Spinnakerblue89

I haven't yet put my headliner in, but by the looks of it, it's best to put that in before the trim if even just for an easier install. In fact, I'm pretty sure very headliner I've dealt with had required the trim to be attached after the fact.

I would say that it could be the ignition switch, but I don't know what the symptoms look like in that scenario. Could be the ignition module on the steering column possibly. But most importantly-- did you check your grounds??? Double check battery ground, triple check it. Clean the connection. I had what I thought was an absolutely SOLID and clean connection on a '93 ZJ once, nope, wasn't on tight enough, even though it felt plenty tight.

I just have to say this: I initially misread this as, "I'd grab and angle grinder..."

If you really wanted to have a tool for the job, and maybe you'll need to use it more than once, here is what I have used, more or less. May not be the same brand, but it's adjustable and it works. Also, a skilled fabricator can make this at home, and it would likely be more solid. If you do use this tool, understand that the outer locking ring is usually going to be VERY tight. These were usually assembled with machines that applied a specific level of torque, locking the outer ring onto an encapsulate ring (E-ring). If you do use this type of tool, and there are others just like it, don't be dismayed by the resistance you'll have. That ring is gonna be on very tight and usually the fuel pump tool prefers a quick, hard break. Which is why I always advocate to skip the tool. The only real problem with using a blunt tool instead of the proper tool is actually two-fold: Gouging the rank/E-ring with the flathead or damaging the o-ring. Could also bend the E-ring too, but that's a bit tricky to do without meaning to. https://www.amazon.com/AUPREX-Universal-Removal-Adjustable-Install/dp/B0CLNP27M5/ref=asc_df_B0CLNP27M5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693655229489&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10658735990478666746&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016335&hvtargid=pla-2282083389349&psc=1&mcid=3068ade82d6434f0b28056f1d3a72a68&gad_source=1

I've disassembled thousands of tanks with flatheads and never once saw a spark, ever, not in the seven years I did it. However, it doesn't mean it isn't possible or dangerous, and it disregards the attempt to do things safely. Find a thick, very sturdy piece of plastic that you know can take a beating and use it in lieu of a flathead or chisel. I have seen folks use the handle of another screwdriver instead of the flathead.

I'm not the most savvy about suspension and steering diagnosis, I've only replaced CAs and had a shop do my alignments. That said, if a shop that I trusted were to tell me my caster was in the negative by 2, and that their recommendation was presently not a possibility, I would seriously keep the possibility of either the control arms themselves being not to true spec (probably the simplest answer), or you may have something else at play, which could be more of a major issue. I would reasonably expect that I wouldn't need to shim the control arms so much to get them to correct caster, you've already got, 3/8" in compensation to account for. That's like a socket drive worth of difference! I remind you, that's a rube's take on the matter. I've had some wicked weird luck in my life, both good and bad, so I've come to expect the unexpected... Which means that the unexpected is technically then expected, this rendering the saying pointless.

This is my area! I used to work at the manufacturer for a lot of gas tanks. There is a special tool for it that fits on a ratchet, but honestly the best advice is to use a long, wide flathead screwdriver, or a punch, and tap one of the teeth of the outer locking ring counter clockwise. Now the seals can *technically* be used, but they should not be. Believe it or not, the smallest freaking little hair can cause an air leak. Yep, reworked a ton of gas tanks in my days there. But never an XJ/MJ tank.

Today I learned that Cayenne pepper powder is one hell of a supplement for heart issues. Oh... Right this is the truck forums. Glad to know this. I may need to replace mine and I would not have considered this as a possible issue.

First you need to determine if you need a full floor pan or just a half. I only needed a half myself a few patches. I have a few Key Parts pieces for other areas and I've always bought them on eBay. Would you care to provide pictures of your truck's floor?

I have one from C2C. A couple years ago it was pretty obvious by comparing C2C to Key parts panels that the KP fit better, and likely was superior. I was settled in KP until I noticed that the one sold on C2C looks very similar. It was a little cheaper too, so I bought it and it seems okay to me. For sealer, I bought two tubes of a seam sealer at O Reilly's. I forget the brand name, I believe it started with 'U' and it came packaged in a violet tube. There's other brands to try also.

I can only answer to your first inquiry. I'm not saying it's better, but I have a Classic 2 Current floor pan for my driver's side I'm going to put in. Previously they were considered probably inferior by design, but evidently they must have done something to change that as this new pan fits very well and is of high quality and it may be less expensive that Key. I wonder if Ray Buck has any.

Did you try tapping the starter? No crank can be a symptom of that. I believe a no crank condition may be a symptom of the CKPS as well.

That's kinda neat, radio deletes are probably rare as hens' teeth now, aren't they?

It would be awesome to keep a stock radio but with added USB/Bluetooth functionality. Alas, my original radio was going on the fritz and I ended up replacing mine with a Kenwood. I still have the original, though!

Hey Zimm, I've ordered a number of things from you, I think mostly through Etsy. Are you working anything for the MJ currently?

That's a bit how these things tend to work.

I imagine that if it's sticking due to corrosion, there's not much you can do aside from replacing it or the throttle body. But if it's only dirt, a good brush and maybe some sort of cleaner would help. Obviously be careful about what gets into the throttle body itself.

Sir, that alone would be heaven on earth.

I take it you are specifically referring to the coiled wire portion, yes? I recently did a bored throttle body on my Renix and saw that mine was actually quite filthy with dirt and micro bunnies. So I took a try old toothbrush I've had since 1995 and got on there. I don't think it mattered but it was driving me crazy to look at while adjusting the TPS. As for taking it apart? I don't know if I would go that far. But that's just me.

I can't name the brand as I don't even know what they are, but a friend has a 1996 Cherokee he put in some fairly close to original looking switches in for his fog lights and light bar. He learned real quickly that driving at night with either switch turned on is blinding as the lights that emit from the switches are bright as can be.

As the above poster asks, what motor is in the truck? And you might have better input if you include year, engine, transmission in your sig so we can quick reference your model. And to clarify, are you stating that when you short the starter it itself cranks, but the motor does not turn over? Also, if you have not done so, please take the time to look at Cruiser54's Mostly Renix tips, particularly the grounds and other electrical tips.

By CPS do you refer to the Cam Position Sensor or Crank Sensor? I just want to be sure because sometimes I see confusion between the two. I'm not sure if this is truly relatable, but I'll bring my 1993 ZJ 4.0 into the equation. I had a crank-no start scenario three years ago that was somewhat out of the blue. I forget what it was, but something electric failed and when I replaced it, my cam position sensor died out too- and I heard that it can sometimes fail in near unison with a certain electrical component. I thought I'd throw that out there, for what it's worth.

Okay folks, here's the skinny!!! For those curious or in search of the answer: My '89 4.0 TPS required (x2) 8-36x1" bolts. It is my understanding that this is the standard with Renix Jeeps. Yes, McMaster-Carr does indeed stock what you will need, however, I ordered from eBay because I didn't want to create another account at this time.

A very reputable mind in the XJ/MJ tech scene has been lost. Let us all take note of his wisdom and all that he had given to the community. As an historian, I cannot agree more strongly that all of his site and wealth of knowledge must be compiled, archived, and maintained for easy access.

I continued my search for the query and after nearly an hour looking online, through some miracle I may have come up on the answer incidentally. I don't know yet, but apparently the Renix TPS screws are 8-36x1". I looked. Ain't not a one of the damn hardware stores within fifty of me have ever carried a 36 thread bolt before! Luckily, I have learned that McMaster-Carr has these size bolts. I'm going to order some tonight, and if they fit, I'll be posting on here with a link an everything because I doubt I'll be the last cat on the block to ask this question.