silvertwinkiehobo

Lemme see if I can find it. I'll get back to you. Thank you.

Okay, but I'm unable to that now, so if I haven't done it, just go ahead and delete them. Thank you!

Somehow, I may have got on the wrong thread? I was putting in my two cents on DMMs, but thought I was on another thread, not this one. So, since I can't seem to find a delete function, could a mod delete this, and I'll try to find the proper thread later? And, of course, delete this at the same time?

That could be a 'headed' pin, looks like a square drive? You at least should try to see if it'll turn before trying to tap it out. But, after a second look, I think I see a split along the side, at the 2:00 position.

Don't forget to prime the pump; I use some kind of honey oil, like Hy-Per-Lube to prime it. I add enough to fill the top of the pump, then turn it backward for the gerotors to suck in the oil. Also, while down there, rotate the crank, look carefully for any indications of any damage on the rotating assembly.

I'll have to look at Maveric's but I'm sure it's vacuum.

The e-fan is stock either way. Maveric's 88 MT has one, along with every other MJ/XJ I've encountered. The question of an aux trans cooler in the Metric Ton (since it has an auto) is a different story. But swapping the '88s goodies to the newer one would be the way to go.

No ice cream scoops in that, huh?

Well yeah, when you drown three scoops of ice cream in it....

Sorry, no photo, but a redux of an old joke: " I have bad news and good news. The bad news is we're being invaded by outer-space aliens. The good news is they eat all politicians and pee gasoline."

$357 for this? You can kiss my credenza, as Dad used to say: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-52028339ab?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvvj5BRDkARIsAGD9vlLB5xNMX3pMImV87VrNXRDW8cY-NboYZwC_vb182pKG8n8uoTfYSQwaApdqEALw_wcB

Got another question: I'm not familiar with Jeep particulars, and even with the part number above, I don't know which model year XJs were offered in RHD. What years were they offered, and offered with the 4.0L?

I'm glad I found this, as I have a SPAL controller, and with the A/C install on Maveric's rig, I want to convert to dual electric fans. Now I'll have to go on a quest for an RHD fan, even if I only find an intact shroud; I can always snag a motor and fan wheel from the J/Y if necessary. But I have one question: the OP's rig was a '92; were those already converted to the ECT in the t-stat housing, and the fan relay controlled directly by the ECU? Is that why he tried a fan controller switch for a Peugeot?

39-40 PSI with no vacuum. On Ford, it's a 10 pound difference with vs. without vacuum, and Chrysler is 9 PSI. As for injectors, I am incorrect about the 4-hole injectors; the 5.0 and 4.6 19# injectors are '710' last three digits, and the Ford 4.0 V6 19# ones, IIRC, are '739' last three digits.

My '96 F150 is a S#!tbox, literally...just about no frills. Gauges but no tach, 5.0 auto, map lights, and maybe trailer towing, but I need to look up what the '92-early '97 trucks had for accomplishing that. As opposed to my late dad's '90 XLT, which has all kinds of the geegaws they offered in '90, including trailer towing, and TBH, having power windows is nice, because the A/C and door locks are kaput.

Oh, that's nice.... Not.

If it blew exhaust, you have an exhaust leak, and you don't want the engine ingesting that air when cold. Remove the box end, and start it cold but don't drive it. If it cold idles better, it may be ingesting exhaust at cold idle.

A good system drops air temp at the central air vent about 40 degrees from ambient,, when the doors are open and the control is on maximum. If you have some cooling, but not what you should have, I'd think the system is over-oiled. Sometimes, that can happen. One tech does one thing, adds oil but doesn't tell anyone, the next tech adds more, not knowing it's already been done. Or, a compressor comes pre-oiled and someone adds more. Another thing to check is if the compressor had oil added to it but not cycled through by manually turning the clutch plate and shaft. I usually install the freshly oiled compressor, hook up the lines, then hand-turn the clutch plate to run the oil through the cylinders and out to the discharge line.

You say the pressures are not in spec, but did you have any cooling at all? And, is the system set for R134a?

Maverick and I just did a brake bleed, so as to change the fluid, and ensure the system didn't have any hydraulic problems. So we did a rear shoe adjustment, almost needed none since the adjustment back in February, which leads me to believe it wasn't doing much back there. Then, from right rear through to left front, we bled the system. After that, we loaded me (380 pounds) and the boys in the back, Mrs. Maveric at the pedal, and Maverick under the truck, to re-bleed the rears, in order to have the prop valve arm held up. By doing that, Maveric found the brakes much more effective with less pedal stiffness, and dynamiting the brakes still caused the rears to slide with no load in the back. So, bleed your hydraulics, make sure your pedal free travel is within spec (likely 1/2-1" travel), and good fresh fluid.

It's been a loooong while since I had a Piminger, had a friend of a friend bringing cases of them back, because he was a C141/C17 driver out of McChord AFB. Last time I had a Guiness, my dad and I had Black and Tans with Harp beer. Quite delicious. I may have to do that on a payday soon.

My friend Kyle dropped a 12 valve into a '73 Ford; yeah, it's tight, yeah, you have to play with the locations and routing, but it is doable.

I found this at the local junkyard.

Modern diesel conversion, V8 or not. A 6bt would fit nicely, even if it were only a 12-valve. That M715 is really nice.