Eagle_SX4

According to the MotorTrend article they are carbon fiber. https://www.motortrend.com/news/first-look-2026-easter-jeep-safari-wrangler-gladiator-cherokee-grand-wagoneer

Fair enough. Any one interested it was a 2.5 liter, ax5, 2wd, short bed with maroon interior. Most of the parts are listed on the seller's page just search Comanche.

@fiatslug87That seller is parting out a perfectly clean truck. The entire body is for sale. https://www.ebay.com/itm/157800314970

There are actually 3 coolant temp sensors. In the radiator(fan switch) on the side of the block(computer temp sensor) and in the top back of the head(gauge sensor or dummy light). The one that talks to the computer is under the intake manifold in the engine block. What I understand is that the sensor helps tell the engine to be in open or closed loop. If it is stuck in open loop it will run rich but it will still run. Either way any of the coolant temp sensors won't change if the engine will run or not. Something else is causing your engine not to run.

The coolant temp sensor in the radiator is only there to trigger the auxiliary fan when temps get to hot. It does not have anything to do with keeping the truck running, only keeping it cool.

Found some other pics of a mini automatic console. This one was in an XJ. This one is in a Comanche.

Is this what you are after. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256492974100 It is the only one I have ever seen or can find pics of.

If you need some more room. It will also help if you loosen the body side control arm bolts. Don't take them out just loosen them about 1-2 turns. When finished just make sure to tighten them while the truck is back on the ground or at least with the full weight on the axle. That way the bushings are not in a constant bind.

It is always fun having people wave at you while driving down the road. I made it home and total milage for the trip was 1,675 miles in 4 days.

It was a very fun show. So far I have put about 1,250 miles on my Eagle and counting on my grand adventure across Arizona and Utah. Lots of elevation change on my route I have been up to 9600 feet and down to ~1000 feet in Glendale. No overheating issues even climbing north out of Glendale. I can now say my car is fully road worthy.

I have had this happen to me as well where the part under the rear main seal slips out of the oil pan. When I reinstalled it I used some silicone to glue it to the pan so it wouldn't happen again. It has been holding up well.

I would love those fender flares. Larger than stock but still stock looking.

I am running Renix fuel injection on a '91 4.0 liter. I have the '98+ horseshoe intake and am running the Renix fuel rail. There is a lot that needs to change to make this a seamless swap. Your TPS needs to be adapted to the throttle body. I made my own. I made something similar to what is detailed here. You will need to add the Renix coolant temp sensor to the side of the engine block. There should be a plug that will need to be removed and the sensor will go in its place. (the location of the sensor does not change) I did use the Renix fuel rail but I trimmed the center 2 feet and welded some new brackets on to all 4 legs pick up the different bolt locations. This seemed easier than making new fuel lines for the H.O. fuel rail. I also like Renix fuel rail better due to the flow through design keeping the fuel rail colder than the H.O. dead head style. You will need a new power steering pump. The Renix one doesn't bolt up to the H.O. intake manifold. Your exhaust will likely need to be changed. I have a H.O. exhaust manifold and down pipe. It moves the oxygen sensor to a different location and deletes the EGR. Speaking of EGR it will need to be deleted because the H.O. intake manifolds don't have a provision for it. The Renix 4.0 IAC valve will bolt into the H.O. throttle body. It does function but the H.O. IAC has a slightly different pintle shape and is a plug and play swap. You will need to get a new air box and intake hose. The location of the intake hose changed enough that Renix airbox doesn't work very well. The junkyard is the best place to look for these. I recommend getting a late XJ box as it is a much better design than the early boxes. You will need to add a port to it for your CCV tube that was on the Renix box. I just cut it out of the Renix box and used my soldering iron to "weld" it into the new air box lid. The last thing you might need to do if you are changing to the open cooling system is relocate your thermal fan switch which is in the Renix radiator tank. I got an aftermarket one and installed it into the port on the H.O. thermostat. The existing wires will need to be extended. It is a 200 degree switch. The E-fan comes on sooner than before which I think is a good thing. This is the one I used. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=27900

That is cool to see. Is it aluminum or plastic?

MTS makes and sells new sending units. They use an old style rotary vane pump. The Bosch 69302 is a newer turbine style pump that is much quieter. The ideal solution would be a MTS sending unit and a Bosch pump. I wish MTS made a sending unit that accommodated the new smaller turbine pump. http://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm The part number is JPSU-6. (sending unit only no fuel pump) You have to call them to order.

The Bosch pump you should look for is part #69302. It was discontinued a while ago but they pop up on eBay occasionally.

I have had bad luck with new master cylinders. Check to make sure there is no brake fluid on the fuse block and in the footwell.

DON'T drill any holes. What you are probably fitting is that you put the control arm in the axle first. You should put the control arm in the body side first then move the axle to get it lined up properly. I had to use a come along winch to get my axle in the right spot for the bolts to drop in.

160 miles of dirt sound fun to me. Count me in.

It might be a H.O. only thing. There are some conflicting sources on when it started. I have seen pictures of at least 1 late 1990 H.O.

I believe that it was 1990 that it was standard to have blinking marker lights. There is a mod you can do to have the earlier vehicles do this as well, it is on my list if things to do.

Awesome job. Looks like it has plenty of power. @eaglescout526 probably still has a clock delete plate for sale.

I am definitely up for a trip to Moab. I should probably get some rock sliders made. I was mountain biking there a few years ago, it is crazy how grippy the slick rock is.

The turn signal sockets like to corrode. The best fix is to cut them off and wire in new ones. I had a similar issue on my truck and new sockets fixed the issue.

I have one but I am not close. I could ship it to you. If you are interested PM me.