Eagle_SX4

That seems about right. I get about the same in the city. Last week I put about 300 miles on my truck doing about 70 mph on snow tires and got 17.5 MPG. I have gotten as good as 23 by driving the byways (with street tires) and doing no more than 60 mph on a trip before.

Quite certain that it is the ambient temp sensor for the overhead console in a XJ. Unless there are 2 of them one on each side for the fog lights. To my knowledge both XJ's and MJ's got the same harness from the bulkhead forward but the MJ got some stuff removed from the cab side. For example XJ's got a low washer light and overhead console with temp but those wires are missing on the MJ. Here is some info on that plug but no pics. Maybe @Automan2164 still has the pic.

I used a BA10 master cylinder with the AX15 slave (both internal and external) with no issues other than longevity (seals started leaking). You should be able to use an AX15 master with the BA10 slave with no issues.

I had the same issue. I switched to a later master cylinder (91-96). It is fully aluminum including the reservoir. The AX15 used the same master cylinder for both internal and external slave cylinders. External slave AX15 came out some time in 93. There are 2 issues you will need to address. 1, the newer master cylinder uses a different fitting. 2, the rod that attaches to the pedal will need to be drilled out a slightly larger diameter. I haven't had to replace my master cylinder going on 1.5 years now.

I think your best bet would be to get one out of a junkyard. I also was missing one and had to pull one out of a junkyard. It is a hard to replicate part. You may be able to recreate it by finding a nut that threads on to the end of the arm rest and then cutting a slit in it.

It was a lot easier than I had thought it would be. This is the spring compressor I used. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253333083643 It worked very well and if you need to ever remove the front springs don't use any other type of compressor. Using this one you do need to remove the upper control arm to get the spring out but it is so much safer than trying to use a different style of compressor. Replaced the front springs on my dad's Eagle without this compressor and one of the outside spring compressors popped off and hit my knuckle, I have a scar from it. It could have been much worse.

Changed the rear diff gear oil today. Everything looks good in there. Also today I started to change all the front suspension bushings. I got the passenger upper ones successfully changed today and the rest will be tomorrow. Thought this would be a hassle but it went very smooth. A while back I bought a spring compressor built just for the AMC front springs. It replaces the shock and you just tighten it up and it compresses the spring safely so you can get the upper control arm out to change the bushings.

Dutchman axles out of Idaho makes some 1541h axles for the non clip 35. I have not dealt with them yet but am thinking about getting new axle shafts for my c clip 35 from them. Their axle selection is a little confusing but just look at the chart they have linked in the description. I think you will need the sr399 axle shafts. https://dutchmanaxles.com/jeep-scout-ih-stock-replacement-rear-axle-pair.html

Awesome thanks for the pics. Upgrades maybe in my future, next time I open up my transmission.

Looks like it is available on rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,46005,positive+crankcase+ventilation+(pcv)+hose,11784

Well if you strike out with napa. It is just a dorman part #46005. It looks like most auto parts stores list it as in stock but not available for local pickup at least not for me. Maybe you could get one from somewhere else.

You could remove the fuel line from the sending unit/fuel pump hanger and use compressed air to make sure the entire line is clear from the tank to the rail before you pull the pump out of the tank.

Good job. They are quite easy to rebuild if you have access to a press. What is the verdict on the 5th gear upgrade? Any differences you could see?

I have a pair of those that will never get put back on my truck. (They may be a knock off version). They are super bright but if you live in an snowy area they will get covered when snowing and all the light goes up and you can't see 10 feet in front of you. I prefer the Hella h4 conversion housing and a relay harness. If you still want more light out front add some fog lights.

Could also be a failing fuel pump. Sometimes if the computer sees that it is running lean it lets the injectors stay open longer causing a rich mixture even with low fuel pressure.

Not sure here is what is in my build sheet. APB TWO TONE PAINT PACKAGE - I APC TWO TONE PAINT PACKAGE - II Seems there was at least 2 different options for 2 tone paint. Not sure what either of them mean however.

I also have this code in my build sheet and also APB which are both 2 tone paint codes.

If the dash was swapped at some point the vin plate may have not been changed out. (I've seen this in a junkyard XJ) Check the tag under the hood by the drivers side hood hinge and see if the vin matches.

Looks like new. RX-131XJ RADIO

I have at least one extra you can have. I will find it tomorrow and test it. PM me and we can work something out.

The ones I got are from napa. They are the napa brand and work great. But they are expensive. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LMPBP1156LEDN

Fuel pumps were the same from 87-93 then jeep swapped to the new style rotary-vein pump for 94-95 with the same pressure. In 96 they changed to a return-less system with the pressure regulator inside the tank.

That set up works fine in my truck but it is running the original engine and fuel system (Renix). If you do have a 96 and obd you will probably have a return-less fuel system and some mods will need to be made to accommodate that. I am not sure how to do this and have not looked in to it.

ebay