Spinnakerblue89

TIL

I was thinking 97+ steelies myself.

Anyone see the new Little Caesars commercial? Those wheels look...... Off.

Appreciate it, everything looks and feels solid.

That's pretty much when I ended up doing. So a little expansion: I did manage to find a small hose clamp and I used it, I can see how it will work if the one tab wasn't mess up. when I pulled it through, the one on the back was clearly mangle and bent out of shape some how. It seems I wasn't the only cat on the block who fought with it. Is there anything else I should consider doing with the assembly while I'm down there? The spring is quite rusty but everything looks fine.

Yeah the flat head trick isn't working so well, I'm wondering if it's been tampered with because it looks gnarly. I'm such a dummy, the socket trick! Duh! I did have the notion to use a hose clamp but I don't have one that narrow anymore, my ZJ gobbled the last small one recently. JML

I am trying to replace mine as the metal coat is very rusted and pitted in some areas, and since I still have the carpet and seats out, it just makes sense to take care of it here and now. I cannot seem to feed the old cable out through the bracket assembly. Is there a special tool required or a trick involved? It looks like there are maybe three tables that need pushed in and I'm usually decent with these sort of things but for the life of me I'm having the weirdest difficulty with this part. Also, I understand MJ parking brake assemblies are getting to be unobtainium in some parts. Are there any parts on this I should consider servicing? For the record the barking brakes did work the last time I used them. Thanks.

About two years ago I saw where Bosch had an aftermarket replacement fuel pump that will work, except a certain part of the older pump had to be removed and placed on the Bosch.

No pics as of right now but I'm doing a little restorative work on a vintage 1970's Glenfield-Marlin Model 60 rifle I won at a local auction. Redoing the stock, rebluing the barrel, cleaning up the action. My first passion is with gunsmithing, in second place is the Comanche, but that's mostly due to the limitations of my own abilities so far.

I haven't yet put my headliner in, but by the looks of it, it's best to put that in before the trim if even just for an easier install. In fact, I'm pretty sure very headliner I've dealt with had required the trim to be attached after the fact.

I would say that it could be the ignition switch, but I don't know what the symptoms look like in that scenario. Could be the ignition module on the steering column possibly. But most importantly-- did you check your grounds??? Double check battery ground, triple check it. Clean the connection. I had what I thought was an absolutely SOLID and clean connection on a '93 ZJ once, nope, wasn't on tight enough, even though it felt plenty tight.

I just have to say this: I initially misread this as, "I'd grab and angle grinder..."

If you really wanted to have a tool for the job, and maybe you'll need to use it more than once, here is what I have used, more or less. May not be the same brand, but it's adjustable and it works. Also, a skilled fabricator can make this at home, and it would likely be more solid. If you do use this tool, understand that the outer locking ring is usually going to be VERY tight. These were usually assembled with machines that applied a specific level of torque, locking the outer ring onto an encapsulate ring (E-ring). If you do use this type of tool, and there are others just like it, don't be dismayed by the resistance you'll have. That ring is gonna be on very tight and usually the fuel pump tool prefers a quick, hard break. Which is why I always advocate to skip the tool. The only real problem with using a blunt tool instead of the proper tool is actually two-fold: Gouging the rank/E-ring with the flathead or damaging the o-ring. Could also bend the E-ring too, but that's a bit tricky to do without meaning to. https://www.amazon.com/AUPREX-Universal-Removal-Adjustable-Install/dp/B0CLNP27M5/ref=asc_df_B0CLNP27M5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693655229489&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10658735990478666746&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016335&hvtargid=pla-2282083389349&psc=1&mcid=3068ade82d6434f0b28056f1d3a72a68&gad_source=1

I've disassembled thousands of tanks with flatheads and never once saw a spark, ever, not in the seven years I did it. However, it doesn't mean it isn't possible or dangerous, and it disregards the attempt to do things safely. Find a thick, very sturdy piece of plastic that you know can take a beating and use it in lieu of a flathead or chisel. I have seen folks use the handle of another screwdriver instead of the flathead.

I'm not the most savvy about suspension and steering diagnosis, I've only replaced CAs and had a shop do my alignments. That said, if a shop that I trusted were to tell me my caster was in the negative by 2, and that their recommendation was presently not a possibility, I would seriously keep the possibility of either the control arms themselves being not to true spec (probably the simplest answer), or you may have something else at play, which could be more of a major issue. I would reasonably expect that I wouldn't need to shim the control arms so much to get them to correct caster, you've already got, 3/8" in compensation to account for. That's like a socket drive worth of difference! I remind you, that's a rube's take on the matter. I've had some wicked weird luck in my life, both good and bad, so I've come to expect the unexpected... Which means that the unexpected is technically then expected, this rendering the saying pointless.

This is my area! I used to work at the manufacturer for a lot of gas tanks. There is a special tool for it that fits on a ratchet, but honestly the best advice is to use a long, wide flathead screwdriver, or a punch, and tap one of the teeth of the outer locking ring counter clockwise. Now the seals can *technically* be used, but they should not be. Believe it or not, the smallest freaking little hair can cause an air leak. Yep, reworked a ton of gas tanks in my days there. But never an XJ/MJ tank.

Today I learned that Cayenne pepper powder is one hell of a supplement for heart issues. Oh... Right this is the truck forums. Glad to know this. I may need to replace mine and I would not have considered this as a possible issue.

First you need to determine if you need a full floor pan or just a half. I only needed a half myself a few patches. I have a few Key Parts pieces for other areas and I've always bought them on eBay. Would you care to provide pictures of your truck's floor?

I have one from C2C. A couple years ago it was pretty obvious by comparing C2C to Key parts panels that the KP fit better, and likely was superior. I was settled in KP until I noticed that the one sold on C2C looks very similar. It was a little cheaper too, so I bought it and it seems okay to me. For sealer, I bought two tubes of a seam sealer at O Reilly's. I forget the brand name, I believe it started with 'U' and it came packaged in a violet tube. There's other brands to try also.

I can only answer to your first inquiry. I'm not saying it's better, but I have a Classic 2 Current floor pan for my driver's side I'm going to put in. Previously they were considered probably inferior by design, but evidently they must have done something to change that as this new pan fits very well and is of high quality and it may be less expensive that Key. I wonder if Ray Buck has any.

Did you try tapping the starter? No crank can be a symptom of that. I believe a no crank condition may be a symptom of the CKPS as well.

That's kinda neat, radio deletes are probably rare as hens' teeth now, aren't they?

It would be awesome to keep a stock radio but with added USB/Bluetooth functionality. Alas, my original radio was going on the fritz and I ended up replacing mine with a Kenwood. I still have the original, though!

Hey Zimm, I've ordered a number of things from you, I think mostly through Etsy. Are you working anything for the MJ currently?

That's a bit how these things tend to work.