MJRemi

I've been looking out for a 2dr XJ but I want the latest model possible. Didn't they produce these up to 2001? Please chime in if you know the answer.

If the seal isn't misshapened, re-use it. If you think it's too old to keep the seal, replace it. They don't cost that much.

You didn't specify which AX crossmember you are installing. It needs to the AX15 trans mount and crossmember. I've heard the mounting holes sometimes have to be elongated a bit to make it work.

...and with all that, you still love her even though you want to hit her with a shovel sometimes! ;)

That looks great! My 88 valve cover feels like plastic. I think the mechanic swapped it in when he did some engine work but I want to find an aluminum cover this summer.

This is the cluster. The truck had a 2.5 motor and either 4spd or 5spd.

So he'll soon discover the reason there are so few jeep pick-ups still on the road is because they are all in Jim's back yard. :bowdown:

It depends on where the cable snapped. If close to the wheel end, you can repair it. Also, I think other trucks, like S-10s (maybe) have similar set-ups you can adapt to fit.

I have the exact full gauge cluster you are looking for in the 86 parts truck I just bought. I haven't started removing parts yet but if you are interested, PM me and we can discuss a transaction. I can post pics when I get home. Remi.

I haven't done the upgrade yet but I believe you need the swaybar from any V8 ZJ. Be sure to grab the mounts and the end-links.

A lot of pertinent information is lacking in the ad and a personal inspection should be done before any offer is made, but with that in mind I would be in the $500-600 range due to the trans and salvage title. If other major issues come to light, I would lower the offer accordingly.

You forgot the millions of people our taxes support in foreign countries. Our government feels the need to donate billions of dollars to third world nations without any sort of tracking the money once it reaches their shores. Off course it never gets used for the intended purpose since it gets funneled through the corrupt and greedy officials and organized crime rings first.

Two inexpensive possibles are alignment and/or wheel balance. Take it to a tire shop and check those before replacing more parts.

For some reason I thought the mid-late 90s GM 3.8 V6 was the same set-up as the 3.4 but I'm not sure. If so, it put out 205 hp and would be a decent option.

Each of my trucks engine bays have a handful of disconnected wires and connectors so I wouldn't be to concerned about that unless you have a specific electrical issue regarding that connector. Vacuum lines are an integral part of these engines so ,yes, they are important. A photo of the line you are discussing would help us help you.

I recently bought a new one from Autozone and they had several to choose from. I ended up getting a 100 amp which is plenty since I don't run auxiliary equipment. Bring the old one with you to avoid core charges and to compare the bolt pattern. They first sold me the one for a 2.5 which I didn't realize until I tried installing it.

What a cool place to happen upon. I was smiling just looking at your post so I can't imagine what you were going through. Must of been like a kid in a candy store!

There is no Metric Ton badge on it so I don't know if this was a true Metric Ton or not. There are some spots that look like a badge was glued on but I can't tell which badges. Where would M/T badge be most likely mounted? I would normally refuse to tear up a truck that isn't wrecked beyond repair. This one could be a great project but I have no paperwork on it, which would probably be a real nightmare to register. I will most likely part-out the entire truck except for a couple things I can use on the Street Comanche. When I have time this summer, I will inventory everything worth selling and post on CC before going the CL route. I wouldn't ship the 20 due to high costs but will most likely sell it.

I bought a parts truck for a couple hundred bucks today. I wasn't going to but saw the AMC20 and 5 pack leafs along with cargo light and rear slider, so I pulled the trigger. I really only wanted the sheet metal to patch the side damage on the Street Comanche but the price included the seller towing it 25 miles to my house. It's a 86 4x4 with no engine or transmission. It had a 2.5 5spd. The seller removed the front header, grill, and LF fender to repair his XJ. It's filthy but it's mine. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

86 2.5 5spd 4X4 AMC 20 Metric Ton springs NO eng. or tranny Bought for parts on 04/28/2012 Now resides in my back yard Image Not Found Image Not Found

I don't know all the specs for Eliminators but I think they had 4.0, fog lights, bucket seats w/ console, and the "eliminator" decal somewhere on both sides. There may be other options but I'm not 100%.

Either through your insurance company (who will get reimbursed from other driver) or directly from the other driver's insurance, you should be driving a loaner until yours is fixed. You should not be out any money, be it medical, repairs, or lost work. Keep an accurate tab of all expenses and losses related to the accident and provide the itemized totals to your insurance agent.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/2975117407.html

Don't delay going to your doctor to document your injuries, and yes, "complaint of pain" is an injury. The other driver's insurance company will be on the hook for costs if the pain is legitimate and documented. Keep all medical records related to this in case your injuries ending up being longer lasting than expected. Good luck!

The Haynes book has schematics but not actual diagrams. If you are comfortable reading schematics, that should help.