Spinnakerblue89

I dunno, I'm just curious. Got to thinking about this with my buddy coming over tomorrow with his '96 Cherokee to put in a new headlight setup. With a KSuspension headlight harness, IPF H4 headlight assemblies, and Sylvania Silverstar Ultra- 9003/H4s, I'm liking what I see at night. I have to adjust them again for the third time because everyone thinks I'm driving with highs on at night. I have the SS ultras in by Rover and ZJ as well, been running them for years now. But I think for my '88 Ranger, I'll try branching out with some Philips CrystalVision Platinums. What are you running in your rigs? What have your experiences been like?

So, I have done this to my Comanche and I did this very same thing to my '88 Ranger, because it uses a very similar setup with a very similar switch. It seems that adding in a relay or harness with a relay takes off a lot of the load from the switch and prevents the premature failures in a lot of the cases.

I can confirm. My '89 has a busted indicator that won't shift with the gear. I can drive the truck just fine. Thing is, I don't know what my options are. I hear that the part to fix it is in a GM shift column.

Yeah my ZJ drove just fine and then suddenly it took an electronic crap. I had no warning. Far be it from me to know for sure how you can test them, as my ZJ gave me the DTC code which narrowed everything down significantly, but there has to be a way you can test that it's the CPS or IC.

I can relate. My '93 ZJ left me in the parking lot at work one night. It would crank and crank and crank, but never turn over. So, I happened to have a new ignition coil because I was able to snag a good one for a few bucks. I'm sure it helped but it still did nothing to resolve the issue. Well it was the CPS alright, I finally replaced the sensor and made sure the timing was just right, and it fired up no issue. You may be on to something with the CPS.

I had a few minor electrical issues until I fixed the grounds and added a few. I also upgraded the cables under the hood.

Welcome- In the forum you will see a dedicated sub forum to "Cruiser54's mostly Remix Tips", it will identify the common ground points that are suspect, follow the advice given there because refreshing your grounds is a must. The ground wire on the block (passenger side) can be a problem child for sure. All of them can. I if your valve cover ever leaked or there is oil on that ground point, I cannot imagine that it helps with conductivity.

I've had mine on since November of last. So far no issues here.

I about figured as much. The one on my Ranger came from an S10.

Welcome! We share the same paint color, Spinnaker Blue Metallic! Right on!

For me the biggest factor is cost. It costs less to insure, it cost a lot less to buy the vehicle outright, and because it's a reliable vehicle, maintenance isn't much of an issue either. It doesn't cost $40k to repair the vehicle, so I don't need to spend $40K on a newer, *arguably* less reliable vehicle. That's just me. But in this economy, there is little to justify paying the exorbitant prices even on used vehicles if what you got works

Hey I saw one just like this for sale in my home town. Are they rare?

I would like to know this as well because I'm in the same boat as someone else here. The PO used a random mix/match of bolts and new mirrors do not necessarily come with hardware...

I own a 1988 Ranger with the black plastic mirrors. I can't imagine they look great on an MJ...

Is that similar to the red grease usually used in industrial applications?

Before this goes further, I may suggest that you post information on the fog lights on question. Manufacturer, model, anything you can tell us, really. Do they have a manual? Some sort of schematic by chance?

Amen

Everyone that I know who has ever been a mechanic or body guy has insisted that white lithium grease is the way to go. +1 WLG Anecdotally, it fixed the squeaky doors on both my ZJ and my Ranger.

I figured a Cherokee may need to suffice.

Damn man, I appreciate the tidbits. I'll be sure to order the book. Hey on a related note, while I'm at it... Cab forward from the door, just before the wheel arch, the rust and rot continue on the bottom. This extends beyond the reaches of both inner and outer rockers. Is that going to be a case of DIY body repair or can those be replaced also? I don't recall seeing anything but rear panels for the truck bed.

Will all of this information apply to my '89? Or should I spring for the $79 four volume '89 manual?

Ah! But first I need to find me a shop manual. I do have spot weld drill bits. I knew better than to pass up on those when I bought this.

I might add that there are a number of "tutorial" vids on YouTube. I used quotations because there are different ways of going about this. Basically, if you look for Jeep XJ frame repair, you can apply what you see to the Comanche. It's actually quite a simple looking process and I have a few spots near the rear of my truck that I will be making small repairs on, myself.

It certainly seems like it could be. I have to get more cutting wheels, I'm down to my last one. (I've been repairing an old Ranger simultaneous to this truck).

I pretty much figure it'll be bit by but until I have the configuration that I want.