silvertwinkiehobo

Getting this, and the Jeep zip file, have been a boon to Maveric and I, attempting to make freshly-installed options work in his rig.

Wellllll...some are just 2WD, but there are 4WD ones that haven't seen a lick o' dirt road, let alone cross-terrain driving, in their lives. Only the hardcore owners take their rigs' on 4-by trips or jump stumps.

BTW, your rig is an excellent example of real ownership. Just be glad, however, that you didn't end up where it's humid. Believe me when I say that wind blowing around does not help all that much....

Hey, JeepNut, USS Paul F. Foster--were you in Battlegroup Delta, serving USS Constellation CV-64? I was on Connie, came back from deployment June 1st, 1989. I'm almost sure you were in BG Delta, but I'd have to check my cruisebook to confirm.

The book was written by the engineers at the #4 automaker. SAE standard is 20 PSI hot idle and 5-7 pounds, IIRC, for each 1000 RPM minimum. And I agree, check the pressure with a gauge at the sender port. Also, the filter housing could have an o-ring problem. When you go to change that filter (Yeah, Fram ain't what it used to be), go ahead and plan to replace the square ring and hollow bolt O-rings, in case one or both have fallen apart/cracked or whatever happened. Better yet, find the Chrysler unit on a later-model engine and install it, so you don't have to chase down filters for AMC Jeeps with the metric threads. The Chrysler filter has SAE threads and are much more common to find. Anyway, good luck on getting this sussed out, as your engine needs its life blood to flow and be up to pressure.

If you go to your friendly neighborhood parts store, you can get a later-model XJ rad, aluminum with plastic tanks, and it'll definitely have the bung down below. Thank you, whomever decided to carry fewer SKU's.

Another place to mount it would be the dash, where the XJ rear washer switch is located. Now, if you have fog lights, I don't know if there's enough room, but if not, simply center it.

The inverse logic is correct. If you have a failure mode, in this case, you want the fan ON, not OFF, if it fails. And doing so on the ground side makes the relay last a lot longer, because it minimizes the induction arc from the motor start-up as the contacts close on relay de-energizing.

If you think it looks good in the pic, you ought to see it in person. We also have a matching dash bezel we'll install once all the in-dash work's done.

I've gone down stainless steel slides on military housing playgrounds that, on a hot day, felt like sliding over one of those. On a similar note, I rode down the aforementioned slide on my Mighty Tonka Yellow Dump Truck. Broke all four wheels on landing.

Mmmm, headed to Wrench-a-Part Austin, got a replacement steering shaft (the rubber in the old one's breaking down), and scored a wiring harness and control module for Cruise Control. We just need the servo assembly (that one was rodent-chewed) and the brake and clutch pedal switches. The rest is plug and play. Speaking of which, Joe ordered parts from another member, and his rig now has headlight delay.

Not meaningless to me. Unless a belt system has a spring-loaded tensioner, you have to use the older method, which is easier with a gauge, but if you don't have one, this method (taught to me by a former boss) does work well. It's how I instructed Maveric to tension his, and no problems so far. Just because it doesn't mean anything to you, does not mean it doesn't work.

Yeah, even a new unit can be bad from the box. Get RA to replace it. Then, when installing the belt, if it's the old-style tensioner, the segment from the pump pulley to the P/S pulley should not have more than 1/2" downward deflection, and should be 1/4-1/2" deflection.

*DUN DUN DUNNNNN*

I may be ex-Navy, but that's disgusting! I saw a VW Passat in Battleship Grey, and it looks like it should say "USN" and have a serial number under it.

Rock it back and forth, side to side. Unless your rig was a salt baby, it will eventually rock its way off. Also, when you deal with removing this fan, undo but do not remove the fan shroud, and slide a sheet of cardboard in between the rad and shroud. Trying to remove the shroud before the fan can result in rad tube damage. Maveric and I ran into that, lost the replacement rad we dropped in.

Never go by visual on any fuse, ohms test only. And make sure the blades are clean. Then, use a 12 volt test light to verify you have power before and after the fuse, not on the fuse itself.

Is this the GM design with the cable clipped to the shift collar?

Two vehicles I didn't see listed are the late '90s Explorer and Mountaineer 5.0's; the injectors are the skinny 4-holers, and they're the same as the ones on the Modular engines.

That's YOOGE.

Torq-Thrusts...on an MJ? Wooooow......

Does the rear door flop down? Or do you have to prop it? There are other ways to get height in a school bus body.

And the engine, the trans, the diff, the bearings, the....

I'd like to know, insofar as larger tires, airing said tires down for soft terrain offroading, what's the comparison between the original MJ box vs. the ZJ box? Of course, these will all be opinions, and will be considered as such.

Ah, cool. Write-up and pics, of course!