency brake assembly - Let me know, and I can Load up a whole bunch :yes: Or......get them re-sized :hmm:

Unless your pockets are very deep........I'd go the JY route, just check the mileage on the donor, I'm sure you don't want to grab a vital part off some thing that has over 200K on the clock :eek: Me......I'm kind of annual on the brakes, look, your MJ is 22 year old, all the lines are that old (in most cases) or they been "patched" by others, so, re-doing the brake lines, replace all the soft lines, and Yes, replace the rotors, pads, and calipers are high on my list. Plus, don't neglect the rear brakes, the lines that run behind the gas tank are Very prone to rot out. Oh, and then the load leveler :roll: One of the items that in my neck of the woods don't hold up, so that needs to be addressed. Then you have the soft line in the rear, and the wheel cylinders. My point, I'd radder do the complete brake system all at once, get everything new and fresh, knowing that there is not going to be a problem down the road, and improve the stopping power over all, Then move on to the "other" upgrades :D You mention "play" in the steering wheel?? as in loose steering column, or steering wheel moves 1/2 turn before the wheels move?? Yea, check that out to see what your problem is, it could be caused by several different items.

It's on the AP wire too....... http://www.rr.com/news/topic/article/rr ... _killing_3 That's good news Don :yes: And......what's this 'Snow' you got down there :hmm: Thought you moved to Bama to miss all that white stuff :teehee:

But......it's got free shipping :D So, opening bid, and the free shipping, not a bad price. Oh, and it looks Renix to me to :yes:

:eek: Yea, I heard this on tonight's news :eek: Hope your daughter is :peek: Ya know. Yea, all that because the professor didn't get any recognition :nuts: Well........she got her 15 minutes of fame now :shake: Let us know when the coast is clear and your daughter is home ;)

:eek: You think they will get dug out before July???? :teehee: Click HERE and it will take you to the man's mail box :D

Yes, the top left circle is the 4wd light switch. The blue vacuum line, with the check valve on it........that the feed for the transfer case switch, the one you would want to disconnect if your taking the CAD off......I see you already started with that. Of course, if your not, then you want the re-connect that line :brows:

I think Mini Beast did this a year or two ago, and had a couple of the bushings made up :hmm: If you ask him really nicely........just maybe he can help you out with the info, or with one :yes:

I know this sound kind of K.I.S.S.......... But, an easy way to keep your truck from overheating........ Take the Plow off when you don't need it :roll: I take mine off all the time, we don't get snow forecast for a while, the plow comes off. It takes me less than 5 minutes to pull 3 pins, and the electrical connection, and less than 10 minutes to but it back on. Yea, I know, you have the Myers plow, so you have 2 pins, a chain, and 2 quick connects to undo :shake: Plus, you'll see a great improvement in your MPG's after you take the plow off going down the highway at 60 :yes:

:yes: Totally agree We all know that Super Wade 2 is kicking him self because he started the flood and only got what $205 for his set, if he would have waited another 2 weeks, then he would have gotten $350 for the set :doh: I'm going to hold my sets until there at least 40 years old, and then cash in :banana: :teehee:

I agree :D

Also........if you found the vacuum line to the EGR capped off, more than likely, the EGR valve is not working, and really no worries about that. If you want to check it, just plug the vacuum line in to the EGR valve while the engine is running, if it's malfunctioning, it will choke the engine right out. I agree with the upgrade for the brake booster.......and here's a write up for it - http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... pgrade.htm

If I could clear something up.......... The '4wd indicator light and switch' is located on the right inner fender, under the radiator pressure bottle, almost next to the firewall. All you need to do is unplug the wire to the switch, and the light will go out. Or, if it really bothers you, you can replace the switch, but I don't think there any replacement switches out there, so, JY. The control switch on the transfer case, yes, this can also cause the light to stay on, but it would also cause the CAD to malfunction, but for a $12 switch, you could replace it. More than likely, the light will remain on. Not every one want to take the CAD off and shift the forks over, I don't, and I've replace the shift motor on a couple of D30's. If you do want to eliminate all the vacuum lines for the transfer case shifter, all you need to do is remove the one line at the Tee, on the right side of the engine, again, under the pressure bottle, and plug that one line going to the transfer case.

Is that a new option :hmm: Like on long drives.........it massages your hands/arms :D Or........like in air planes, it a stick shaker if the car is going into a stall :dunno: I'm really surprised that this manufacture's name has not come up here lately, with all their other problems :hmm: I like my 20 year old MJ with less 'technology' built in, and no floor mats :D

:doh: It's a Jeep thing, and you Should understand that. :teehee: And, I think you found the part to make it work :thumbsup: (When do I get my ride????)