silvertwinkiehobo

I'm posting to "bump" this thread, as I consider the contact info to be important. Maveric and I are installing a set of Ford Explorer 5.0L injectors, Bosch #710, 19#/he stock flow rate, just to see how his 4.0 will run with them. If it likes them, we'll eventually order a new set, down the road.

I'm posting to "bump" this thread, as I consider the contact info to be important. Maveric and I are installing a set of Ford Explorer 5.0L injectors, 19#/he stock flow rate, just to see how his 4.0 will run with them. If it likes them, we'll eventually order a new set, down the road.

When Maveric and I changed his system to remove the expansion tank, we did have air purge problems, even though I added coolant through the heater hose connections, my usual trick on 4.0's. But after, IIRC, three cold-hot-cold cycles, it had purged most trapped air. Just make sure to change the radiator, heater control valve and hoses and add an expansion tank, but more to the point, ensure the radiator you get has both a neck and a bung for the electric fan switch. The expansion tank we are using is one of those cheap square ones you can buy aftermarket, and the radiator cap is 15(?) pounds.

They're plastic, so Meguiars has a formulation for that, which IIRC is polycarbonate.

Just how much does that cost? And I assume you can't get it at any United Schwinn Cyclery?

Minuit, you remind me of my time in USS Constellation's test equipment lab. I'd only been there six months, mostly humping 1950's/1960's era rack equipment up, down, fore, aft and amidships both ways. But I had good times in there, actually got to do some righteous diagnosis and repair. So, because the Navy gave me training, I will make the first contribution by posting a nice relational representation of Ohm's Law:

That info there is Unobtainium.

You lucky sonofagun....

The buckets, were they from one of the MJs?

Before I moved to Texas, a cross-alley neighbor surprised me when he had his MB out and about, a 1943 model built by Willys. He had a bunch of gear for it including a working Garand in the rifle bracket on the backside of the windshield frame, spare, gas can, tools a (non-working) radio set and the canopy top with bows.

In actuality, for all of the diffs we use, as long as the level is within one inch of the fill hole, it's full, as the fluid needs expansion room. Also a good reason to make sure your axle vents are not blocked and the hoses go all the way underhood and are not cracked anywhere along its length. To check the level, take a zippy tie, bend the flat end so that it's 90° and one inch. Insert into the hole and hold horizontally at the bottom of the hole for the reading. No fluid on the end, add fluid. If the fluid is very dark or has water mixed in, service it immediately. Don't forget friction modifier if it has an LS diff.

This was a thread in the Ranchero forum, and on it I posted this album, because drummer Jamie Oldaker just passed away last week. Eric Clapton stated that Oldaker is the direct reason why he kicked heroin and got back into playing and songwriting, for this album:

This is Shea, the most chill, welcoming cat I've ever met, and I've been around A LOT of cats in my life. He's not a stray, but he roams all over the neighborhood:

This is Bucky, and yes, I named him after the annoying Siamese in the comic 'Get Fuzzy:'

No. 'fiber optics' is flexible plastic tubing lined with gaseous glass, then collapsed and drawn into a wire. When I was in high school, my grandpa always gave me a year's subscription to NatGeo magazine; this very subject was a favorite article I once had. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_fiber

Jimmy the School Helo....

Aaaand how big was the truck that this happened to?

The speed sensor and the two sections of cable can be detached from each other; Maveric and I had to do this, to replace the upper part that attaches to the speedo head, and the sensor itself, for which someone had yanked the wires out of. But I'm glad this was posted, because I didn't see a Weatherpak single-wire connector in the harness I pulled. Doesn't mean it isn't there, it just means I'll have to look for it.

There are cheap auto versions of those, they last about two to twelve uses (I think I got one to do 8 or 9 services before it went bad), but having a pump like that really does help sometimes.

I'm not surprised at how much this sucks, nor how much Bondo was used on the pillar. I'm betting the crappy welding heat warped the metal. But, couldn't another, better, roof and pillars be pro-welded on, to replace that roof?

Bear in mind, this was a full-on restoration, not a hardly-touched unicorn. So someone (or multiple someone's) certainly got their use and enjoyment from this car. It may never be your 'cup of tea,' but I see the next-level restoration effort the man made to this car. It is a museum piece, and deserves to not be driven around as a DD anymore.

It's Maveric you should thank, as he's the one who told me how they go. I would've only been half right. But I'll pass your thanks along.

Essentially, Maveric says both supports are on the left side of the column, on the stud that holds up the column; the column support goes over the stud, then the long one goes on, and reaches from the stud to a point next to the fuse block; the short one is last and goes over to a point on the left end of the dash.

Linky?

Such as it will be. I'll be watching from South Texas, and interested to see how things will shake out in Seattle sports.