pizzaman09

There was a variant of the International Scout named the Comanche, like a trim level. I've come across that a couple times.

This exactly. The most economical thing is to fix the 2.5L you have or swap another identical 2.5L in if you an find one very cheap.

Very nice! My actuator cleaned up like yours and like you have the original seal in it which somehow doesn't leak. My only difference is I have retained the CAD system and it works great, I think because I use it almost every time I drive the truck.

I'll keep that in mind! I quite appreciate the parking brake cable and speedo cables I purchased from them.

I actually haven't installed it yet but it appears to be high quality. If it works at all it will be an improvement over what I have. It is made by crown automotive which I've purchased several parts from and been very pleased by the quality.

I just purchased a new one from Quadratec. https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/front-door-check-arm-assembly-jeep-cherokee-xj?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwq86wBhDiARIsAJhuphmeebs7tqB-CG9wUx6d1mzOKJ7hZ6A6l_4v_2lOqc-oZ2gB3pBLJhgaAklbEALw_wcB

Too hot for the piston ring gap. That is sad. I do agree that you can pop just that piston out without pulling the engine.

My build thread has a couple photos here and a link to reupholstering sun visors. https://comancheclub.com/topic/68921-1990-comanche-eliminator/page/3/#comments

The graphics really make the truck, looking awesome sir!

Pretty much every new Ford SUV or Truck does this to me with their low beams on. Very frustrating. My Comanche is my only tall vehicle, all of my other cars have my butt no more than 12 inches off the ground.

Depends on the brand, I rarely use the term MJ because very few people know it, occasionally I use XJ and ZJ as more folks know it. Now when I'm talking BMWs, I use the chassis codes all the time and most people into sports cars know the common ones. The number of folks that have told me that they had no idea that Jeep made the Comanche or that they used to make trucks is high. However just as many people know what they are and are excited as they haven't seen one in a long time.

Congratulations on the successful swap! The full stop to get into reverse is normal for the AX-15, it appears to be a sliding straight cut gear engagement instead of synchro and dog engagement. That's a pretty typical setup, my 09 Honda and 62 Austin Healey are also setup that way. My 99 BMW has a synchronized reverse. I honestly don't remember what it was like to put the BA10/5 into reverse, someone else will have to chime in

I just want to comment that the delay settings on my Comanche has the largest range of delay times I've come across in any vehicle from very short to almost never.

This is very cool, absolutely love that people put this much effort into designing a part for a vehicle that hasn't been made for 28 years. Not for me though, I own all my cars without screens as I see enough of them at work, I love the stock full gauge cluster in the MJ/XJ.

I had very good luck with a new NTK that I purchased last year. It works perfectly according to the REM, bouncing quickly and tightly about the correct AFR. Prior to the NTK I had a new Bosch that I purchased two years ago, it didn't work well, verly slow to respond and overshot/undershot the signal quite a bit causing rough idle at a lean condition.

I always take pictures of the food when I travel new places. I appreciate your food tourism.

I read the other day that the Jeep brand has survived being owned by 8 different companies over the years. There aren't any large automakers that don't report to share holders, so unfortunately they are there to please shareholders, not enthusiasts.

I'd like them to build the Magneto 1.0 concept from a few years ago. Two door wrangler with the stock manual transmission and transfer case driven by an electric drive train. That electric drivetrain was tuned to act just like the Pentastar V6 it replaced with the same power and torque curve programed to it. I'd part with my hard earned money to have that.

My family had temporary lurching issues in our 97 ZJ 4.0L. The issue was a combo of a bad O2 sensor and a cracked header.

It appears to be all submodels but only 90-92, no black trucks appear before 90.

I purchased the RockAuto ones and was quite pleased. Maybe not a perfect fit but I didn't have any trouble installing them. They are 100 times better than the originals which were massively broken up with holes or just plan missing.

That is surprisingly close. Just short a sport bar. I've come to realize you don't come across too many black Comanches. I wonder if it was an Eliminator only color.

My understanding is one can cheat the Renix system into working by changing injector size and fuel pressure to recenter the fuel demands of the engine. The spark curves shouldn't need to change, plus the knock sensor does a great job taking care of that. As stated by ghetdjc320 the Renix system really isn't tuneable except for piggybacking and modifying inputs to the system. You can certainly make a stroker work on Renix, but it won't necessarily be optimized. That said it is probably a great starting point and pretty close unless you do a standalone tune and have it professionally tuned to hone it in the last bit. The Renix system uses the O2 sensor and knock sensor to retune as it runs, but it can only go so far, at that point you have to start playing with things like injector sizing and fuel pressures. There is information out there on the topic.

Our of curiosity, what makes you say the short shift kit for the AX-15 is a must have?

Just some random pics, got it pretty muddy working in the field, mud season is my least favorite time.