Car RamRod

:rotf:

an aftermarket tach install is not hard at all. It doesn't look nearly as nice as a stock cluster, but it's a cheaper and less time consuming option.

I feel cozier just looking at it.... cool stuff.

I agree. I was gonna mess with that, but decided it wasn't worth the effort; my front speakers are really plenty.

Well as usual I changed my mind and went overboard, in this case.... the springs. I took the three leaves (no helper spring) from the old pack and integrated them into the new (to me) pack. It's not done, in that I need to get longer U-Bolts, and I need to bend new clamps that wrap around the leaves, but I sat her down and got exactly 3" of lift. The truck sits just how I want now, and isn't overly stiff either. I hope it doesnt settle too much. Here's a few pics: The drawing board: Image Not Found I cut to old spring halfway around the bushing eye to get a cup underneath the main leaf, so all the weight isn't on the top leaf. Image Not Found Blurry picture of the new stance (2" spacers in front) Image Not Found I'll update when I finalize the setup, and drive it. Matt

I really just mentioned the change in spring packs because the ones coming out likely have some sag in them.

I'm in the process of doing a small budget lift to my truck. I used 2" spacers in the front, and now its time to go to the back. I want to be just a tad higher in the back as well. I'm gonna be making a bastard pack of leaves from two manch packs (really just cutting the ends off the old main spring and adding it to the new set). After this, I'm gonna make a set of shackles to achieve the ride height I want. I just need a basic idea of what length does what to the lift of a truck. Thankyou.

I have two sets of wheels/tires so changing the wheels isn't an option. And my reason for getting spacers (besides looking better) is that I rub the inner fenders under load.

A common t56 has a final drive of .62. For comparison, a regual t5 has a .68. There are exceptions (viper spec t56 is .5, and so on). And like I stated in my last post, first gear is not as agressive in a t56 as in most 5 speeds.

I have 3.55s behind my 4.0/5 speed and like them. Plenty of power and plenty of gear. I pulled a fedex truck out of snow the other day in 1st.

I almost feel bad making a thread about this, but I can't get my answer in any searched articles. Anyways, I have a ford 8.8 in the back of my truck and I need wheel spacers for it. Where can I buy a good set for a decent price? Thanks

I agree. I hate to dog someones project but a 4cyl likely won't have the power to turn the low 1st gear or low 6th gear (2nd OD) of most t56s. I mean of course it will work, but it'll be a total dog. I'm running a 4.0/5 speed combo and love it. Even if I could get a magical 6th gear for free, I'd have no use for it. I'm at optimal cruising rpm at 65-70. And 1st gear is just right as well. I run a t56 in my stang and even there it's really not neccessary, I just like being able to run a taller gear, and its also a strong trans. Just somethin to think about (and save alot of money on).

I'm not sure if a t56 will bolt to a t-5 housing.

A few weeks ago when in Maryland I got an omlet at an ihop. I forgot what it was called, but it had a ton of bacon and cheddar cheese infused into it. Most aggressive omlet I've ever had.

A few weeks ago when in Maryland I got an omlet at an ihop. I forgot what it was called, but it had a ton of bacon and cheddar cheese infused into it. Most aggressive omlet I've ever had.

Priceless line.

Priceless line.

The newest saw I have is an 18" crafsman. For a year or two it was finniky on starting, till finally it wouldn't start. I reverse the primer bulb and its been great ever since. It's a good saw for how I use it (firewood and such), but if I used a chainsaw more than 15 times a year, I'd probably go for something better/bigger.

The newest saw I have is an 18" crafsman. For a year or two it was finniky on starting, till finally it wouldn't start. I reverse the primer bulb and its been great ever since. It's a good saw for how I use it (firewood and such), but if I used a chainsaw more than 15 times a year, I'd probably go for something better/bigger.

I saw 1.99 for the first time here last weekend. I got regular for 1.55 in jersey on sunday though. Having started driving in 05, this is the cheapest I've ever paid for gas.

700r4's are good trannys (Ive got one near 185k and it's mint), but a common 2.8l v6 is gonna struggle in front of the extra rotating mass of the trans.

What kind of jeeper would I be if I didn't help? I'll hop on my desktop pc tomorrow and see what I have for pics. Edit: I'm not sure if you can view my photobucket through this link, but if you can, feel free to dig through my jeep pictures.

I use a hypertherm powermax, I forget the number though. My father bought it 8-10 years ago. Doesn't get used everyday, but we've used it a fair amount and really havent had any problems. I used a miller where I used to work. I forget the model though (haven't worked there in a while). It was pretty solid. I'd stand behind anything miller makes.... I have a handful of miller welding machines.

This is a good point, and 100% correct. Mine didn't take long to do, but I also have a plasma cutter and a welder so that made life alot easier. Don't let my post mislead you..... it was ALOT of work. I transfered a 4.0/5speed into a formerly carbed/auto truck, along with the full 4.0 harness and a whole interior swap. It took me roughly a month of a few nights a week and an occasional saturday. But like I said earlier, I took my time and did it right, and now I'm

My 86 had burgandy when I got it, but I found a donor 87 with a complete black interior, so thats what I have now. I never finished it though (really just headliner) so I never took pics. I will soon though.