dave92cherokee

Looks pretty good, especially for camo material as that stuff doesn't like to stretch out to fill in the curves in the headliner.

The 97+ xj's have the temp sender installed in the thermostat housing and seems to work pretty well, could possibly just look at getting a thermostat housing from a 97+ instead of having to modify your original.

I know everyone's been talking about meeting at ftpierce's land and having a bonfire but I just moved further out. The possibility of having it at the park in Lynchburg could be thrown out there, there's a couple of good BBQ joints on the square and if everyone's 21+ could also do the tasting tour of jack daniels.

http://www.smsheadliners.com/

You can definitely coat it in fiberglass resin which will stiffen it up for sure, as for patching the hole you can use a piece from another headliner and then glass the front and back just to make sure it's stiff and smoothed out. When I get ready to do the headliner in the 4dr I'm definitely going to have to coat it front and back with resin to smooth it out and stiffen it up as it's been tossed around and bent up and wrinkled up many times. Thankfully when it was in the xj before i pulled it I put some camo fabric on it which will give a good base for the resin to soak into for stiffening up and smoothing out. Go to NAXJA and search thread titles for headliner and there are alot of people with writeups and threads for glassing a headliner to look through.

You said you swapped the intake on the engine, did you happen to unplug the sensor and maybe not get it plugged back in good? Is the sensor still on the back corner of the head or have you moved it up to the thermostat housing like 97+? It's unlikely but possible it could have gone out more likely that either it didn't get plugged back in good, got broken, or a wire is getting pinched somewhere grounding out the signal.

As for the rubber surround just tell the glass company that you need the windshield and trim for a 99 cherokee, as for the quality of glass that's the first I've heard of a quality problem with mexican vs american glass but not to say it isn't true. Just find out if the glass company offers a warranty of some sort on the glass in case of anything like that.

I say all the north alabama/southern tn people have a get together at Alexia's place. we'll park all our dirty dented up rigs up and down the road and see what they think of that.

All the more reason I refuse to live any where with an HOA, I'm not going to be paying for my house and my property and then also be paying some other idiots to tell me what I can and can't do on my private property. HOA is one of the most useless things next to Obama.

I forget back through this thread but have you replaced any of the front end components? I had pretty nasty death wobble in my 97 xj a while back and after taking it to get the tires rotated and balanced and an alignment done they told me that the TRE's and BJ's were worn out and needed replacement. After replacing all 4 ball joints, and all TRE's it now runs great without the steering stabilizer and there's a good bit of play in my steering as well but doesn't cause any problems. I'm running 235/75/15 AT's on stock jeep wheels and no matter the pothole or bump in the road don't feel any vibration at all.

That and not to mention the wheelbase being so long affects the turning radius as well. Took it for a short drive today to try and get an alignment done and brakes bled but they were covered up for a good 3 hours so brought it back home. Found a local welding place that has a tig that might be able to weld in the box rockers for me will check into that next week.

You might have metric ton springs with the extra helpers bolted on to them, just took a closer look at the pic of the new springs and zoomed in on it and you've got a 4/1 pack which I believe has always been denoted as a metric ton pack. If it was me I would take off the overload springs that someone previously bolted on as they're only a bandaid on a broken leg. If the springs are sagged and can't hold as much weight then you'd be better off ordering new MT spring packs from somewhere like general spring or hell creek.

D44 doesn't always mean MT, the 88 4wd pioneer swb i have had a 44 rear with the 3/1 pack in it and the 44 has the larger 10x2.5 brakes versus the 35 with the 9x1.75 brakes.The extra springs that are bolted to the top of the pack are just helper springs to aid in holding a higher load without bottoming out, or the springs were already sagging so they put them on as a cheap fix to bring the height back up.

Well it's been a while since I've posted anything on here and there's been alot going on around the house taking up some time. But now it's ready to get an alignment and the brake system bled by a shop to completely flush the entire system. I found a local welding shop that has a TIG welder that I will likely have weld on the 2x6 box for the rockers. Still searching for a 2dr xj in a JY to grab the doors from to get the back doors created. This is how it's currently sitting in the back yard. I did a slight mixture of Alexia's lift, in front I've got RE 5.5" coils, RE adjustable track bar and mount, chevy brake lines, and RE drop brackets with factory control arms, in the back I've got a chevy drop shackle (which actually gave around 3.5" of lift itself), rusty's 4" SUA leaves, and a dakota brake line. As for shocks I went with the rusty's monotube shocks R11 and R16 which fit beautifully and have plenty of travel being it's a pavement truck. Now I'm working on prepping the box for welding and then will work on the headliner and back wall cover to finish off the interior. All in all happy with it for now as it'll be able to make the drive to my new house we're buying next month, currently on 235's and front has roughly 6.5" lift and back is right around 8" giving it the forward rake.

Saw the update in the first post saying he found a d44 and metric ton springs. Just didn't want him to inadvertently overload them thinking they had a higher payload.

Are you sure they are mt springs? Looking at the pics it looks like a 3/1 pack with a helper spring installed on top likely because they were overloaded at some point in the past.

Are you currently soa or sua? If you're going soa then make sure to relocate the perches if it hasn't been done already. As for the rear brake hose get the mid 90's Dakota line so you have plenty of length available for lift.

I think it's about time this thread be closed and locked. It's taken a bad turn from what the original post was about and starting to trash talk other members on the group. Everyone needs to quit getting so butt hurt because someone doesn't like their opinion about an my. Remember opinions are like a$$holes everyone has one and are perfectly entitled to it as well. Some people wouldn't like that I chopped an my in half to build my 4 door but who cares it's my mj and will be used for a reason as I have kids and xjs have little leg room in the back. To the OP the truck is going that high because it's already built and clean and shiny, to a lot of people on eBay that's all they know/care about. It wasn't built by one person it was built by a shop and they did it with the intention of trying to get some if not all of their money back out of it. It is a nice clean truck and would look good cruising down the beaches and is possibly only going to do that but whatever that's the buyers choice. Just because most of us in here go offroading in the rocks and woods and mudholes doesn't mean that's the only thing to do. If someone wants to overpay for an mj then so be it, at least it's another one still on the road and not in a crusher.

Yah forget trying to find a 92 MJ I want to find one of the 95 MJ's that they used when making that list, or one of the 92 J10's.

Did you try putting the shocks that you have on the truck yet? They may he huge when fully uncompressed to allow the suspension to cycle all the way. Sitting in the driveway you want the static mount points to be roughly in the middle of the shocks range of movement.

I tried balancing beads in a set of 34 1050 ltbs i used to have and were terrible, had 2-3 times recommended amount after some trial and error and still wobbled like crazy.

Congrats jim, think you need to have a reverse wedding party where you give guests mjs and mj related parts to clear out some room for her stuff.

I would recommend getting a different shop to check the balance of the tires and also perform an alignment. When they do an alignment they will tell you if any steering parts are worn and need replacing. Recently had my 97 with death wobble rotated and balanced and when doing alignment they said the tre's and ball joints were worn. They showed me the play in the ball joints and it was pretty bad, replaced all ball joints and all front steering and ditched the steering stabilizer. Had them do an alignment after and all death wobble is gone and drives smoothly without the stabilizer now, and theres plenty of potholes around that would introduce death wobble if it was there.

Not sure on the cost for a professional mechanic to do it but a head gasket is a relatively simple thing to do on these engines. First thing I'd check when looking at the rig is see if there's oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. If not then start the engine to see if it smokes, if it's leaking into the cylinders it would be white smoke i believe as it tries to burn off the coolant. If it doesn't exhibit either of those then it's likely one of the freeze plugs on the block leaking, possible water pump, or could be hose to water pump doesn't have the spring inside and could be collapsing restricting the flow. If you don't see visible signs of it leaking and dripping on the ground, there's no smoke or cross contamination then it's a pretty easy fix just takes some diagnosing. Even if the head gasket is blown and it's getting in the oil these engines are easy to pull the head and replace the gasket over a weekend for even a novice with basic hand tools.

If you're having axles built go with the front end parts in this lift setup, then order a set of hell creek metric ton leaf springs. Have the shop weld on spring perches for SOA and that will get you the suspension strength in the back for hauling stuff and the height you need.