Car RamRod

I can't say I've ever heard someone complain about the 300 i6's torque output. Those had some balls.

Picked up the front hoses for a 95 wrangler non-abs. They worked fine. The dakota hose was out of stock so that will wait for now. Should I get the dakota hose for a 4x4 truck or anything else specific? Thanks for the help!

I made my rear bumper when I got the truck in 2005 since the factory bumper was rotten. I made the front probably the next year mainly for a better bumper with tow hooks (and to look cool of course). The rear was real simple: The front was a little more work. I angled the sides in, and welded hooks underneath. I have receiver tube mounted in the tube (hidden under the plate). I just drilled/tapped two 1/4x20 holes so it takes all of 20 seconds to take off the plate and use the hitch. Hope that helps you out.

I don't recall 100%, but I think I pulled the diff to make it easier to drive the seals out and in. It's not really a big deal.

Thanks guys, I wasn't sure about the years thing. And yea, I only have a small lift so replacing my worn out hoses will give me enough length as it is, so I won't even have to worry about relocating the hard line.

I have a 3" lift on my truck that pushes the limits of the stock hoses. The hoses themselves also happen to be rotten, so I want to replace with extended lines. So whats the story for the front, wrangler lines are supposed to be longer? And what year should I be using? It seems like a dakota hose in the rear is appropriate as well, what year truck should I order that for? Thanks for the help. Matt

Yes it's outside of the fork. Hence the fork is lubricated (when you open it oil comes out).

Ok here's my few pictures. As always I mean to update my threads but I was so agitated by this one that I forgot to. One of the seals was a real PITA to find the right one. I tried all the seals offered by my commercial parts warehouse, and the aforementioned NAPA seal. They were all wrong. I pulled a number off of Autozone's website, cross-referenced and got it from my local guy. Bingo. Again, I think my truck being an 86 was the issue. What a headache this was. Here's the numbers and what they look like: Seal driver: Primed: Painted: I hope this helps people in the future, I know I was going nuts.

My god, I can't believe this was a year ago. I jumped through a million hoops and finally got the right parts. I'll dig up the numbers that worked for me. IIRC, I needed seals specific to the 1986 model year.

Awesome guys, thanks for the quick replies.

Having a problem tracking down the trans mount for my truck. Picked up an a2625 (it's what everyone lists), and it doesn't line up. My ba-10 has 4 mounting bolts and the exhaust hanger, the 2625 only has two bolts. (87 ba-10, 4wd truck) Also, the t-case linkage in my truck has rubber grommets in the joints that are falling apart. Anyone know a replacement or solution for this? Thanks

substitute the 1500 for a paycheck, take a week off and paint the damn thing. sure does need it.

I'll do that as well. I'm going to be working tomorrow, but maybe tomorrow night I'll get to it. Thanks!

Awesome, will do this weekend. Thanks!

I have an issue with my truck that started a week or two ago. It's totally random, but sometimes when I start it, it idles very roughly like it has a misfire. After a little driving it cleans right up and runs beautiful. Renix controlled 4.0. Any thoughts?

No. Avoid the 2.8 like the plague.

My 86 had a red (maroon?) interior when I got it. I swapped it over to a black interior out of an 87 parts truck I picked up. I wouldn't have thought it was rare at all, unlike the black.

You know what I meant by locks you in 4wd. As for leaving it year round, I do 99% street driving, and a lot of it. So as far as I'm concerned, anything I can do to limit wear on the toothpick d30 is worth the 5 minute flip.

Last winter I had some cable stretch issues on my pto cable-controlled CAD setup, and when trying to adjust it my dumb :mad: ss ended up snapping the shift fork. In a pinch with big time snow outside I made up this simple plate with a fork welded on: Locks you in 4wd. If you want 2wd, just remove it and rotate it half a turn. Not the prettiest thing, but very simple and effective, so I figured I would post it just in case someone is searching for a quick solution in the future.

Finally installed an pneumatic switch for my cad Changed thermostat Made a crank handle for spare tire winch A rare day off for me.... no work, no side work, but I still didn't get enough done :nuts:

Ok I finally installed my air switch. Everything seems to be working great. Here's a few pics: I had planned to install a vacuum gauge also, but I started getting agitated with the cheap autometer line getting pinched, and then it didn't fit well on the other side of the column from where the toggle is so I left it out. I'm going to get a smaller vacuum gauge and a ballast tank and install them when I get a chance.

I'm hoping to install my setup tomorrow. Has anyone else gone through with it?

Rock auto had a hose for my truck, made by Dorman. $20 well spent. I had been searching around and that was the only option I saw. Make sure to post if you find a SS option.

Summit should list if the inlet/outlet is ID or OD. Figure out what your pipes are an adapt accordingly. I'm not wild about band clamps in a butt-joint setup; the front-rear stress bothers me..... though I'm sure it's not a problem. However band clamps in a lap-joint are the tits.

Good post. Let me add to it: When removing something flush, like a snapped bolt or a countersunk screw like that, sometimes it's best to weld a washer onto said bolt, so you get a good weld in the center of it (in the open part of the washer). Then weld whatever size nut you want onto the washer and crank away. I also like to give things a good whack on the head with a hammer just to shock it a bit.