Spinnakerblue89

Something to note: Their site claims that '84-'97 led kits are sold out, yet they still have '84-'01 kits? Either case, the most I would need is for the instrument cluster. Will those LEDs fit into the plastic adaptors on the back of the gauge cluster just fine? Edit: Spelling

Whaaaa!!! Replacement OEM style taillights? Color me intrigued! I'd much rather do that if they are of good fit and finish. My concerns with the Oracle setup was that they would leave something to be desired! Liking the green in your instrument cluster! That was done to my '88 Ranger and it is dim as all get out. I'll be digging into that one some other time.

I will have time to look all of these recommendations over. I have a few things I wish to do before diving into this, such as replacing mirrors and B-pillar lights— for which I have searched on here extensively and pretty much know where I'm going with it. I do agree overall that LEDs can be too white/blue for this vehicle. A natural/warm white is idea to me for at least the interior because it fits the time, and I have a honey tan interior and that being drowned in cool white/blue sounds like a nightmare on my eyes. Speaking of which, I have a follow up as this thread has given me another thing to consider. The original tail light lenses have seen better days, and I believe a hairline fracture has developed in one of them. I'm a huge fan of preserving original equipment but there's nothing I can do about lenses that so far as I know haven't been reproduced to original spec in what... 30 years? Suffice it to say, I'm cool with removing the tail light assemblies, cleaning them up, and boxing them up for safe storage until a day comes where they may be reproduced. My understanding is that Oracle has made a reproduction, albeit different-looking, with LEDS. The asking price doesn't bother me, would it be worth swapping out just to spare the originals from further deterioration? Cost is not an issue, again.

Htchevyii, My very limited understanding of LEPs is that the brightness is certainly more focused and intense, but also... More focused than even an LED. From your experience, would these be suitable for front end lights and interior use? Or would they fall under the too-direct/too-bright category? I'm glad that you brought them up, by the way. I'd darn near forgotten about them!

All, thank your for your suggestions.

Not referring to headlamps, I'm sticking with Halogens for that. So I have a number of bulbs both interior and exterior that have burned out. I will be replacing them soon, as I have now parked the Pioneer for the winter for work to be done on it. My main question is: Being as old as this truck is ('89), should I stick with standard incandescent bulbs or swap with LEDs? Yes I'm aware of the energy savings which really don't matter much since I'm not going to load the truck up with a sound system and a thousand other electronic gadgets. I don't exactly buy the claim that LEDs last longer, either. But they are brighter... I guess at the core of my question is: Do these older electrical systems have any issues running a bunch of LEDs? Not exactly apples to apples but my 2015 Escape actually had an issue running all LEDs and I've heard older vehicle electrical systems can run into issues with this, specifically because many LEDs continue to draw a little bit of power for a short moment after shutting off. I'd love to hear feedback on this. :)

Hey I have the same year, trim, engine, and tranny MJ as you do! So I haven't actually replaced the sensor for my MJ yet but I have for my 1993 ZJ. I don't know if they are the same as what is used in the MJ but I used an NTK EH0245 from RockAuto. If there is one thing I have always practiced with sensors and electronic components; never go cheap. You get what you pay for, and getting lucky is never a good bet to be placed. NTK is a very reputable brand, and I believe they are a sub brand of NGK (think sparkplugs). I use NTK when I can't get official Mopar branded items, which is increasingly common. I'd go with them. As to the more technical aspect of your question, I would rather let a more knowledgeable person answer to it.

Yeah I can do that if I return. A part of me wants to purchase the entire truck outright as it still has many usable parts, but my wallet doesn't like the sound of that currently, holiday season is right around the corner.

Just wanted to share this with everyone. Unfortunately I didn't think to take more than one picture as I was focused on grabbing a few parts from this and some for my '93 ZJ but... Dark Gray (Dover Gray?) '89 Pioneer 4.0 2wd Automatic column shift Short bed It still has most of its parts but I removed the instrument cluster, tps, speedometer 34 tooth gear, and I grabbed the carpeted panel from the rear of the cab+ the hardware that attached to it and the gray panel above it as I know those are difficult to find. When I got to it, the front fascia, headlights, IAC, radio, and steering column were taken. Anywho, this was found in Fort Wayne at Shafer's pick-your-part. There is still plenty of it to be picked apart.

Appreciate the input, I'll check out the local JYs soon and see what I can find. If nothing else I might just hold onto the cruise control speedo cable for now in case I find and XJ or another MJ with cruise that I may need it for.

I have a speedometer that's been acting up lately, needle bouncing. Well long story short, I ended up reattaching the cable on the instrument cluster end of things and that helped a little I suppose. I have a replacement cable that came with my truck, which by the way is an '89 2WD 4.0 auto. The cable looks NOTHING like the one that is hooked in right now. It's shorter, the connections are both metal it seems, and there's a metal cylinder about half-way up the cable. I had to open the package to inspect it further, it's Crown Automotive part number 53009006. I understand any listing I see for it mentions 2WD but also mentions cruise control-which I do not have. Am I right to assume that 2WD aside, due to the length, this would not be a proper replacement cable? Or is this another one of those brilliant model year part changes?

Wow I thought my predicament was lame enough. I'm also an Indiana resident, and the seller of my MJ lived in central Michigan. He mistakenly put his info in the wrong "purchaser" segment of his title, and I had him fill out the "seller" portion. That was not good enough according to my state, so I had to have him sign and date an affidavit certifying that no fraud was intended and that he indeed sold it to me. The BMV filled out the necessary parts of the form, I took a picture of it, sent it to the PO, he signed and dated it on his phone, sent it back to me, and now I go back tomorrow to hope that it is acceptable.

I wonder about that too, that would require I remove the steering column, right?

Andy, when the the ignition switch was out, I could easily turn the key tumbler all the way either way and remove the key no problem. I've even got it where I can do the same with the switch bolted in, but I am cautious since when I turn the key in the tumbler, the actuator rod barely moves at all. I can freely spin the gear in the column with a flat head and it will move the rod no problem, but nothing really happens when I insert the tumbler and turn the key. Been extremely busy with work, moving, and servicing my '88 Ranger, so my time is limited and haven't had much time to fool around with the MJ over the last week.

Ignition switch is on (the front screw was a bear, for some reason), but when I turn the key in the tumbler while it's in the column, it hardly budges the actuator rod at all. Less than a centimeter of movement, maybe. That hardly seems right.

Well I finally got the part in and was installing it and discovered that the actuator rod from the MFS to the headlight dimmer on the left side of the steering column has popped out... Does this mean I have to tear it apart even more?

Will do, Cruiser!

Interesting, so is there a good replacement spring I should look for? While I have the column lowered, I'm just going to throw in a new ignition starter switch (came in less than 24 hours through RA), as one of the pins on the old one is looking just little perturbed by heat, but not exactly burned either. Might as well do the swap while it's open.

Woah! I did mention that the PRNDL cluster is entirely devoid of the indicator, so there's no ACTUAL indicator as to what gear I am in except for the conveyance of motion. The guy who I work for used to be a Jeep/Eagle tech back in the early 1990's and did suggest to try adjusting the shifter cable, but he reminded me that he hasn't been near an MJ since the mid-90's. There is that.

See I'm missing the indicator, but I feel for each gear. Having said that; I can tell you that it is in the correct gear. When I feel that I am in reverse, I go in reverse; D for drive, etc. There's no ambiguity there.

I'll give the ignition switch a look. I got rained out yesterday so had to quit early with the garage already occupied.

I was able to find a manual for 1990 and also got a Chilton while I was in town today. Should I suspect the linkage?

I tried messing with the lifter any way possible and still nothing could get the key to return to the off position.

On the shifter, I noticed that the indicator needle is MIA and that when I shift, it feels all "soft" unlike any other column shifter I've ever used. It's slightly reminiscent of a 2000 F-150 that I had that had a linkage bushing go out.

Well I can ascertain that mine does not, perhaps that may be of use to someone else someday that has the same issue. I went ahead and removed the lower dash panel to look at the underside of the steering column- removed that infernal emissions timer! Just need to know how the ignition switch is adjusted and will hope that's all I need to worry about.