silvertwinkiehobo

I did that once with a C6; I had secured the converter, but some dipstick forgot to put the dipstick tube back in after separating engine and trans. My poor Ranchero was bleeding Type F for several miles from sloshing back and forth....

An AM oldies station. I replaced the control head, for better sound reproduction, and found out I had a blown door speaker. Got it replaced, and it sounds tons better! The station? AM 860 KONO in San Antonio, TX.

Got it all installed, hooked up, and found out the relay was dead. Plugged a replacement one in, and the lights worked.

Damn. What a gyp and a waste, making you buy the entire mast if the damned cable breaks or the element is bent. I appreciate your rapid response, though.

Yes, thank you. That has exactly the correct wiring setup and wire colors. That, is what every owner needs. So once again, thank you.

Yeah, you have to be careful about that. When installing a replacement anything (especially on AMC vehicles, where 'mix and match' was the parts department motto), you need to set old and new side-by-side and compare them. You might've caught the error before installation, and had the new terminal crimped on, because electricity is weird--it does what it wants to, when not contained. That could've resulted in damage to your electrical system. Years ago, I worked on a Wrangler that the owner put the wrong group battery in (he was trying to save money), and even though the battery was the same size physically, the posts were reversed, and when he hooked it up, he fried a few things, namely the SBEC, because he didn't notice the reversed terminals (they are, after all, different sizes). So you were very fortunate you didn't cause any damage, and I'm glad your rig is back up and running. But please, compare and pay attention when dealing with your electricals.

Ah, SOB. This was NOT the section I wanted this in!!!! I have no idea how this was chosen, as I chose the tech section!!!! Would a Moderator please move this thread to the tech section, please?

Joe (Maveric) and I scored a 1989 XJ power antenna mast, complete with relay and bracket (among other things that day), and the only problem with it is the mast is bent. I'm online searching for a replacement mast with drive cable and having zero luck. Every source i've looked at so far, under "1989 Cherokee power antenna mast," "1989 Cherokee power antenna element," "1989 Jeep obsolete parts," are just not yielding any direct results. I also checked the '1988 Jeep FSM' that I've downloaded for Joe's rig, and I didn't see any listing for the sound systems Jeep offered back then . Would anyone have any ideas about finding one, let alone the exploded parts drawing with legend, for us to rehab this?

After a couple days of cold low idle speed, Joe got a new IAC, installed it, and now she idles up on initial start, and has a better idle quality and speed, cold or hot. Cruiser, your instructions are a godsend, as I tried finding any info on the throttle body in Joe's factory XJ manual (AMC), and found very little. Joe's now floating the idea of A/C, as a recent freeway trip to San Antonio was quite loud and windy, but I had to bring him back to Planet Earth on all his and my other wheeled projects....🥵

Joe and his wife Ash, and myself, are 'homesteading,' to meet the problems that have arisen from the current pandemic, to include gardening, breeding butchering rabbits and basic canning. In addition, we've worked on the Comanche (which runs better now but may need an IAC), and my F150 (PO butchered the column wiring with relays, NO ignition switch).

If the starter is a permanent magnet motor, the magnets losing their gauss strength will cause slower cranking without a resulting rise in amperage, as opposed to winding-built motors (the big, heavy buggers), which cause a rise in amperage with a commensurate loss in torque due to partial loss of total field strength.

This ignition is not adjustable; to do so can cause mechanical engine damage, because the computer needs it with both ignition and injector timing.

So, went through Cruiser54's Renix page, and using the instructions he listed here, I fixed the sensor ground wiring, then made the throttle stop, TPS (WAAAAY the feck off, <450mv), and with the IAC disconnected, adjusted the idle air bleed a ways out to get the 850 RPMs (after the TPS adjustment, Idle was under 500 and barely idling) adjustments. So, we put a chrome front bumper on (see pics), gonna chase fuel and oil leaks, and may chase a possible rear axle bearing noise, which might just be the new tires anyway.

Never mind about the diagram, I finally found one. I'll try to remember to snap pics to post.

Thank you. I had thought it was an idle bypass adjustment screw, but I didn't want to find out I was wrong. I did a visual on the throttle plate (which we cleaned last Summer), and it appears to be not held open with carbon. So I'll follow your directions. BTW, earlier, while the truck was idling high at operating temperature, the exhaust smelled rich. A thought occured to me about a possible problem with the ECT, so I'll be rooting that out tomorrow. I'm going on the possibility the ECT is bad or the wiring is open, causing the computer to think it's always cold outside.

Maveric and I went to the J/Y today, we got the switch, but in order for me to build a harness (I'm not paying money for something I can build), I need the wiring diagram. The Chilton Online i have access to did not have any specific diagrams for any of the accessories. I could muddle through on finding the connectors, but if anyone can help or point me in the correct direction on here, Joe and I'd be most appreciative.

I just downloaded a couple diagrams from Chilton Library online (through my local library), so I'm just gonna post them here for you to use at your leisure. They're .pdf files, so if you have trouble with them, download the latest Adobe Acrobat reader; if you still have trouble with them, let me know at silvertwinkiehobo@gmail.com. 91076b21.pdf 91076b23.pdf

I've posted in another thread on idle speed problems about the high idle issue, and just waiting for some answers, but we'll go ahead and clean the TB/IAC and readjust the TPS.

That's what we eventually did. Ran into a snag with the replacement radiator, though. Joe or myself put a big hole in two or three tubes. *sigh* On Monday, when we ran up to a junkyard North of Waco for parts from a Cougar for my Ranchero, he spotted a beautiful '93 Cherokee 2-door, and for all the high miles, it was clean and straight in and out. We grabbed the rad, expansion and washer bottles, bracket, heater control valve, and a few other minor bits and pieces. Got it installed, burped and he's driving it as we speak. We're going to wait till we can install the bracket and bottle to install this control valve and remove the reservoir bottle, piping and plate. We also dealt with a non-working speedo; it was something with the gear and housing below, but it now works.

No, not that one. The side of the throttle body, directly above the EGR valve. Problem I have is that this is only my other Renix Jeep I've dealt with, and the other one ran like a raped ape...until the owner threw a rod.... I'll go out, snap a pic.

So, Joe and I have fixed the cooling system leak by finding an aftermarket radiator in a junkyard north of Waco on I-35. Seriously, a '93 Cherokee 2-door, beautiful condition, 300+K on the odom, and it was clean underhood, appeared to be very well-maintained. However, the junkyard had been trying to sell it, and ended up yarding it. Well, we got the system burped and topped, no leakies, and Joe's been driving it. But one thing we've noticed is the idle quality--it fires and is around 1100 cold, but once warmed enough, it's around 950-1050 RPM. I've verified the vacuum routing, sprayed the throttle body and intake for leaks (none), and no driveability problems otherwise. Soooo, there is a screw in the throttle body side above the EGR valve, is that an idle bypass air adjusting screw? I can't find anything in Chilton Online, the Chilton book Joe has, nada, and don't want to monkey with it in case it's not.

He has his new tires, same as the old tires, the new drone same as the old drone....

Well, that makes sense, if you go by the assumption that it's stock. But, since Maveric was not the original owner, I'll ask him if he bought it from the orignal owner or not. And I'll tell him to jack it up after chocking the front axle, just in case it's an LS.

Soooo, We've done some diagnosis (me here in WA, Maveric in TX), and it is apparent the cable is good, the speedo head is good, and the coupling between the cable, speedometer adapter and driven gear is good and drives the speedo without any jumping. But when installed, the speedo jumps around a few times, then stops; I postulated the gear mesh is messed up somehow. But, Maveric is worried about speedo error, as he's getting new tires tomorrow (has 235/75/15s, and will be getting same size replacements). We want to use the correction chart on the Quadratec website, but he doesn't know his rear axle ratio. Where would that be found? Pumpkin tag? Body buck tag? I've worked on many, many Jeeps but I've never had to suss out pumpkin ratios.

I found the pics I shot, along with two of his big '70s Fords...the Mercury Colony Park (The Butterscotch Barge) and the LTD (The Lighter):