Incommando

Once you lift the front and the trans is back in the proper relationship than it will probably correct if the perches on the 8.25 are welded on correctly. If it was me I would be sure to jack up the front end to where it will end up before measuring rear pinion angle and welding on the perches to get the right angles for the end product.

So you want to lift the rear 5-6" and leave the front at stock height? Do you have any idea how that looks? To answer your question you would have to account for the difference in angle from the output shaft to the pinion. To run a stock style shaft the two must be as close to equal as possible. By only lifting the rear you are changing the output angle by tilting the rear of the tranny upwards but leaving the pinion angle the same. To make the pinion match the output if you did just lift the rear that much you would have to point the pinion toward the ground more. I have no idea if those angles would be too great to overcome.

Alexia they may fit but they are not right for all of those years he listed them for are they? Maybe you just didn't realize that they were not all the same. Re-read the main point of my original post where I say that you can slap them on any MJ but that does not mean that they are correct: "Seller claims they are for '87-'92. He is wrong or being deliberately misleading to increase sales as although you can slap them on they are in no way correct for all years. I also noted that he makes no distinction for SWB or LWB." Listing a stripe set for years that it is not correct for is disingenuous. A stripe kit from a '77 Firebird Skybird will physically fit on a '79 Firebird Trans Am but you shouldn't sell a Skybird set as being for a T/A. Right? dainternetguy may have it right and that the guy may not realize he is listing the kit incorrectly. dainternetguy got the same take that I did...that the stripes are not the same for all of the years listed...so did his post contributed to the aforementioned melting? :rotfl2: I think if you really read the ad you will see that what he is calling extensions are the stripes for the front fenders yes? Do you see how he refers to the taper of the extensions? STRIPE KIT COMES COMPLETE WITH STRIPE EXTENSIONS THAT TAPER AS THEY EXTEND TO THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE.. JUST LIKE OEM! They only part of the stripes that taper down are on the front fenders & doors yes? If the "extensions" taper and the only taper is on the fenders & doors then tapered extension do nothing for the length difference that is in the bed length .... Yes? Because the fenders & doors are the same from lwb to swb yes? Nowhere does he mention lwb or swb and that is quite an oversight. Even if one does ignore the actual shape of the stripes and winds up with the same meaning from the word "extension" as you do does it really make sense for him to use your take on "extensions" where you seemingly have to piece in more tape, apparently on the bed where the length changes, to "extend" a SWB set then to make a LWB kit that you only have to cut down for the SWB? Seriously? Of course you would not. So why would you call such an easier kit "extensions?" Sorry about the brain melt. It must have been close to melting anyway for my post to cause it though :)

As long as you stick with a good brand you are OK. Avoid the cheap McParts house ones unless you want to do this again in 12 months

Is it maybe in low range? The lowest axle gearing possible is 4.88 and that really isn't enough to cause all of that

Maybe your motor is way down on power or something else is wrong like gear ratio. These trucks were actually known for being pretty peppy for their time period if they had the 4.0.

Seller claims they are for '87-'92. He is wrong or being deliberately misleading to increase sales as although you can slap them on they are in no way correct for all years. I also noted that he makes no distinction for SWB or LWB. I am leery of doing business with people who make ads like that. Ignorance or deception? Either way...

Looking at the member map as it exists today would put the most convenient place for a meet by # of members in the Kentucky area as well. here is another place that is popular: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mud-Madness/148910518620973

Short add a leafs have a bad rep especially if they are for a moderate or better amount of lift. It seems they do not naturally conform to the original spring packs well enough and that they place the pressure points for the lift in the wrong places on the original spring pack. Just something for someone looking to use short AAL's to maybe research before doing so.

You could also just do an off the shelf add-a-leaf or any of the other ways to increase load capacity such as overload shocks. There would be no way to know what the end load capacity would be but I am pretty sure that is also true with aftermarket complete spring packs or with a custom add-a-leaf as you are asking about.

As stated above all D44's are not created equal and the WJ D44A is less desirable than most.

After my conversion my 4wd lights do not function even though all of the electrical connections matched up. I have not found it to hard to remember when I was in 4x4 and a quick glance at the shifter position is a visual confirmation. My '88 had a 231 transfer case.. I am not real sure if a 208 would have been factory in an 88 XJ

You cannot run a traditional part-time transfer case like the 207/231 that came in our MJ's on dry pavement. It puts the case in a bind when you turn. You can do this with an all wheel drive or "full time" case as they are designed for internal slippage to compensate. You really should google up some basic 4wd info and read up on it as it will probably help you in the long run.

Soooo...if you have the truck and the shaft removing 4 8mm bolts would allow you to test fit the shaft....

Here we go again....

I use Aussie's but if I was not cheap I would use the Richmond no-slip. In my experience it is easily the smoothest of the drop-in lockers. Not sure if they have a M20 version though. EDIT: 12/06/14 after a few months and a couple of thousand miles I am very happy with new design of Aussie. It is smoother than the old style Aussie (now Lokka) and as quiet as any drop-in I have been around. We have already had ice, freezing rain, and about a 6" snowfall. The Aussie has been as invisible as an LSD unless you get on it hard.

That is also the pump listed for an HO as well but some listings state it is just to replace a factory Bosch wit a different one being needed for the factory walbro and some list this kit as a universal replacement

I installed one of those four years ago and it's still going strong. Get it here, $67.55 shipped: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69302-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000BZICYU/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=Cherokee%7C347&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Jeep%7C42&Year=1991%7C1991&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=002: So it looks like that kit will replace either brand of OEM pump? That kit is now only $61 shipped but like most of us I have no idea which pump I have on my '91 HO...Grrr.... The CPS did not fix my hot stall problem. Still no codes. I have noticed that when it stalls it will re-fire but I hear the fuel pump running while it is cranking but before it re-fires. As I am instantly popping the truck into neutral and hitting the key I am thinking that the truck should not be losing its prime that fast?

Going to leaf springs in the front is not uncommon when going to better axles in an MJ or XJ. Plenty of write-ups out there on it. But that is a hack job deluxe. People think Red Green is a joke but...

Anything you can find about welded diffs will aoply except the longevity. Never used one in a jeep but in a drag car they tend to break carriers/etc.. . As they seem to be a bit "sloppy" and that makes them a tad harsher & the slop cause drive line shock.

Even "top end" buggies are going away from it. But to each his own.

Why? Even if you can that doesn't mean that you should. Rockwells are very heavy. So heavy, in fact, that the added unsprung weight would probably rip the unibody and maybe even the folded sheet metal rear frame to pieces especially by the time that you hung tires/wheels on it big enough to warrant Rockwells. 4-wheel steering has largely been dismissed as a yee-haw gimmick. Few use it and fewer still use it correctly. With the low weight of an MJ you can get by with even a good 44/60combo for most anything that you would want to do with one unless what you want is to be the king of the trailer park with a bunch "gee whiz Earl" gimmicks on a truck that you can't do anything with.

6.5" will require adjustable control arms & track bar for starters.

Depends on what the 8.8 is out of